PandaBear
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… that might explain why our junk box contains
so many Hornet gearbox assemblies, all in pristine
working condition. 🙂Hmm… starting to think of what wierd projects
a Hornet gearbox can be used for… how about:-
-rail dragster?
-craft a new chassis out of FRP plate & aluminium?
-2x4x6x8… “stretch” Grasshopper?? 😀Those contacts are probably OK up to 1A, maybe even 2A. They don’t heat up much when pumped at those rates. (no prizes now guessing how I charge them…)
Maybe when you’re trying to draw more than 2A (ie your batteries only last 10 mins) you could try hardwiring, but till then its probably not worth the trouble on a mZ.
There are other ‘skinny’ hookups in the circuit… like the interconnects inside the motor can and the PCB’s tracks aren’t exactly anything to yell home about.
otoh… Plazma Dash does suck about 4A…! 😯
Quote:hey all….
i should be recieving my hopper 2 soon….
and from waht ive heard its a solid car….i dont think its really fragile……im sure it could take a beating….if it was looked after propley….the one im getting is near new….only thee body is a bit scratched
cheers
danWelcome to the BBS, Dan.
Maybe you can meet up with Jamie and race him… :):)
Yup… the worst cells in every matched batch are
still “matched”, haha… 👿Luckily most of the good battery namebrands aren’t
stupid enough to try sell these as matched, I’d
think they’ll just package them into “sport” packs
and the very worst they’ll resell to industrial
users.There are usually several grades of matched packs
too… and priced accordingly. Usually the “Team”
ones are the dearest & with the best numbers.However, batteries that have gone thru matching
also means they’ve been cycled a few times. This
tests all the cells and makes sure you won’t get
anything that’s DOA… occasionally that does
happen if you use raw brandnew cells.Best aluminium thingy to get??
— a tinny… full o’ Beer! 🙂Apart from aesthetics, there is little benefit for
aluminium parts. They cost more, they weigh more
and when they get hit – they stay bent!Stick with plastics, they are engineered like that
for a good reason. Every system needs a weak link
that will fracture when overstressed… such as
suspension arms, knuckles etc.If you try replace these with harder/metal parts
then you’ll just break something else next time
eg bulkheads, transmission etc. These parts will
be usually be more expensive to buy and harder
to fix.Don’t underestimate RC car design! :smiley16:
Anyone tried the option RX antenna booster sold
by Kyosho yet? Its a circuit board that replaces
your pianowire antenna, and stays under the shell.(Pianowire is a liability at chez Bear… it’ll
poke someone’s eye out before long. So I leave
it off…)Can get speed only from high gearing, as there’s
a max to every motor’s rpm. RCCA got their TA03
with twin motor up to 87MPH I think.No known way of getting M01/02 to handle, least
of all is making it RWD – this needs real sticky
rear tyres as a bandaid against donuts, ditto M04.
FWD M03 is still the best mini platform so far.(although the newest Yokomo 4WD mini with the
caricature’d mini Stratus shell is soooo cute…)Quote:..but please a stadium blitzer??Hey, ya dissing the S’Bitser?? :angry:
Its got ok suspension & drivetrain, give it decent oil shocks
with full bearings and it can probably do a lot better than
you think. Its not much removed from a ‘current’ design.A Tamiya BLACKFOOT on the other hand…. 👿
Haha, the ‘slow & steady’ way some pros drive you’d think
they’re going backwards… yet the lap times don’t lie.Offroad racing is pretty different to flat-ground touring cars.
I think its easier getting a TC adequately around a track, but
driving buggies needs more thinking to be quick.Yup, PD’s only too right.
Usual racing classes are
1) 540
2) Stock
3) ModifiedIf you’ve never raced before, use a chromecan
Mabuchi 540 and go for 540 class.When you’ve won a few races, then step up to Stock… and when you’re crazily rich and can
afford to buy a new motor + batteries + tyres
for EACH race, then yeah why not? blackeye:Spend your money on tyres & gearing instead.
On a 2WD truck, you’re just going to have traction
problems. The less power you have, the faster
you’ll get around the track.You need to learn how to gear your truck for
optimum speed vs acceleration, so you need to
buy a decent range of pinions/spurs.Quote:Now that would be interesting 😉 The ’03 is very very versatile 😉Just need another motor/gearbox assembly to replace the rear dummy one, clean pure dropin fit.
As for speed… twin motors means more torque, not double speed.
Dunno if midmotor makes any real difference though, after all its still on unsprung weight.
The shock on top looks cool though.
(Hope its std, not a hopup.)Am not planning on getting MR02… not unless
there’s another F40 in the pipeline. 🙁Quote:do u no of any specific types of team orion motor that is build for a stadium truck because i no that the mr toys at springwood has like stacks of team orion motors but they all look the same and i dunno but i think they r for touring carsumm… did you bother ASKING the guy at the counter?? 👿
Motors are the same, whether you stick them in your TC or a boat.
Anyone who advertises “specialised” motors are merely champions
at printing out flashy new stickers.It is YOUR CALL how hot a motor you want to run, DEPENDING ON YOUR
LOCAL TRACK. The motors themselves, you can screw them into any RC
and expect the same performance for each model/wind. They stock lots
of different winds, I’m pretty sure.You also need to consider what batteries/ESC you have. Its no good
if you run the hottest motor and your batteries only last 2 mins,
you cannot Make runtime and you Lose the race.Motor, gearing, chassis setup… it all comes into experience & skill.
There is no point having the fastest car on the straight if you can’t
drive around the corners too, your lap time will still be shot.
If your car ain’t reliable, it won’t finish the race.
