jamiekulhanek

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Viewing 25 posts - 176 through 200 (of 2,484 total)
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  • in reply to: best differential award #23902
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Z-beam, 1/10 and 1/18 shocks have a piston with holes in it that moves up and down inside a cylinder or “shock body”. The piston is a reasonably tight fit in the shock body so to reduce friction u need Teflon impregnated shock bodies.

    The piston in the shocks have holes in them to let the oil flow through, this dampens the spring action.

    in reply to: 1/10 nitro shopping advice.. #57471
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    go back to your quiet mundane electric cars, this is for dirty smelly nitro cars!!

    Only kidding bithed :D:smiley2:

    Freeloader, the duratrax RTR kits are exceedingly good value, you even get little touches such as fuel bottle etc, and even a FREE NEWBIE DVD !!

    in reply to: VIRTUAL RC!!!! out now! #23901
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    my current quickest laptime on OSLO is 15.3 seconds. I started on the lowest power engine now i’m using the most powerful one, god damn tricky to keep it on the black stuff!

    in reply to: 1/10 nitro shopping advice.. #57468
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    The street force comes with an air filter, but grab some air filter oil too.

    Also get a fuel filter, they help a bit.

    A good clip on glow starter is a good investment too. The twist-n-lock ones are crap.

    A glow plug wrench and some spare glowplugs (such as O.S.#8)

    After that its just upgrades and spares you will need…

    Various things like a cross

    in reply to: 1/10 nitro shopping advice.. #57467
    jamiekulhanek
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    • Posts: 2563
    in reply to: 1/10 nitro shopping advice.. #57465
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    The street force GP2 will hit 100km/h.

    And lexan is the lightest, most durable material for car bodies. Most people are more interested in the performance of a car rather than intricate detail, if all you are worried about is looks, then you’re going for the wrong type of vehicle IMO.

    As for other bodies on the SF2 who knows…

    in reply to: 1/10 nitro shopping advice.. #57462
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Well again, for your application, the fastest, coolest, most jam-packed value for money car would have to be the duratrax street force 2, not the original off ebay you posted before.

    It comes completely RTR;

    -O.S. .18 (massive for 1/10) engine
    -Futaba radio and servos, basic, but good.
    -Proline tyres and wheels
    -Full bearings
    -Tuned pipe (gives upto 40% more power)
    -2 speed tranny.

    The most important thing in R/C is buy what suits yourself, not what looks cool.

    If you live in an area with not many flat surfaces, then an on-road is gonna be a drag. If you have an offroader and live in the city, same deal….

    in reply to: 1/10 nitro shopping advice.. #57459
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    What do you want it for??? Racing or stuffing around or both?

    If you want to race i’d suggest a kit, yes it is dearer, but the quality of kit parts is much better than an RTR, also the parts like radio, servos etc. are pretty average. RTR engines are designed to be more economical and lower output than race engines.

    Out of all those i’d say the AE Nitro TC3 Kit, a futaba 2pl radio and 2 servos, and something like an O.S. .12 CV-R or O.S. .12 TR. That would be a great race car and good also for running in the street.
    Also the problem with RTR is you do not learn your car.

    Now if you want something just for “bashing” i’d look into something like the Duratrax Street Force 2, it has probably the biggest and most powerful engine in any RTR (3cc’s), which is made by the most famous motor company (O.S.)
    It comes with stacks upon stacks of what would normally be considered aftermarket parts.

    in reply to: Bit Char-G Rally n #57458
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    lol this thread is OLD, over a year old…

    in reply to: Bit Char-G Rally’n #23911
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    lol this thread is OLD, over a year old…

    in reply to: wizzle willy! #23914
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    very nice man! Mini Willy!

    Wills will like this one

    Just remember the N2O bottle in the passenger seat!!!

    in reply to: X-Mods where to buy ? #23912
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    man these things are crap stock…

    Get a nelly http://www.woahnelly.com

    Get a decent motor atleast 35 turns

    Get awd and bearings….

    in reply to: VIRTUAL RC!!!! out now! #23882
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    yeah i guess so, he didnt make it up so merh…

    in reply to: VIRTUAL RC!!!! out now! #23880
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    i’m tempted to get the transponder module, but merh, ive already spent $1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 this month on crap, and have to get xmas presents and the like….

    in reply to: First time painting a 1/10 Body. #57451
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    If youre gonna apply 3 layers of paint, whats the point?? Just adds more weight!

    in reply to: got bored today #23935
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    well I attacked my alloy rims with a dremel and a wire brush wheel.

    Put the wheel, with bearings on a screwdriver and spin it with the wire brush wheel, then turn the dremel about 40 degrees around to scuff up the rim surface, once you’ve done that a bit of contact adhesive or wateva and ur set…

    in reply to: X-Mods where to buy ? #23936
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    make sure you get bearings and 4WD!

    in reply to: VIRTUAL RC!!!! out now! #23940
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    got it to work, my favourite car is the Kyosho V one RRR, with an o.s. .12 cv, easy to drive…

    in reply to: First time painting a 1/10 Body. #57438
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Wouldnt the black kinda show through a bright colour like yellow?

    in reply to: Sunday Races……..Sydney GTG!!!! #23938
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Forced to see family……LOL

    in reply to: FETmodding Advancements #57436
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Very scmick Aaron, i’ve often pondered things like this myself…

    in reply to: using a bit to control switches. #23946
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    don’t forget limited range too!

    in reply to: …..My New Toy…..!!!!!!!! #57426
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Im sticking with a gear diff in my 1/10 for that same reason, low maintenence.

    in reply to: …..My New Toy…..!!!!!!!! #57425
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Im sticking with a gear diff in my 1/10 for that same reason, low maintenence.

    in reply to: best differential award #23956
    jamiekulhanek
    Participant
    • Posts: 2563

    Dave i’m interested in some anodizing….

    How much for a 200mm x 140mm x 3mm sheet of aluminium? In gold?

Viewing 25 posts - 176 through 200 (of 2,484 total)