jamiekulhanek

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 25 posts - 126 through 150 (of 2,484 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • in reply to: Savage .25 info please #57879
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    If your new to nitro, it’s a steep learning curve, there are many things you need to watch out for that do not apply to electric vehicles.

    -stuff shaking loose (engine for instance, which usually eats the spur)

    -Tuning engine, (easy when you know how, but can be quite challenging to newbies)

    I suggest getting a temperature gauge, I find mine an indispensible tool to check if your engine is within temperature parameters, too cold or too hot can cause premature wear and possibly terminal engine failures.

    Generally engines run at 220-240F, some run higher (270+) and until I got a temperature gauge I was running mine at 400F+ :blush::blush::blush:. Normal temp was 280-300F for my motor.

    Often you will hear nitro being high maintenence….heh….I disagree. Nitro motors last far longer between rebuilds than their electric counterparts. If you do everything right, you shouldn’t have any problems with the motor.

    If you treat the motor right, drain fuel after runs and run the motor dry, add after run, it should have a long service life, upto 10 gallons of fuel. Also It will be easier to start, sometimes if the piston im my motor is near TDC (Top Dead Centre), all it takes to start is just grab the pullstart…as in, not intentionally starting the engine :D.

    Yes the hobby will cost lots, but you can make it cheaper, by properly taking care of the vehicle, making sure rx and tx packs are fully charged, driving sensibly, even making your own fuel…hey, I do, and instead of paying $20+ for 1L of 30%, it costs just $11.

    Most of all, have fun, and watch out for WOT runnaways, usually you have no chance of catching the vehicle (hey, who can run 60+kmh?) before something much denser does :D:D…

    in reply to: ZZSE Duty Cycle mod #22956
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    I’m interested, my micro amps fet modded ZZSE just doesnt have enough power…

    in reply to: 1:1 scale bitcharg s #57846
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    I wanna see the Tx :smiley16:

    in reply to: 1:1 scale bitcharg’s #22950
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    I wanna see the Tx :smiley16:

    in reply to: i need a good rc charger #57834
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Dude check out this, its got more features than ma $600 charger…

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHDJ1&P=ML

    Its gotta be the bargain of the century, get it….you won’t regret it…

    in reply to: mmmm ummm, how??? #57789
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Search the web for a ‘truggy’ conversion, it is like a buggy with longer shocks, a arms, shock towers, truck wheels and tyres and a truck body.

    May I ask what kind of buggy you have?

    in reply to: …RC18T REVIEW… #57784
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    I find it sooo hard to believe that the 1/8 inferno parts are interchangeable…maybe the reciever and servos…

    in reply to: Xmod with iWaver guts conversion project…. #57775
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    yeah but rohan, any stupid dickhead with a screwdriver can buy a 1:18 and throw in a mamba etc. No skills required…

    in reply to: Heatsinking your mosfets on an iw02 chassis…. #57715
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563
    Quote:
    I only just noticed your pic Jamie and its the same heatsink as mine. Brilliant installation. I might have to mount mine like that. My motor doesn’t heat up half as much as the nelly does though. Atomic bb, plasma arm, neo mag. How did you attach it to your motor? Mine is crudely attached with rubber bands.

    Try running 6 cells or 2 lithium based cells and you will start to realise what heat is, though these heatsinks do a fantastic job of keeping the motors cool, I found that I got longer life out of the plasma dash’s.

    in reply to: Heatsinking your mosfets on an iw02 chassis…. #57714
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Yeah, the bracket that goes between the motor holder and the H plate needed a piece filed out so I could feed a zip tie through, i found it to be a very reliable way to mount it all together.

    Also i used the high mount for this mod…

    in reply to: big truck blokes… Monday 27th @ PARK ORCHARDS #57711
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Did you take your savage down wills?

    in reply to: new pics and video from the templestowe meet!!! #57698
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Just stay on the black stuff!

    in reply to: Heatsinking your mosfets on an iw02 chassis…. #57692
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    heres another idea I discovered.

    I used the high motor mount position and removed the rear window, the heatsink gets plenty of air and keeps the motor cool enough to touch, even on 6 cells with a plasma dash!

