micro_Amps
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Harsh (but understandable) rules being set already, and the club is not even formed yet.
Sounds ok tho, I guess with the compacts we might go up to 5 at a time, but we may still have interferences towards the lower end of the frequency range.
Anyway, count me in. :approve:
I’ve just put one into my booster. Goes ok, fast but doesnt last all that long. I guess Ive grown used to the 150mAH NiMH batteries.The motor and pcb warm up a fair bit cranking out 3.6V. Might need a few more runs to develop its full capacity.
BTW I charged at 6V for about 3 mins, until just toasty warm.I’ve just put one into my booster. Goes ok, fast but doesnt last all that long. I guess Ive grown used to the 150mAH NiMH batteries.The motor and pcb warm up a fair bit cranking out 3.6V. Might need a few more runs to develop its full capacity.
BTW I charged at 6V for about 3 mins, until just toasty warm.Hey ph2t, check your private messages :smiley2:
Anyway, what I meant to post is that, yes, the 2 mins is because it is a smaller capacity battery. You are back to the original setup of a 50mAH battery, just now you have a higher voltage. So you go fast for the same amount of time as a standard battery….about 2 mins.
Bing **(light goes on in uA’s head)**
You could however do a ripper dual batt bit mod and have 3.6v at 86mAH which might last you 5 – 10 mins when fully charged, and it would run like a triple bat bit. It’d be a rocket
Anyway, what I meant to post is that, yes, the 2 mins is because it is a smaller capacity battery. You are back to the original setup of a 50mAH battery, just now you have a higher voltage. So you go fast for the same amount of time as a standard battery….about 2 mins.
Bing **(light goes on in uA’s head)**
You could however do a ripper dual batt bit mod and have 3.6v at 86mAH which might last you 5 – 10 mins when fully charged, and it would run like a triple bat bit. It’d be a rocket
Try charging for longer until the battery starts to warm up a little, and maybe at a slightly higher voltage, say 7.5 – 9v for about 90 secs but watch the temp.
Having said that I’m gonna get me one of these ASAP 🙂 Thanks for spotting it and posting it.
uATry charging for longer until the battery starts to warm up a little, and maybe at a slightly higher voltage, say 7.5 – 9v for about 90 secs but watch the temp.
Having said that I’m gonna get me one of these ASAP 🙂 Thanks for spotting it and posting it.
uAThat could be true, either that or they fall asleep for 2&1/2 hours and wake up at the zoo,….. which is still another 1&1/2 hours to get home.
Yeh, lol now, but it wasnt funny at the time.
Imagine waking up in the dark, looking out the window, and not recognising any of the graffiti that you are so used to seeing. First thing that comes to mind is “WHERE THE **** AM I???” :shock::sad:**uA sighs as he remenisces…**
Ahh the blissful days of train travel……..:approve:
I gave it up a while back for the daily smog and road rage fix in the traffic. :angry:
Not quite so much reading happening nowI live near Frankston but commute to the city each day
I dont think that would be all that difficult. Theres no real mods required, just replacing the internals into the PS1 controller and adapting the buttons to suit. Maybe installing a telescopic aerial at the same time.
Do you mean a standard controller, or a 4B??
A 4B would be more of a challenge with the extra switches and all, probably best to start with a standard controller to begin with. If you want to supply all the parts for a prototype, I’ll put the time in to build it, then return the finished product to you. That way we could all see whether its worth it. What do you reckon??Yep, I’ll be in that too.
A bit of local unity amongst Melbournites wouldnt hurt at all.
Get a bit of friendly competition going.
Or maybe not so friendly 👿😀 uA
Interesting thread on the prop controller development.
It will be good to see how it turns out.
In the series of chips that run in the Rx & Tx (the Txc2 & Rxc2) there are also 4,5,6,&7 series sets. The Txc6 is used in the 4B controller. But the Txc7 and Rxc7 are full proportional control. I havent been able to find much out about these but this could be interesting too. I wouldnt be surprised if they turn up in the next generation of BCGs.Good ideas on the batteries too guys I’ll keep them in mind. Im still going on extending the range of a standard controller. Its not as straight forward as first thought
:)uAThanks crom, its the thought that counts.
I hope I can find some of both, tho I dont know where just yet…I’m still working on it at the moment, but I’ve struck a few problems….
One of which is the inconsistancy in production of the Rxs. I have 2 27MHz cars. One has the Rx cripple cap removed and aerial changed, its range outside with a standard controller is 33 meters!!!:shock::shock::shock:I know, blew me away too. The other car, for some reason, did not have a cripple cap on the Rx or the Tx and has a range of about 2 meters and its brand new :sad::sad: That sux. Tuning the variable inductance ‘pot’ made no difference either. :angry: Go figure :question: Just a dud I suppose.
