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Probably one of the DigiQ or similar, with IR control?

[PandaBear]

Probably one of the DigiQ or similar, with IR control?

[PandaBear]

No, when they say “mini” they mean Tamiya’s 1/10 Mini Cooper (M03). They’re FWD and slightly smaller than fullsize touring cars.

You wanna come up?? 🙂

Can supply all cars & equipment, just need some driver bods. 😀

[PandaBear]

Can’t say I’ve used them a lot, but the one stuck in the Beat Magnum does leave quite a bit of carbon filings at the air-vent. (I’ve cut airscoops pointing into the motor for cooling, this thing sucks 4A from the AAs…!)

Probably only have done 15-20 runs on the track and the brushes in that one are about 1/2 gone.

But yeah, don’t know how much they charge for the brush kit… but @ $20ea the motors aren’t exactly cheap.

Dare say a Mini-Z with 4.8V will work the motor even harder. blackeye:

Now if someone tells me they’ve got comm lathes for 130 motors… WHY won’t I be too surprised??! :evil::evil::smiley2:

[PandaBear]

Can’t say I’ve used them a lot, but the one stuck in the Beat Magnum does leave quite a bit of carbon filings at the air-vent. (I’ve cut airscoops pointing into the motor for cooling, this thing sucks 4A from the AAs…!)

Probably only have done 15-20 runs on the track and the brushes in that one are about 1/2 gone.

But yeah, don’t know how much they charge for the brush kit… but @ $20ea the motors aren’t exactly cheap.

Dare say a Mini-Z with 4.8V will work the motor even harder. blackeye:

Now if someone tells me they’ve got comm lathes for 130 motors… WHY won’t I be too surprised??! :evil::evil::smiley2:

[PandaBear]

Dunno, as I don’t believe in electric flight. (batteries are too heavy for planes, imho)

How so different?
All the electrics I’ve seen have run their props through some kind of reduction gearbox anyway.

When we flew, we only had nitro engines for RC and the little Cox .049s for CL. Have quite a few 2-stroke nitro donks from 15 to 60, all by OS.

Real tempted to get back into the air… since now one can get these ARTF folded pla-board thingys now for $100 or less & I hate building in balsa. Pretty good price for a pre-built airframe!!

But bugger… lot of developments since *we* last flew, like we used AM 27Mhz radios. Would now have to buy new FM radio on plane freq, all new power packs and maybe a 4-stroke engine too (for the lower noise/pitch).

Nah, too hard, I’ll just stay grounded. :blush:

[PandaBear]

This seems to be the current lineup…

ITEM 15131 (GP131) Mach-Dash Motor
ITEM 15133 (GP133) Rev-Tuned Motor
ITEM 15134 (GP134) Torque-Tuned Motor
ITEM 15186 (GP186) Plasma-Dash Motor

ITEM 15215 (GP215) Atomic-Tuned Motor
ITEM 15225 (GP225) Touch-Dash Motor
ITEM 15256 (GP256) Hyper-Dash 2 Motor

And I’ll be darned… they DO sell brushes for the Plasma.
“94387 AO-1009 Brush Holder Set for Plasma-Dash Motor”

But its “Japan Only”… :dead:

[PandaBear]

T/E-maxx bullbars and the skidplates don’t actually do much… the most they do is act as wheelie bars (for when you hit the throttle/brake too enthusiastically).

Haven’t seen anyone who’s bothered trying to reuse the bits taken off a Maxx onto another car. Usually the bars & plates don’t look very good when the chromey plating is rubbed off, that’s usually why ppl buy aftermarket bars too.

Definitely not “direct bolt-on”, but hey anything is possible if you have the time and patience. :blush:

[PandaBear]

Major tips that no one else has mentioned…

1) use only GOOD masking tape. Get the Tamiya yellow stuff or the BLUE tape that 3M sells.
All the other $2 beige stuff… don’t waste your
time and efforts.

2) primer is good if you’re painting light colors
that are not very opaque. Primer gives opacity
to the lighter colours, covers up any darker
or clear areas.

3) always use same type/brand of primer as paint.

4) if you don’t care for clear windows and can’t
be bothered masking, just paint the bodycolor
whole then handpaint the glass areas with black.

5) BCG clear bodies are too thick for painting on
the inside. It’ll look like a lump of crystal…

[PandaBear]

Thought it was an automatic/statistical thingy…

Guess not! blackeye:

[PandaBear]

Pot… Kettle… a pretty dark shade of grey?

Calm it you folks.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

The Plasma Dash needs no brush replacement.

… or is that: Plasma Dash *HAS* no brush replacement…?

Anyone ever see these things sold separately? 😯

[PandaBear]

Its been a few days already…

but still waiting for this:

Top 5 Articles
Our Big Change in Little Cars

to fix itself… :blush:

[PandaBear]

There’s a perfectly good to use ‘Search’ button right at the top, Dan.

Here’s some old threads that might be of use:

#1

#2

#3

[PandaBear]

You need the close bits too… as in “[ /quote ]” 🙂

Click on the FORUM CODE link on the LH side for the full FAQ.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

I always thought that the johnson 0.05 was meant to be equivalent to a 0.05 Glow Plug motor…..well thats the theory with “Astro” motors.