If your batteries dump, you’re going nowhere either.Don’t forget, “To finish First, you have to first Finish!”🙂
You left out something important… the DRIVER. :p:p
Experience & car setup knowhow is required.
A seasoned racer would spank yer shiny :8ball: even
if he/she only drove a Tamiya Stadium Blitzer and
gave the newbie a 3 lap headstart.Best equipment ain’t everything on the track…
(but it sure looks good when you come 2nd :blush:)Erm… EVERYTHING is a “good bashing truck”, just
a matter of how deep your wallet is. 👿ps: you’re just tyre-kicking, right?? :smiley2:
We’ve built a twin-motor’d TA03… 🙂
Whoops, correction again, sorry.
It should have read “EX-7”.
(it was the basic no-frills version when the full-blown EX-5 came out in 1990)I just received some new mZs… but they turned
out to be the original chassis with the ‘new’ TX.
Not the MR02 chassis I think.Wierd… what DO you guys do to
cars that make them fail so much??Me… the 1st TA03 we bought is still around and
going strong. It hasn’t broken anything yet and
stil has plently of life left.And yes, this is same one the wife learnt to drive on.
Dragged another pal out to the track last Sat and
stuffed the TX & 03 in his hands and said go for it.
Have done that to numerous fellas and got them
all hooked on RC… heh heh heh.That TA03 has a lot to answer for… is still 100% intact today. 🙂
Ahh, if it breaks again send it down here and
we’ll fix it up good & proper!! :blush:There is no difference between Orion & Trinity,
anyone who can swear there’s any earth-shattering
difference between these two brands is purely
splitting sticks. Both are well known and
internationally respected.Personally I like Trinity… but that doesn’t mean
EVERYTHING with the Trinity badge is good, its
just a personal preference. I think the D5 is nice
but you won’t find that family for under A$120.
Trinity SpeedGems hmmm… quite ‘ordinary’ but
they can be good value if you buy them cheap. blackeye:If Mr Toys has a good line of Orions then ask them
what is the best motor & gearing for your needs.
Have been there before and they seem to know what
they’re generally talking about.For < $80, dare say the motor might have bushings.
If it does, ask if they can supply 2pcs of bearing
and maybe install them for you in the motor too.It is a worthwhile upgrade for a mod motor.
HPI’s site contains the full manual as well as
a “walk through” version full of pictures.But not illegal to “own”, hahaha… (phew!)
That IRF7389 is already a “compatible” chip… :smiley2:
Standard Mk.1 “Perfex” (aka JR Python, Acoms Technisport) TX
isn’t all that RF-powerful (due to legal restrictions?),
but it was the the same as what they supply for the
larger Kyosho RTR Readysets.Antenna on car also makes a difference.
Without the car antenna wire and the antenna unextended
on my Acoms Technisport, the range is about 4-6′.
With the TX antenna extended, its about 20-25′.For indoor use, that’s fine.
Quote:I think rather than using a stack of 20 FETs you should look at using a larger MOSFET…..In theory yes, but in practical life its hard to find suitable
MOSFETs with the same/suitable drive & input specifications.
They just aren’t simple signal transistors…So stacking FETs is easier, as parallel FETs gives lower resistance.
But 20… erm, ya better cut some sunroofs in ya mZ shell baby. :pYou need experience in listening to the engine note… 🙂
If its a little Rich, the engine ‘hesitates’ (gurgles?) on pickup.
If its a lot too rich, it’ll ‘drown’ and stall.You just want to lean it enough so that it doesn’t ‘hesitate’ on
pickup… but not by too much. The throttle response from idle
should be crisp, reaching top revs in less than 1s.(don’t rev your engine unloaded for long periods)
Quote:With the shocks they are oil filled and have team associated pure silicon oil special formula 30 (thats what it says on the bottle), although the front of the car is tilting down a lot and it should be sitting a little higher and the shocks are sinking just a little which is making the front of the car tilt, which i am unsure why it is doing this. I was thinking more of what type of aluminium shocks are good ei. wat springs, shocks, caps all that stuff.You might want to try and rebuild your shocks first.
Ally shocks don’t work all that much better than std plastic oil
shocks, you’d be hard pressed to tell the difference in handling.Shock springs & shock oil weight depends on where you’re running
and what kind of handling you’re looking for. It is up to your own
experience to setup your car, only someone else who runs on the same
track with the same car can give you hints where to start, then
its down to trial-n-error.If in doubt, stick to the factory’s original settings.
There should be “preload collars” that hold the spring down
on the shock body, make sure these are set equally L & R.Generally on a buggy, your tail should be lower than the nose.
A nose-down attitude will give you lots steering, probably too
much and you’ll be doing only donuts. Get the butt end down!Quote:As with the motor i already new that 12 turn was the lowest it could go i ment what brand make good 12 or 13 turn motors that are a good price and dont wear out quickly.There are lots of companies out there that make decent motors.
What’s available at your LHS and for how much??As a rule of thumb, you can find mod motors from A$60 up to A$140+.
The cheap $60 ones are machine wound with bushings.
About the $100 mark will buy you a machine wound with bearings.
Top priced $140+ ones are handwound “factory team” jobs.Something with bearings is probably a better investment, unless
you’re vigilent about oiling your bushings regularly without fail.How long your motor lasts depends on how you treat it. Abuse it
and it could be dead within 1 run, look after it and it will give
years of good service with regular maintenance – your choice.For any mod motor with high revs… you’d probably want to buy
a smaller pinion gear (“gear Down”) compared to the stock motor.
Overgearing a motor will make it overheat. -
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