Any how I am still going on the Tx power increase, watch this space. I am planning a web site to document this and some other mods I have in mind, just a soon as I get the time:)uA
Yeh very true, but if I keep the existing 2 AAs to run the chip and charger, then I wouldnt need the 7805s at all. The RF amp part of the circuit will be powered seperately by the external batteries at a slightly higher voltage eg 6V. Its simpler this way. I know that you then have two sources of power but it will keep the mod nice and easy.
I am still weighing up the pros and cons of doing the mod with a NiMH 9V (or 8.4V) battery, and then just recharging it from time to time. The battery would then fit into the standard (but not 4B) controller with a little dremmelling and the charging voltage could be manipulated to handle multi cell bits as well. I havent fully explored this yet tho. The charging cct may need modifying as well to cope with the higher voltage. I think it may effect the ‘timing’ (R & C delay) of the charging circuit.Quote:Can anyone figure out where the RF Tx Amp is located? We could simply use a voltage regulator on it to lower the power going into it, and thus shorten the range a bit.The RF Tx amp is Q2, and you dont want to drop the power output, you want to increase it from its original, but not by too much. What I’m working on is approx. doubling the range of a standard Tx. That should do us. The power supply is a bit of a sticky one at the moment. A 9v battery would need its voltage cut down to the chip with a zener diode, the charger would need the 9v battery voltage cut down with a zener too, and zeners bleed current. So much so that a Tx modded to run on a 9v battery may only run for a few hours.A 7805 voltage regulator (or 2) would be better, having lower idle currents, but then it starts to become too technical for your average joe to do the mod. The finished modded controller will probably have a small battery pack stuck to the underneith of it (maybe 4 X AAA or AA…so 6V) for transmission power only. The two existing AAs will still run the chip and the charger. This would make the result a mod that is easy enough for people to do. It will probably consist of opening the Tx, cutting a track, soldering the external battery pack wire in place, and closing up the Tx again. I hope so anyway. I am working on both standard and 4B controllers at the moment. 4B is more complicated as it has 4 final RF circuits. Lets see how I go.
uA:)No its not. It depends how accurate the receiver is. The BCGs have a rudimentary AM receiver, that will be disturbed by just about anything. The Zs must be a higher quality receiver to have 12 different models close to each other on 27MHz.
Keep in mind that radio stations can be as close to each other as 9KHz (thats 0.009 MHz)and they dont interfere with each other. The BCGs receiver is just not a highly precise device but it is sufficient for the job. The Tx is also VERY weak by transmission standards, and whilst I think that 200 feet of range may be overkill, I can see a 6v~60 feet mod (that is easy to do) becoming commonplace to overcome the various range problems that we all know about. 60 feet will put the BCG just about out of site. If legalities are a concern then concentrate on your 27 MHz models and even use the same mod on a 40 MHz CompactStill, it should be developed to overcome a design shortfall – crappy and sometimes unpredictable range
uAYeh Ive done a dual internal NiMh cell bit and with a 3.8 in it, it flies. Heaps of fun, it drifts real well too, on the right surface.
Go for it, you will enjoy 🙂
uAYep, my vote is now in the “If its cool” section
I didnt post a vote because Im not allowed to choose more than one pick.
Stickers / Decals, 1:1 and BCG size, Im in!
T shirt, Yep
Official Ausmicro BCG shell, wheres my credit card ?
Mousemat, if its got a mini race track on it I’ll have one of those too (piss the mouse off it and do a couple of quick laps…maybe I could use my lap timer on it…sorry getting sidetracked)
A mug? what the hell, why notResponse from those already posted seems positive, could it be a revenue raising avenue for Aaron as well, to help with the site expenses?
Anyway I’m all for it, all of it
Bring it on:)uA
Happy Birthday Crom,
Scored well with the Celica, that was my first ever BCG, and its still kicking on…and unmodded too……now where did I put my dremel :smiley2:
uA:D
Good on you Mythos,
anybody that posts good informative info, backed up with top pictures is an asset to this forum.
Keep up the good work!!
And let us know if the fronts work too
🙂 uAGood on you Mythos,
anybody that posts good informative info, backed up with top pictures is an asset to this forum.
Keep up the good work!!
And let us know if the fronts work too
🙂 uAIt maxed out at US$36,a dark horse put his nose in front 2 hours before the end. So much for the rush at the end
Looks like pandabear is the man :D:D -
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