ph2t

[ph2t]

smaller can? er, I don’t think so mate. The anima I had was fine, all I needed to do (as aaron says) was move the caps to the area adjacent to the brush tabs…. Maybe I’m wrong. Is the new AWd motors slightly smaller???? bizaaaaaaare…..

Here’s an interesting review of the Nano dragon:

http://p221.ezboard.com/fxmodrcfrm34.showMessage?topicID=182.topic

Also, A, if you start stocking mini inferno parts that would be shaaaaaweeeeeet……

ph2t.

[ph2t]

bloody hell, talk about a couple of oldies, lol…..

so much for thinking I owned the place……..

I must of just hd a bad run with my AWD. Stay away from ATOMIC cvd’s. To say they’re shit is an understatement.

MR-02 all the bloody way baby!!!!!!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Ok, got some testing done. Thanks for the feedback though Hachi (and others!!).

Hachi, I think your plasmatomic might be drawing more current than on average for this type of motor. I ran the following setup in my driveway tonight and yes nelly EVO got warm -> hot but never to the point that I thought it would blow.

The plasmatomic motor really needs to spin freely, the reaming out mod that is done on the endbell bearing is really important to ensure there’s no binding in the can. Even when it is reamed out sufficiently, you still need to ensure it will spin freely.

I’ve had plasmatomics in the past that whilst clear the bearing for space, seem to pull more current than other plasmatomics (I’ve made a few in my time, lol……). This can do with the machine winding process when the armature is wound at the factory or the amount of pressure the brushes place on the comm.

At times I’ve needed to “tweak” the tension in the brushes to ensure they don’t force themselves up too much against the commutator. This can have an adverse affect on current draw and top speed.

So there’s a few different things that could happen to the plasmatomic to make it the current hungry beast it is, lol…

Saying all this I have run the PN Anima motor with nelly EVO with the following combos and Nelly EVO was fine.

4 cells nimh, 4.8v @ 800mAh
2S lipoly, 7.4V @ 700mAh
3S lipoly, 11.1V @ 450mAh

In all these cases Nelly EVO survived. The PN Anima motor survives OK except in the 3S (11.1v) case where the brushes self destruct quite quickly due to the immense amount of heat generated. (Yes, the xmods EVO EP can easily take 11.1V but the steering is jittery, yet usuable, lol… more on that in another post soon……).

I know of one motor that will blow the Nelly EVO, a 17 turn!! crazy motor called the XP2PLE from undergroundxmods.com (site is down so I can’t give you a link). This motor is designed only for Lipoly setups.

Anyways I’m testing this against that motor…..

Should be beefy enough, lol……

ph2t.

[ph2t]

very nice, very strong…

the only thing I broke that day was the antenna tube!

[ph2t]

PandaBear wrote:

Methink you should move to Melbourne [:)] and open
a 1:1 speedshop + cafe to tinker with with big toys.

but leave some space for the 1:18 / 1:28 buggers…………… 🙂

[ph2t]

That’s most likely 25K RPM at 2.4V (2 x AA batteries as intended for Mini-4WD). Put 4 x AAA’s (4.8V) = lost more RPMS!!!!!

[ph2t]

Great stuff L! Thanks for sharing………..

[ph2t]

Hey Hachi, I’ve tested the nelly EVO on many combo’s using hot motors and AWD setups.

I use my anima/lipoly/nelly EVO/AWD setup a lot and recently I’ve put 11.1V (3S lipo) through it and it’s fine. It may be a dud mosfet on the PCB since it should NOT get that hot.

I know of one bloke that fried his nelly EVO running PX’s xp2le motor and a lipoly 2S (7.4V) setup. That xp2le motor is 17 turns though!!!!

I will put a plasmatomic through my EVO setup today and let you know. IT’s OK if it gets warm to very warm. that will happen. But if it’s getting VERY hot VERY quickly, then yes, some thing is amiss….

Worse comes to worse I can send you out another dude and you just send me back the nelly that’s playing funny buggers…..

