micro_Amps
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Happy to help Bdebde, glad you like it.
ZZs are excellent once FET modded
:DuABoosters are the best, go and get one, even if you are holding out for the new series, they are still heaps of fun. Nothing beats 2 speeds.
Talldude, I’m not sure if you know, but you can get Tomy BCG ‘booster machine sets’ (booster chassis only) in all 4 frequencies.
:)uAAlso the Lxx TypeR (booster) comes in 6 different freqs, 27,35,40,45,49,& 57MHz 🙂
Edited by – micro_Amps on 20 July 2003 18:29:07
Quote:main differences are between a Bit Char-G and a Compact Char-G ??In short…..the box! Its the same product.
Same with the Hobico Microsizers.
So if you see any refferences to these, consider them all the same thing. All the accessories and hop ups are compatible accross the 3 of them.
:)uAQuote:main differences are between a Bit Char-G and a Compact Char-G ??In short…..the box! Its the same product.
Same with the Hobico Microsizers.
So if you see any refferences to these, consider them all the same thing. All the accessories and hop ups are compatible accross the 3 of them.
:)uAThats quite a collection coming together there Barto, its looking good.
I must pull my finger out and do something with my member gallery.
:)uAFind the avatar you want and ‘right click’ on it.
Choose properties and it will list the URL.
Type the URL into your avatar selection, and there you have it.
:)uASounds like the motor isnt sitting in the chassis correctly. Try gently bending out the little tab on the end of the motor. OR,
if you say you have narrowed it down to the controller, try another controller.
:)uAThey wouldnt be Hot Tunerz wheels would they?
:)uAQuote:does anyone know if the programming is held onboard the car itself or the controller?The program is entered on the controller, then you press GO and the car follows the stored commands that are transmitted from the controller. There is nothing stored in the cars electronics, its all from the controller.
:)uAOk, heres the drum. I have had one of these things since they first came out a month or so ago, but lack of time has stopped me reveiwing it, also building a website, but thats another story.
The cars are radio controlled, but not using the same signal code as the BCGs. They DO steer, BUT the front wheels dont move. The car has both the rear wheels driven independantly, and depending on which is driven faster makes the car turn. The rear end has 2 driving motors, two gear reduction sets, and is a ‘cartridge’ that pulls out of the chassis so the motors can be easily changed. The rear tyres are rubber but the front are plain plastic so as to not hinder the rear wheels when they are trying to change he car’s direction.
The remote is 2 stage speeds in forward and reverse, and steering is not proportional but “full left” or “full right”, which is a bit annoying because until you get the hang of it, it tends to ‘pivot’turn on the spot.
The remote has a programmable option, that you can punch in up to 48 steps and push GO and the car follows what you have put in to it. Fun to watch, a novelty, but ultimately not a performance enhancement.
Funny enough though, when the car is performing a pre-programmed routine its steering is ‘incremantal’ (not fully “on”, more like proportional), but when you control the car it is always fully on left or right.
The car has ‘bumper wheels’ on the front corners, like a bit racer, and it would be perfect for running in the type of track that it comes with, with the high sides. This car is kind of a cross between a bit racer and a BCG, in that its designed for a track, but also has radio control.
I found the car fun to play with, a little frustrating at times because its not as controllable as a BCG. The steering is adequate, but would be difficult to have a serious race because it turns on the spot so easily. Ground clearence is really low, so carpet running is out of the question. The remote is snazzy looking, but there is very little inside, ALL of the transmitter functions are from one chip, which is covered in one of those black blobs, so no mods there.
The car could be a candidate for mods though. It is built to run two motors, so there are possabilities. It runs the same size 1.2v 120mAH NiMH cell that we are familiar with, with no possibility for the addition of an extra cell. Laymans dual cell would be the only battery mod option. The car circuit board is tiny, double sided, and chock a block full of components on both sides.
The twin motors definitely have some potential for a mod to a BCG though. The 2 motors are 3.5s to 3.8s in speed, but there is a large reduction in the gearing, the motor gear has a 9 pin gear on it, just gotta work out a way to get them both into a BCG. I’m sure someone will one day. The torque is good because of the high gearing reduction.