    The heatsink was about 50c at Dick Smith Electronics…

    Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 26 December 2004 23:05:11

    in reply to: MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYBODY !! #23460
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Mery Christmas ppl, hope you get lots of cool shit, and if you get socks and hankies, tell them all to go and get Fucked! 👿

    in reply to: big truck blokes… Monday 27th @ PARK ORCHARDS #57675
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Guys, all I can say is that it will be well worth it…

    in reply to: new pics and video from the templestowe meet!!! #57664
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    i noticed all youse boys were coming off the track on the first corner like I was with the 84km/h Z…..The xmod has brakes fer christs sake…my Z had no brakes, not even reverse!

    in reply to: my new i waver tx, i love it! #57663
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    I’m personally not too happy with my Tx…

    -ABS seems to do nothing

    -The trigger is shocking, i swear they chemically sharpened the edge of it!

    -LED is ridiculously bright so you can’t read the display too well..easy fixed though

    -Overall “feel” feels cheaper than a Kyosho Perfex

    in reply to: my new i waver tx, i love it! #57659
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    OMG just noticed that….LOL

    My TX is giving me the SHITS SHITS SHITTY SHITWORTHS as the ABS seems to do absolutely nothing different…….gay…

    in reply to: my new i waver tx, i love it! #57654
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    If it’s a 3 channel, and made by Futaba, it’s very similar to the Futaba 3PM…can’t wait to get mine!

    in reply to: FG Marder #57653
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    zenoahs are fantastic engines, most of those buggies use the G23ORC engines.

    I myself have a zenoah engine for my scooter, and the best part is that there are so many after market parts for these engines, big bore kits, stroker cranks, carburettors, tuned exhaust systems,..the list goes on forever!

    in reply to: IRF7317 mosfets from the shop, a little review…. #57638
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    I can install FETs for a small charge if you would like…

    in reply to: IRF7317 mosfets from the shop, a little review…. #57629
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Heres my tips,

    1). Build the FET stacks first, use a poly cement to hold them together.

    2). Carefully clamp them in a vice, but GENTLY, you only want them just being held.

    3). On the output side, carefully bend each pin down flat on the side of the stack, then tin all the output pins

    4). useing a couple of pieces of solder wick, lay them over the output pins and solder them on, this makes a nice big thick layer of metal which will have some heatsinking abilities.
    BE VERY CAREFUL YOU DO NOT OVERHEAT THE FETS, make sure you do not apply the iron for more than about 6 seconds when the fets are at room temperature.

    5). Flip the FET stack around, and bend all the input pins back as in step 3. Strip some copper wire at least 10cm long. Take one strand and lay it over each vertical row of input pins (top to bottom) and wrap it around the FET stack to hold. This will make it very hard to make a dry (non conductive) joint and will make the whole row of pins thicker and less resistive. Cut the excess wire wrapped around the stack off, check for bridged tracks…

    6). Finally, snip off the excess overhang of solder wick from the output side of the fets..

    It’s a good idea to lay 2 pieces of wire strand on the Vcc and GND pins, this will make them thicker and have less resistance again.

    in reply to: Best buy of 2004 #23481
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    best buy for me was my 1:10, $210 aussie dollars RTR……

    in reply to: ToyEast Group Buy! #23480
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    I hope mine comes soon….

    The last few things i’ve ordered haven’t turned up yet….dating back 2 months…

    in reply to: 15 min chargers in AUS!!! #23558
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563
    Quote:
    And your a almost 18 year old hot head toss, but a nice guy im sure, just have it out for me> most of the time

    BTW
    Did you not rip this of another site…

    Over priced Toy car which uses Over priced Cordless drill batteries with Over priced Toy Tires and a Over priced Body made out of old 2 litre milk bottles all for….a 5 dollar trophy once and awhile…..what a Hobby
    :angry::angry::angry::evil::evil:

    Yes i did borrow that sig, and i have stated in another thread that yes, it is not my work…

    So you go through life, just ignoring everything, being totally different to everybody else? Copying things here and there doesn’t hurt.

Viewing 25 posts - 126 through 150 (of 2,484 total)