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I hope this is a good move for you dude. 9 years should give you a healthy little lump sum to help tide things over until you get another job. IT administration work is always available, being a big boss manager that you are, lol, you should be able to find gainful employment. MY only advice is get that resume up to date and start pimping it on seek.com. (If that’s the path you wish to take of course……)

best of luck and fingers crossed!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Max discharge of 2C for 650mAh capacity gives you a rating of (approx) 1.3A. Not enough, the plasmatomic will draw up to 8A on a 7.4V setup under load (ie: from takeoff)…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

get them here mate:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_21_150&products_id=14328

let me know when you go ahead, I’ll post some detailed pics of the servo/servo pot connections….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

damn, that climbs like a mofo….. very nice…..

How much does a setup like that cost dude?

ph2t.

[ph2t]

It should be fine. The grappy speed 300 (6V version) is an excellent motor.

Just install it and run it without any load and keep your finger on the fets/heatsink. If it gets hot quickly, then remove the motor. If it doesn’t then give it a go installed but still free standing. If it’s still ok, then do a few runs without any hard breaking/stopping/starting. If it survives that then you should be fine.

A couple things to do to the grappy to make it even better. (learnt from my RC18T days….).

Oil the bushings on each side.
Break the motor in for 30 – 60 minutes using 2-3 AA’s.

Good luck dude!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

lol, no worries! 🙂

[ph2t]

very nice A, very nice…..

[ph2t]

yeah, defiantely an MR01.

Paul, if you can, save up and buy an MR02 mate. you will find it is superior to the MR01 in MANY MANY ways…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

@merc, ride hieght is similar to mini-z’s mate, a bit more clearance though. It’s adjustable on the suspension arms, the usual screw adjust will do it. I’ve left min riding high. Works well over your typical concrete. I’ve run it up and down my driveway with no problems. Also run it at Betty’s with no issues there either.

@rcs2die4, plastic is VERY strong man. Very strong. I’ve head butted a few things with it and the OTHER part comes out worse, lol… the gear mesh is OK, I can see it still wearing out in the long term. ie: the pinions are crap moreso than the diff. I ‘ve found that the problem is in the mounting post, it’s just one screw with no alignment buttress on it, ie: the mount will twist with the screw when tightening it! Strengthen the mount and it will help.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Yeah, the drivetrain is a hassle, but so far so good. I actually did this a while ago and it’s been sitting here, waiting to be posted…..With everything else going on at the moment I’m lucky to get this info up, lol….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Jollyboos, this thread is 16 pages for a reason. The plans and details are all in this thread…..

[ph2t]

kevsta wrote:

Here’s a link to a spur gear cover that should stop all the crap from getting into an rc18t. A bit pricey… but think of all the gears you can save.

http://www.drivenpro.net/index.php?s=store&pn=101

man I wish they had that out when I had my 18T, I might of held onto it. the quicktime movie on that page is just mad!!!!!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Welcome jollyboss!

1)It should be OK, they may get warm-> hot though. With a plasmatomic I would only run li-poly, not li-ion, they can’t hanlde the current draw.

2)Yes there are. External turbos like nelly and spider are more efficient than MOSFET stacking. Also, stacking mosfets introduces other performance issues on some micro RC models.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Excellent stuff! Well when you’re ready there’s a handfull of us in Melb that would be up for a race, convincing the mrs is another thing altogether!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

yeah, go the T or a Half8 (I just got one, yeah!!!!!!!!).

The 18T was good but suffered from a serious design flaw of have an open spur gear / pinion gear mesh. Got all sorts of crap in it. even xray’s M18T suffers the same prob.

the mini-t has a plastic cover over the slipper/gear setup so it’s much more resilient to stones and stuff.

Good luck Kero, hope to see some of your signature onboard videos mate!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

man this place has gone to shit now……….

[ph2t]

What do you need to know?

The best antenna for 1/64 stuff is to use a guitar string antenna. Best reception and range.

ph2t.

[Author]

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