merc-blue
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well how do u change the steps on the controler is it programmed from a PC (i would asume using a basic bootloader and programmed on a c compiler?).. if so u could build a pc link and make the fully adjustable control system..
to be a rough curve u get what they call exponetial control means u can have low accel and lots of top speed still speed so that its easyer to control. and lots of other cool things..do you use msn?
add me.
boy_with_pants@hotmail.comlol thats a worry specialy seeing the evo3 drivetrain isnt fantastice either..
as for the tb02r its only been released to try to sell more cars to drifters teh tb02 is very popular amongst them and the CF loks nice (and u can see it wont stop any thing).. maybe abit of twisting.. but flexing is the main issue in most shaft drives.. as for the Cf battery hold down.. bah just more bling.. its sad becasue the TA04r was a big step up fomr the ta04s but they didnt do the same with the Tb02…
after getting a evo3 and lookng at it closly i really think tamiya need to get new deisigners there 415 is a clone of another car.. they need to get new ideas..
I can set the chip up to run the motor at whatever power level you want at each step
.. if ya got it to non even steps u could run expo..
codesuidae.. how is the chip steps setup becasue i can see a expo setting here setup via a D9 link to a pc
yeah panda ive seen the evo4 in the flesh now.. and DAMN i want one.. its a very nice car. .its good to see tamiya using the alloy bulkheads in there shaft cars unlike how the evo3 are set out i dont like it 😛
yeah leon i saw this last nite.. pitty im driving the evo3 surikarn edition now :smiley16::smiley16:
well kev it depends on what u call serious .. when u start paying 700+ dollar for a chassis that doesnt even include a body tehn u know uve lost it .. lol
talldude having a PSU inside ur charger generates extra heat. and no car batt isnt the way to go a 13.8V PSU is (if your running ur motor lathe, charger, battery equaliser, tyre truer, cooling stand, etc all run off 13.8(12) volts
but for just a charger then yeah a car battery works fineas for a GOOD charger i would say the DTX ice best bang for ya buck.. although u should read up on battery cycling/conditioning etc so u know how to use it
if you cells are in a saddle or ladder pack config get a equaliser tray as well this will help maintain ur packs
also 3600 cells dont have a great reputation how do they run compared to a set of good 3300 matched cells?… im still on my 1.17V 400+ sec sanyo 2400s they are better than all teh non GP or non sanyo 3300s that i have tryed (matched or unmatched)
y yes i do
thats easy.. red
u using the dunk method u can also bend the spring on the + side abit harder which (or – looser which increases performance)yeah but may take ages but u got tons of performace for running matched cells u got faster and stay faster for longer
nup but ive used similar generic cells and wasnt a good experience.. sure there fine for bashing but if ya wanna race (even low divisions they drop voltage quite quick) they just wont have the output (could talk curves and voltages etc) that u need
yeah.. the other thing i would suggest is 2nd hand cells from mod racers they have TOP packs use for a month or 2 and there way better than anything we can afford they useually go for around 50-80 bux a pack depending on the dirver and the numbers (can occationaly get 30 buk packs off drivers i know well)
hey iff ya want access to a GOOD equalising tray i got one u can use next time were up at TFTR.. it will get ur cells to tha same base voltage/charge so that there all charged evenly
arrr the gmaxx cells are NOTHING compared to the GPs and sanyos.. i ran cheapo generic 3300s before my current matched sanyo 2400s and i got better performance and runtime from the 2400s because there were better cells in better packs
i would suggest getting decent cells the untra generic ones die pretty quick get onto http://www.harrisrc.com
there a aussie battery mathcing company they do great cells and great prices for bashing iwould recomend the dirty dozen 2 battery packs that are unmatched but will still be great for bashing they say the numbers on these cell are closer than most other unmatched packsno its just the smallest i got.. i have alot of BIG things… AHAHAHAHA. plus the 1:18 will be much faster than his 1:24
mini-zs are FAR better quality in terms of chassis and eletronics but if you gonna race it wont matter ur gonna be spending serious bucks on hop ups.. the best choic of car dependson what you want to do with it
the best place to get mini-zs are from OS localy u will pay through the nose.. theres a nice mini-z on ebay rite now if ya wanna check that out..lol leon look at ou540 spec class lol
me – evo3 SL with all this damn expensive pit equipment
leon- schumacher mission 1 with midrange pit equptment and good radio
ken – TB02 with good pit equiptment and the best readio out there .. and is the fastest of us all
dan – mission 1 with lower range pit equpitment etc
now
microamps – tB02 and no idea on the rest3 TBs vs 2 Mis ur mi is all hoped up compared to dans and my Tb is all hoped up compared to kens and micro amps…
bah i dont think were in trouble i have a 1:18 on its way that will give him a run for his money (plus abit)
nice mod but whats the efficency like you say you get 100% but we all know that it is impossible do you have the data sheet for the IC u use? can we get aa look at them?
im deffently up for putting in one of these into action..yeah get take off 27s there the standard tyre.. and good.. dont get tamiya tyres.. they cost to much .. get medium inserts (any barnd) and use nylon tyres casue its easyer to remove teh old tyres when teh wearout
kev.. im pretty sure there is a alloy motor mount that has standar “slotted” holes and 5.7 is a respectable ratio with a sport tuned motor or 20T ish it will be quick enough.. unless u got the driving ablility and the gear to suit it a sport tuned motor and 5.7 is TONs
i would say buy a decent ESC straight away.. really cheap nastys blow up get a nosram international or sumthign for 100 bux a good reliable ESC with a decent turn/current limit
leon if we limit to 300 size motor 6 cells u in?
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