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@betty.k 226230 wrote:

i got everything jammed together, rc/pc/music center!:smiley10: :8ball:

gee Trent, where’s the Apple ][ monitor?? 😀

pssst! Velodrome 2007 –> Oct 13th

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@Aaron 226211 wrote:

BTW what’s the Crowne Plazas reputation like? It’s nice and all – but I somehow thing it’s not as good as it should be?

probably caters to the gambling crowd more than anything

its no Park Hyatt (west of CBD off Spring St) 😀

for longer stays of a week or more, would be worthwhile checking out
a serviced apartment – pretty good value & lots more space to move around.
Checkout the Sebels or the Quests perhaps.

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4 seasons in the 1hr, that’s Melbourne!

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should have saved yourself $10 by getting the real thing @ TRU 😀

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what i got ppl looking for are 1/10 scale KITTs and Deloreans… 🙂

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@Aaron 226104 wrote:

2nd is something new for us, the very unique and quite uncommon Datsun Sunny utility in 1/10th Scale. Complete with the chassis ready for your motor and electronics package all you need to do is paint up the body in a classic colour and you’re ready to experience a true cult classic vehicle.

Sunny Ute: http://shop.ausmicro.net/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=577

Genetic mini!! nice!

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nah, that 934 is the TamTech Gear size… whole new genre.
Rear wheel drive, inboard front shocks.

Has been out for a while already, checked it out over CNY but chassis
was a little too plasticky for my taste… shell is sweet though.
Was hoping they’d do a orange Jagermeister one – and now they HAVE!!

Its roughly the same size of the #1 Tamiya but body is lexan not ABS.
But its heaps more accessible than the super-expensive official 1/10
Commemorative 934 (TA05 based) which is good for us mortal punters.

2nd shell to come on TTG is the Ferrari 288 GTO.

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@Aaron 226082 wrote:

Spare Silverlit (Genuine) PiccoZ are available direct from Silverlit in the USA. Not CHeap when Toys’R’Us bothers to have them in stock here at AUD39.95

Try http://www.silverlit.com

The spare tail rotors pack is about the same as eBay pricing though.

crazy…

US$25 for Airframe + $10 post
US$5 for 5pk of rotors

… why bother? 🙁 cheaper to just get new!!

Stocks pretty hard to find but got lucky yesterday.
Popped into a TRU and found a blue one.

My 1st one has split a main blade halfway thru… its taped up.

And wierd thing is – it still flies perfectly well!
yeah been flying both back-to-back tonight, no difference

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@Dangerous Dave 226094 wrote:

is the charging circuit also in this PCB, or in the Tx?

think its in the TX, as you can snip the cord and charge the heli direct
using another LiPo-compatible charger

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don’t forget cable!

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@Aaron 226088 wrote:

However it is sending me to Melbourne in a few weeks, So I’m packing Kitty in the hand luggage and heading down a few days early…

let us know when exactly, we’ll take you out!!

will ya be spending a weekend over here too?

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@Kerosene 226051 wrote:

I’ve been flying planes. Too wet and soggy on the ground around here for cars.

dang it Kero, one of these days (sooner rather than later, me hope)
we’re gunna have to arrange to meetup & watch ya fly.

And maybe try get my Red Baron stick thingy airborne too! 😀

… after it gets rebuilt… needs a whole new stick. 🙁

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now that Jun’e QB is over… there’s no other pub hols until Melb Cup (nov) & Xmas!! 🙁

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welcome!

you’re talking the little Xrays? yeah i got ’em – cute machines

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that Futaba thing has been around forever I think,
looks like the ones used in Tamiya Tamtechs in the 80s
and then they were popular in the Kyosho leaning-rider bikes.

They can run off 6cell (or 2s LiPo?! just DIY cutout) and yeah
I’d say the S135 microservo is standard fare.

Its not that small though… nearly size of 2 matchboxes.
These days you can get 1/10 ESCs & RXes with heaps bigger ratings
that take up total realestate less than that imho.

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@icebreaka 225860 wrote:

Hey guys!

Long time no post. but anyway, I got one of these PICOO Z’s today.

and just a HEADS UP. I got it at Target for $33.99 ! 15% off storewide this weekend only! I might grab a few more on Sunday! These things are awesome!

thought the storewide was Thurs-Sat… was in on Wed, found no stock 🙁

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stock PCB does not output “standard” control signals that you can use
to talk to “standard” RC components like ESCs and servos.

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or playing with larger toys… 🙂

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should have taken up a career in MicroSurgery, big guy. 🙂

I’d mod my little flier too, as soon as I can buy a ‘spare’ – gotta be able
to fly anytime, otherwise any downtime cold-turkey would be too traumatic.

Been oiling my bushing with a hypodermic needle.

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@betty.k 225769 wrote:

definately fork out for a quality masking tape, i bought a roll of the fancy yellow tamiya stuff and never had any bleed using it.

I use Tamiya tape too, its great for lines & its very flexible.

However there are occasions with TS paints that the solvent soaks into
the tape and it dulls the earlier paint layer &/or rearranges the particle flake
if its metallic… pretty annoying.

To avoid use double layer & take it off quick, or cover with another tape.
Just leave the edges exposed as its so clean.

I paint more with PS (polycarbonate) anyways and it doesn’t happen there.
hahah NoTHING will take off PS paint…

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sneezed twice, got drafted into a roadtrip to Adelaide over Easter… and hey, its middle of May already.

Gee whiz, what happened to the Birthday Bash?? 😎

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@diehard 225763 wrote:

and would it be stupid to paint the skirts and bumpers with a brush, i really want these to be black

buy the Tamiya “X” bottle paints, they work great brushed
especially SemiGloss Black and Flat black.

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If you want to strip the paint off without damaging the white plastic, just spray EasyOff Oven Cleaner (RED can, must use the caustic one) and wait a few hours – the paint will come off. Reapply if necessary.

Do it in good ventilation, don’t get any caustic stuff on your skin etc etc.

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saw the dragongly thing at the distributor flapping away … didn’t look too controllable… more like a missile when not flapping as seems to have insufficient wing area to glide

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do NOT put drylube into your bearings!

drylube is good for moving parts, especially gears & dogbones
that are exposed so any grease picks up lotsa dirt.

Bearings are *rolling* so there’s no friction; only at the races.
drylube always dries into a solid layer, so you’ll gunk up the rolling action.

I use Trinity purple oil for BBs, or Singer sewing machine oil. Less is more.

… although, local bike shop recently did sucker me into buying a tiny
bottle of “metal treatment” yellow liquid… which I’ve tried on some BBs.
Can’t say they do much more than thin oil, to be honest.

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