klims
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OK sorry i forgot about that side of thommo. lol.
I’m on the other side down the freeway. near the Edgars rd turnoff.
besides, isnt that called Keon park??????they sounds pretty sweet. i’d love to see some pics when your done.
so what are your hours of work? maybe we could have a little meet sometime. i’m keen on finally racing someone. not sure if it will be a very fair competition though. if your gonna build a track that size then i guess your not running a top end setup.
what exactly are you running?
same goes!
are you maybe taking pre orders Aaron?
hey man just got your pm.
i have a fully worked mr02, an mr02 body with iwaver internals and a recently acquired x-mods EVO with an awd upgrade.
no i don’t race down at a track but i would definitely like to. i normally go for a thrashing down at the new factories in Thomastown. really smooth roads .
so where do you work in Thomastown? i live just by the freeway, a little before the new bypass.
Andrew.
not sure about the common ground thing.
i wouldn’t think its very likely since power needs to pass through each phase so the ground should change.not sure about the supply voltage. its running off 8AA’s so i guess so.
on the 30A ver. do you need to select the suply voltage somehow?
did yours come with any type of instructions?????thanks for the info Dangerous Dave.
so i thought back to my days sitting in a lecture theatre learning about 3 phase motors, which these are and remembered that for it to work there needs to be power delivered to any two motor wires at the correct time.
remembering this i unplugged the motor and shorted the terminals to find out if i’m getting three phases, and i’m not.
the ESC sings at me when i connect say red to black, black to yellow, but not yellow to red. would i be correct in saying that the ESC is stuffed?
cagefreak there don’t seem to be any available at the ausmicro shop atm. Aaron did mention that he only had a few left. looks like we are gonna have to wait for the ver 3.0
Aaron, if the v3 will electronically be the same as the v2.1 is there any reason why you don’t solder the motor and power wires directly to the FETs? i noticed an increase in performance as soon as i did this, and i guess there would be less chance of blowing a track.
i don’t suppose you would like to tell us the stats, and maybe even an estimate on the cost of one of these puppies?
no no no. i must not have explained myself properly.
i put the tiny little tail rotor (smaller than th standard air lark) from the picco Z onto the tail rotor of the Air Lark.
piccoZ tail prop ROCKS!
just tested it ad it performs at least %50 better than that standard piece of sh!t. i mean it moves forward at least %50 faster.
but i guess with the extra loading the motor will wear out quicker. right?
that sounds like a good idea with the blue tack, but them you lose reverse i guess. i have someting similar hooked up on my picooz.
as for the tail rotor mine looks like crap when it spins. it wobbles way too much even though i have tried to straighten it out many times. have you ever tried any dirfferent props? maybe i’ll try a picooz prop…
it finally came!!!
awesome little product. flies well but i’m having some trouble with the forward direction. it doesn’t seem to make much difference. i kinda imagined it with a little more pull. i haven’t quite got the hang of the 3ch thing.
how does yours fly kerosene?
that sounds like a good idea.
did you notice increased flight times with the swallow charger?so i ended up buying a Airlark anyway. cost me 99 cents and $35 shipping lol.
any tips before i get this puppy flying?
thats for that. i’ll be back in action in no time!
i forgot all about ebay…thanks for that kerosene.
just watched the vid lol. how much fly time had you had when you made that?
i got really into it with the piccoZ for a little while. i noticed that if you strategically put a piece of bluetack on the nose it makes it WAY more fun because it moves forward a lot quicker.
i know what your thinking…but then how do i got straight up!… well what you do is swing full right and up and it spins like crazy on the spot and launches straight up, but then you gotta have the skill to bring it back.ohh they were good times! i don’t suppose anyone wants to sell me a tail rotor…
where did you get the Airlack from? don’t really feel like shopping around. i assume you have done your homework…
3 chip setup? tell me more.
hey Aaron,
i’m sure i’m not the first one to have thought of this, but why don’t you use a lower cost mosfet for the reverse H-Bridge? would this not greatly reduce the cost of a spider while still maitaining performance in the forward direction? i mean who really cares how fast you can go in reverse!?
Andrew.
yeah thats how i started off, then i got a little excessive and started getting into em with the plyers to stop the end cap moving. thats the only time i ever had that problem.
thanks for the help kevsta
ok thats a start.
maybe you can tell me how you bend in new tabs? does the end cap even move during use?
nah its definitely not that. i can see the bb can deform as i squeeze in the tabs.
the reason i think its the tabs is because while i was running in a motor i tried sqeezing the tob of the can to get it back into shape and the speed increased noticibly.
man i wish someone had told me that one. for 2 days i thought i was going mental because my circuit want’ working and i couldnt’ even test for continuity! does anyone know why they do that? and to add to the mystery it seems to be only the SO-8 package that does it. i have some mosfets in a D2-PAK package and they are sweet.
Melbourne 23 deg celcius. no snow…
if you are not getting a zero on that pin when the trigger is off, and not getting a high when the trigger is on (forward or reverse) then this is a problem.
try follow the track and see if you can take a test point from another place.
this will help you to find out if you have fried the track.sorry dude but i don’t actually have an xmods so i might not be the most help
Andrew.
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