Dangerous Dave

[Dangerous Dave]

Sir Ph2t

is the charging circuit also in this PCB, or in the Tx?

[Dangerous Dave]

shhh… see previous thread 😉

[Dangerous Dave]

I’ve found some XMod Evo pcb’s, do they have a standard 3 wire servo output?

[Dangerous Dave]

another thread I missed from here..

http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14010&highlight=xMod

my Mini X is now in slot car mode with a Parma 16D motor in a butchered chassis. Yeah at 16V it goes ok, but not as much fun as RC.

[Dangerous Dave]

dave hows the minix coming?? is it going??

MiniX has been hacked and a slot car 16D motor crudely strapped for running on the local commercial slot car tracks. Will eventually buy another roller and convert back to RC, along with the necessary BB can … kitchen drift was just too much fun!

[Dangerous Dave]

I tinkered with my MiniX, and have been eyeing XMods ever since – someone save me!!

[Dangerous Dave]

both cars we got have major range issues, even with my mate’s higher end Tx.
He just de-cased a standard AM Rx to use instead.

Yep, 5 cell standard issue (700mAh).

motor bearings aren’t 2×5 either – I’ll just get a BB can to save the hassle.

Also, the soft body sold with these is not polycarbonate (Lexan), it’s just clear PVC. I know this cos I do my own vac forming with the same materials.
Most sellers/buyers wouldn’t know or care anyway.
For reference, polycarb is tougher, clearer and way more expensive..

[Dangerous Dave]

ta jb

yeah I’ve spotted the atomic bb can /mags 🙂

got the bearing set, but am only running as a 2WD using a slot car motor!! Awaiting a new 4WD motor and bb can..

Just for “fun”, I got an old 9.6V NiCd battery (AA cells!), hooked it up and taped it to the car. Was quite surprised that it went quite well, even with the extra weight. Speedy was barely warm. Rx still ok..
Now I’m getting silly ideas like 3s lipo packs hehe

Speaking of the Rx, they are CRAP, car loses signal even if ya turn your back on the car while it’s near you……

currently looking into XMod combined PCB’s…

[Dangerous Dave]

cheers rcs

yeah after a bit of reading I’ve figured out it’s just a 130 motor with extended shaft, so I’ll either get some 5x2mm bearings for the can, or a whole bb can…

[Dangerous Dave]

here’s the latest on my Mini X Files..

been through 2 motors now – they get pretty hot, but it’s not the arm windings that are failing. It’s the front motor bushing :s

seems having a pinion all the way out there (dual output motor) aint such a good idea, seems to be transmitting a fair radial load to the motor bushing and wearing it out prematurely.

That, or somehow it’s arcing on the bushing and eroding it…

At least the first motor failure was a good test for the speedy. The rotor had almost locked against the can, stalling it and drawing mega current from the 5 cell pack – enough to melt the battery holders and surrounding chassis. Speedy still works fine after this 🙂

Either way, need a bb can – who can tell me the overall dimensions of the standard Z motor cans, incl shaft diameter? The armature stack height and dia. would be even better.

Still waiting for the chassis bearing set to turn up.

I was running reversed A-arms all ’round, but have since returned the fronts to the stock config, due to the castor angle affecting the steering travel.

Other than that, it’s still not such a bad little car, but as mentioned before, if it was your first rc you’d be really p*ssed off if ya didn’t know how to repair it.

It drifts around nicely with taped up tyres with a bit of practice has reasonable control.

I’d still recommend getting an XMod RTR with AWD mod if ya can find one at a good price over these. But I find fun in making dodgy things work better than they ever should 😉

[Dangerous Dave]

I go by a rough rule for charge rate of 1 – 1.5 C (C is the cell capacity, ie 3300mAh.. so 1C is 3.3A).

discharge rates I don’t know much about, but leo’s numbers sound fine 🙂

[Dangerous Dave]

wow, interesting!! ta rcs …

[Dangerous Dave]

from my experience, I’ve found rcwart to have cheaper shipping than dumball.. but the item price may be cheaper.

now ya can compare anyway 🙂

rcs – do you think that drifting wears cars out any faster than racing?
I’d have thought that drift was easier on the car, as the wheels lose traction, in racing the full drive load is (hopefully) transferred all the way through to the ground.

I’d be interested to hear what you more experienced guys reckon 🙂

[Dangerous Dave]

if a Ferrari had a back seat, I’d swear some 1/28 people were misbehaving inside that car…

[Dangerous Dave]

thanks jb

I found a set specifically for the Mini X on rcwart..

that’s after checking ausmicro.net, woulda bought from Aaron if he had them 😉

[Dangerous Dave]

thanks jb and rcs 🙂

looking for the cheapest bearing upgrade.. might be worth getting an XMod set, plus the 8×12’s separately.

let’s see what ausmicro.net has 😉

[Dangerous Dave]

can you guys fill me in on the bearing sizes for MiniZ’s, Iwavers and XMods?

the Mini X uses four 8×12’s on the diffs, and six 3×6 for the axles…

[Dangerous Dave]

yeah true…. it’ll be a cold fusion powered one really….

but with something else noisy for the neighbours, like maybe a dog stapled to the roof…

[Dangerous Dave]

last I looked the chassis kit was US$16, plus US$12.50 postage from Dungball.. this is through ebay, cheaper than his RCMart site.

[Dangerous Dave]

so far so good!

as my kitchen is the only hard floor and pretty small, I went for the PVC taped wheels..

HELLO drift mobile !

motor still gets a bit hot, but holding out so far.

Am actually learning to rc drift properly 😮

The soft body is a big plus, less damage to car and/or furniture.
Have also added a foam bumper to the chassis front.

Reversed wishbones (for extended wheelbase) aren’t causing any problems either.

I dunno what an AWD MiniZ or XMod is like, but this is fun in a small space.

It will never be a bullet like some of you guys have, but it’s providing entertainment for now.

Still waiting for camera to get pics…

[Dangerous Dave]

I’ll build a NITRO MiniZ and ship it to you just for that occasion :p

[Dangerous Dave]

rcs, me ‘n’ a mate ended up getting the full chassis/electrics version, as we already had 27MHz AM radios.

took some time to sort the radio setup, but now it’s running fairly well.
Mate’s car had a split front pinion, so is 2WD only :s

definately needs bearings

suspension is uber hard

I modded mine into a long wheelbase version by reversing all 4 lower wishbones, to fit 1/24 Tamiya model kits.

I also threw small washers inside the front diff drive cups to prevent it spitting dogbones at full lock.

ball diffs seem to be a nice bit of gear

not too bad for the money, if ya got some knowledge/skills to sort out small problems.

Then again, a MicroT with Tx doesn’t cost much more..

pics to come when I get my camera back!

[Dangerous Dave]

if you guys are going to a hotter wind motor and having current draw probs, will a smaller pinion gear resolve some of this?

Needs to be done with 1/10 and 1/12 electric cars.. the hotter motors must be allowed to rev more to make the extra power.

[Dangerous Dave]

um, he mentioned something about diffs… but I musta got his post and yours confused lol sorry

send us a video of you guys wrestling over a trophy :p

[Dangerous Dave]

merc gets the prize 😉

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