More novelty value than a serious racer, but I get the feeling we might see some serious mods originating from this car because it is so different (in control method) from the BCGs.
End of ramble.
:)uAHey Crom, welcome back.
:)uAHehehe, you guys crack me up.
Oh well, if you cant beat ’em……Garage floor, and a length of rope pushed into the shape of a track.
:)uA
Kinda bulky and out of proportion.
But they are different.
I guess I like em.
:)uAYeh the market will have clones, the usual market assortment.
I think Hobbyplace charges about $25 for the BCG gear set.
:)uAMost of the Kmarts and Toys r us around the place have Compact chargs, but you probably already know that. The toy r us in the city recently closed anyway, so forget that one.
Hobby place in Lonsdale St, near Melbourne Central shopping center, has BitChargs, but prepare yourslf for $80 a kit. They also sell Compacts, but at the same price. 😯 They are only $48 at Kmart.
There arent that many toy and hobby shops in the city center. Most of the shops are in the burbs. With looking for a clone, its really pot luck if they sell them at a toy store or not. Some service stations even have them.
Sorry, cant be a huge help here. I guess Melbourne just isnt the micro rc mecca it should be. I think most of us here are either buying via the net or getting compacts.
Good luck. Let us know how you go.
:)uALeinli17 the fets are stated in all the different threads around on the net they are IRLML2502s.
I havent done a Char-A yet but I’d like to, I read good things about them. They should perform well.
I have bought the Monaro, as well as the HRT holden, havent fet modded them yet, but they will be going real fast when I do….one day.:)uA
Good stuff Z-beam, very clever. :approve:
:)uAQuote:the proto works well without them so I’ve turfed those components…..hehehe, ph2t, you are ….(choose one)
1. bloody amazing.
2. very economical with components.
3. just plain resourceful
4. a hack techo who doesnt follow the rules :smiley2:.I know which I choose.
Just kidding mate:smiley2::D:)uA
Yeh surfmystrat, thats exactly what I mean.
Were you able to solder it back on ??
If so was there any difference.??Ph2t, I’ve seen that thread emerging, I think they are going to have problems with current supply using a DC-DC for motor power.
Intersting to see how things turn out though.
:)uAYes leonli17, I have fet modded several different types of clones for people. Including, shen qui wes, precious, zipzaps, hummers, Lxx boosters, and of course MS pros, and Tomy standard & booster machine sets.I can do all of them now, I’ve worked out the circuits and can alter the mod to suit any differences on the pcbs. 100% success rate so far.
Once modded, all have the same amazing results.:approve:The fets are available at many places, RS components (AU), Conrads (DE), Digikey (USA).
All of these places sell on the net too.
Hope this helps.
:)uAEdited by – micro_Amps on 07 July 2003 16:56:42
hehehe, looks excellent ph2t.
A silly idea comes to mind…….
How about combining rows of undercar lights with the knight rider circuit and getting the whole underneith of the car lit up and oscillating from side to side.:shock:
Thanks for showing the circuit too BTW.:)uA
Edited by – micro_Amps on 07 July 2003 13:25:08
Ive been thinking about doing the same thing, but havent checked component compatibity yet. It should work, but as you say it will need to be retuned. Let us know how you go. It would be good to have 5v on the baord instead of the usual 3.3, it should boost the range heaps.
:)uAYeh ph2t, I think you are making trouble for your self by melting the wax first.
Just use something small and sharp to scrape it out, it usually comes away in one compact blob.
Dont bother using something non metallic to tune the coil, it doesnt make any difference if it is metallic or not in these cars. I use a small screwdriver filed down with the dremmel to about 1mm. After adjusting it, take the screwdriver away and test it. The only reason you need to use a non metallic adjuster is in sensitive amplified RF ciruits that woud be effected by the change in inductance of the screwdriver. Once its removed it as no influence.:)uA
Im a huge fan of the 350Z (Fairlady) shells. Similar to the Celica in size, light and snug fitting. The car doesnt spin or flip as much with this shell.:approve: It does tend to get stuck under the fridge tho. 🙁
:DuA
Yes, thats the way I am checking the change in range, by walking away from the transmitter and adjusting the coil until I reach the maximum distance.
:)uA -
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