Dunno about the Astros, but I think Johnson works on hp ratings.
Whereas the Mabuchi “540”… that’s its physical can’s dimensions.

Nothing really relative to glow engines imho.
Glow engines are measured by capacity… a “21” is 0.21 cu.i = 3.5cc.

[PandaBear]

Umm… “300W” is probably pushing it. 🙂

@ 7.2V the craziest 6 turns are pushing about
240-250W as a max… and these motors are only
good for about 3 runs before they cark it.

And as P = V x I = Revs x Torque…
1) they’re revvers, they make P with lots of revs
2) might get that @ 12V… but it’ll just selfdestruct even quicker

Funnily enough… RC motors aren’t very efficient.
Race motors are designed more for drivability…
a motor designer/builder could possibly draw one
up that produces lots of power on paper by using
maximum efficiency, but it’ll be very sluggish
off the mark with a very heavy fully-filled armature.

Crazy single-turn mods have lightweight arms with
less wire than you’d think… for faster response.
Not very efficient, but they make it up in revs.
These days the batteries are more than enough to
finish a race, so motor designers trade up a lot
of efficiency for better pickup instead.

[PandaBear]

Out of total boredom (don’t ask :sad:)…

John Paul College, Frankston VIC
John Paul College, Coffs Harbour NSW
John Paul College, Logan City QLD
John Paul College, Kalgoorlie WA
John Paul College, Rotorua, North Island NZ

wowee… ok, I’ll be off now.

[PandaBear]

You from Brissy, Mr Aaron?
🙂

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Only 35 watts?? I think some 540’s have a bit more power than that…. closer to 100 watts.

Ahh… talking the “standard” Mabuchi RS540SH here… 🙂

Above was only ruff-as-gutz calc, based upon equivalent
Johnson 05 is rated at “0.05 horsepower” (thus the name)
and 1hp = ~700W…? (can’t remember exact figs).

Anyway, this is what the factory says:

RS-540SH/SF (model 5045)
OPERATING RANGE 4.5 – 12.0
NOMINAL (COMMUTATOR POSITION) 12(CCW+)
NO LOAD Speed/Current 17500rpm 0.95A
AT MAX EF 15080rpm 5.93A Torque 31.8N/m 324g/cm 50.1W
STALL 230N/m 2345g/cm 37.0A

So yeah, it does 50.1W if run on 12V… :p

Assuming linear power/V relationship, if we run it at
7.2V that should give us 7.2/12 X 50.1W = 36W.

Wahey, whaddya know… :smiley2:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

what exactly do u keep when ur doin a quote cause it says like quote about 3 times

They work in Pairs, 1 pair per step… 🙂

Quote:

arent titanium parts lighter than plastic but also a way way stronger?

Ti is about as dense as some good plastics (never measured) but yup.
However it is expensive material and it wouldn’t be economically
feasible to make everything out of it.

Besides, as said before, you don’t want *every* bit of your car made
out of ‘strong’ stuff. Some bits are made specially weaker, so this
is the sacrificial weak spot – think “crumple zones”. These bits will
break first, to prevent breakage of more-expensive components.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

what exactly do u keep when ur doin a quote cause it says like quote about 3 times

They work in Pairs, 1 pair per step… 🙂

Quote:

arent titanium parts lighter than plastic but also a way way stronger?

Ti is about as dense as some good plastics (never measured) but yup.
However it is expensive material and it wouldn’t be economically
feasible to make everything out of it.

Besides, as said before, you don’t want *every* bit of your car made
out of ‘strong’ stuff. Some bits are made specially weaker, so this
is the sacrificial weak spot – think “crumple zones”. These bits will
break first, to prevent breakage of more-expensive components.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

with that last paragraph u kinda sound like my science teacher….

heh heh… its amazing what they teach ya in skool… 👿

Just don’t wanna see ppl saying they put on ally bits “to save weight”.
Especially when they replace plastic with alloy.
(I’ve got some digital scales for 0-2000g – who wants to argue? :p)

Replacing steel fasteners with titanium, ok.
But aluminium screws are useless for stress-bearing.

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Aluminium is a very soft metal, so it will bend or crack when its smacked even not-very-hard. Aluminium is softer than mild steel. Unlike plastics, it will not rebound back – it stays bent.

Aluminium is also heavier than usual plastics, and when you build in some extra material just to reinforce the part – an aluminium part is usually heavier than its original plastic component.

Titanium on the other hand is 3X stronger than steel of the same volume AND its lighter than aluminium. However Ti is a very expensive metal due to rarity… (and a few interesting material properties like being biologically inert).

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Quote:

I was thinking maybe twin motors…

Is it just me getting too old or would be fair to assume
the GH doesn’t really *need* any more power… :D:D

540 is rated to pump out 0.05hp I think.
(That’s about ~35W?)

If one really demanded more power, how about dropping in a
Novak SS brushless system… that’s rated at 196W. 👿

Hmm… project Froghopper… 😯

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