jamiekulhanek
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Z-beam, 1/10 and 1/18 shocks have a piston with holes in it that moves up and down inside a cylinder or “shock body”. The piston is a reasonably tight fit in the shock body so to reduce friction u need Teflon impregnated shock bodies.
The piston in the shocks have holes in them to let the oil flow through, this dampens the spring action.
go back to your quiet mundane electric cars, this is for dirty smelly nitro cars!!
Only kidding bithed :D:smiley2:
Freeloader, the duratrax RTR kits are exceedingly good value, you even get little touches such as fuel bottle etc, and even a FREE NEWBIE DVD !!
my current quickest laptime on OSLO is 15.3 seconds. I started on the lowest power engine now i’m using the most powerful one, god damn tricky to keep it on the black stuff!
The street force comes with an air filter, but grab some air filter oil too.
Also get a fuel filter, they help a bit.
A good clip on glow starter is a good investment too. The twist-n-lock ones are crap.
A glow plug wrench and some spare glowplugs (such as O.S.#8)
After that its just upgrades and spares you will need…
Various things like a cross
http://64.224.183.129/videos/housejump.wmv
have a look at that….
The street force GP2 will hit 100km/h.
And lexan is the lightest, most durable material for car bodies. Most people are more interested in the performance of a car rather than intricate detail, if all you are worried about is looks, then you’re going for the wrong type of vehicle IMO.
As for other bodies on the SF2 who knows…
Well again, for your application, the fastest, coolest, most jam-packed value for money car would have to be the duratrax street force 2, not the original off ebay you posted before.
It comes completely RTR;
-O.S. .18 (massive for 1/10) engine
-Futaba radio and servos, basic, but good.
-Proline tyres and wheels
-Full bearings
-Tuned pipe (gives upto 40% more power)
-2 speed tranny.The most important thing in R/C is buy what suits yourself, not what looks cool.
If you live in an area with not many flat surfaces, then an on-road is gonna be a drag. If you have an offroader and live in the city, same deal….
What do you want it for??? Racing or stuffing around or both?
If you want to race i’d suggest a kit, yes it is dearer, but the quality of kit parts is much better than an RTR, also the parts like radio, servos etc. are pretty average. RTR engines are designed to be more economical and lower output than race engines.
Out of all those i’d say the AE Nitro TC3 Kit, a futaba 2pl radio and 2 servos, and something like an O.S. .12 CV-R or O.S. .12 TR. That would be a great race car and good also for running in the street.
Also the problem with RTR is you do not learn your car.Now if you want something just for “bashing” i’d look into something like the Duratrax Street Force 2, it has probably the biggest and most powerful engine in any RTR (3cc’s), which is made by the most famous motor company (O.S.)
It comes with stacks upon stacks of what would normally be considered aftermarket parts.lol this thread is OLD, over a year old…
lol this thread is OLD, over a year old…
very nice man! Mini Willy!
Wills will like this one
Just remember the N2O bottle in the passenger seat!!!
man these things are crap stock…
Get a nelly http://www.woahnelly.com
Get a decent motor atleast 35 turns
Get awd and bearings….
yeah i guess so, he didnt make it up so merh…
i’m tempted to get the transponder module, but merh, ive already spent $1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 this month on crap, and have to get xmas presents and the like….
If youre gonna apply 3 layers of paint, whats the point?? Just adds more weight!
well I attacked my alloy rims with a dremel and a wire brush wheel.
Put the wheel, with bearings on a screwdriver and spin it with the wire brush wheel, then turn the dremel about 40 degrees around to scuff up the rim surface, once you’ve done that a bit of contact adhesive or wateva and ur set…
make sure you get bearings and 4WD!
got it to work, my favourite car is the Kyosho V one RRR, with an o.s. .12 cv, easy to drive…
Wouldnt the black kinda show through a bright colour like yellow?
Forced to see family……LOL
Very scmick Aaron, i’ve often pondered things like this myself…
don’t forget limited range too!
Im sticking with a gear diff in my 1/10 for that same reason, low maintenence.
Im sticking with a gear diff in my 1/10 for that same reason, low maintenence.
Dave i’m interested in some anodizing….
How much for a 200mm x 140mm x 3mm sheet of aluminium? In gold?
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