ph2t

[ph2t]

sad arse…….:approve:

[ph2t]

She’s a one way street man! Ain’t no turning back! :p

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Thanks man, I sorta missed somewhere that you attached the plate at a right angle! Sorry about that…. Looking good! I’m gonna focus on getting my new monster bit of mine running first then I’ll tackle the rear suspension…

For all you guys out there wondering what betty is talking about with publicity check dis out….

http://www.bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpForum/viewtopic.php?t=2841

Wanted to get some input from those pimps across the deep blue pond..

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 27 December 2003 00:43:16

[ph2t]

Ok then, moving along to a TOMY chassis I’m now modding this chassis keeping in mind the end application.

Now, I don’t know how everyone does their internal dual cell mods but I’m keeping well away from the front end. The mistake on the last chassis was that I removed the screw mount area from the steering assembly under the misguided reason that I could get more room this way (it did get more room, but now under monster bit conditions, the front wheels pop out all the time). So I’ve now focused on getting the room in the chassis for the daul cell mod by dremeling out the rear half of the chassis.

Here you can see that I’ve ground out the rear plastic wells that seated the original battery. I’ve also lost the charging contacts, doing a custom connector with this chassis.

Here you can see that the batts fit perfectly. I want to use 200mah rated batts to get the longest runtime I can ’cause when playing with the 1st prototype I made there was never enough time to enjoy, the darn thing kept running out of charge to quickly…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Just one question man (more to do with the TOMY chassis). How do you affix the hplate to the motor housing when the rear axle needs a clear path to be able to snap in?

I noticed in this shot on your TOMY chassis
http://community.webshots.com/s/image3/9/16/23/104291623iVZwlk_ph.jpg
that the connection is very thin. Have you found a way to better secure it yet? Or does it work like a treat?

Also, what suspension solution do you have in mind for the front end?

And another idea dude, you should check out the rear suspension design of a mini-z, the hplate concept is implemented on the Z’s as well BUT they also have a damper spring/shock setup on the top of the chassis to counter and sharp “up motion” forces that the hplate can’t handle.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I think the main reason for the growing popularity is the fact that now you can take these little buggers outside and enjoy the open road, lol!

Can’t wait to finish my monster using the legit TOMY chassis…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

That was a typo man, it was 8.25:1 ratio, sorry.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Very nice man, very nice. use img in lowercase instead of then the pics will show up.

eg:

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 26 December 2003 09:36:54

[ph2t]

My main present was a new victa lawnmover:

Pretty cool, get to crank tha bastard up today! Subtle hint from my rellos on what I should be doing in the garden. Our old one seized up last month. Also got the usual clothes/stuff for the house crap……

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Merry Christmas Punks!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

@ rcmart.com they are $157USD, but what’s the cost of shipping? that’s what it’s all about. Damn, I sooo want one of these…..

now, if I could only sucker more people into giving my paypal money! hmmmmmmmm…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Thanks man, I’ve come to a point now where I can’t seem to improve the steering any more. I’m also having issues with the integrity of the front end. Due to the dual cell history of this chassis, the steering mount isn’t as secure as I’d like it and now under these extreme conditions the wheels seem to come off their mounts more frequently.

I’m gonna take the plunge and redo the whole thing on a TOMY chassis…

ph2t.

[ph2t]

lookin pretty mad there man, what sorta putty you using ?

ph2t.

[ph2t]

oh, ok then, didn’t realise…..

[ph2t]

I like what you’ve done brendan. How does it handle?

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Found that 3 springs is a bit hard, hmmm, what to do…..

What is better? Adding an extra magnet or adding extra coils? Which one will create a greater force of pull?

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

ph2t the woman in the background doesn’t look all that impressed. Man, I know what you mean about figuring out whether tyres are rubber or placcy with out opening the toy. Nice work, that is my plan for my scale racer, when Bithed come thru with the merch! Also maybe the best thread name ever!

Edited by – Pork_Hunt on 24 December 2003 06:57:27

lol dude, my wife is used to small, fast moving objects flying around the floorboards at home. It’s good to see I’m not the only sad case when it comes to sussing out toys….:p

anyways, here’s some more play-by-play.

Sofar I had only one steering spring in there, the car would turn but it would take a while to straighten. Then if it went into boost all hell would brake loose. I added an extra spring and got better results, but still not enough for what I wanted.

So I’m at three springs now. I’m using a clone steering arm that came with this (now to be) handy white disc that ensures the springs don’t fly off. With one spring it’s not really needed, but with 3 springs I happy to have it!

Time to add the independent front end suspension, lol….

Out to the backyard I go…..

To re-iterate betty’s comments, DO THIS MOD! It is way fun and adds a whole level of sadness to grown men playing with toys!

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 24 December 2003 13:13:52

[ph2t]

Quote:

so you’ve basically stuck the big wheels on top of bcg wheels yeah? did you have to make a new pin for the front wheels?:8ball:

nah, I dremeled out the inside of the front wheel nubs so the pin had room to spin freely. I then put superglue around the rim of the new wheel and glued this to the outer side rims of the original bit wheel. This is a sort lazy way to go but it worked. It also solved the problem of the front wheels hitting the chassis when turning. Because the wheels are so far out, a full left or right turn happens without a problem.:)

ph2t.

[ph2t]

For betty and leon:

here’s some pics detailing how I connected the tyres/rims.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

I think a 12:1 gearing will be better for this. Because ur current setup is really for alota top speed.
And the best place to drive this baby is on a gravel road!!! Or just off the walk path.

Edited by – leonli17 on 24 December 2003 00:32:50

I was thinking that when I built it. I had the green and blue geared axles in front of me and in the end I thought that if it works and all is cool I would end up kicking myself for not getting a little bit more speed. Seriously dude, you gotta see this thing take off in 100% boost mode, it freakin flys!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

that’s good to hear dude.

man this thing is fun. just with the new shoes this thing works like magic over concrete. once I get the suspension in she will be one smooth ride!

yeah!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Now that I’e posted this I think it’s wrong??? Isn’t the 12:1 gear the lowest topspeed but highest accel one? Therefore the 8.25:1 is the higest topspeed but lowest accel?

Now I’m confused…..:sad:

[ph2t]

Quote:

ok here ya go matt,

http://community.webshots.com/album/106094679KMdEPg

as you can see, i’ve cut between the transfer gear hole and the pcb ‘wall’ downwards. then i go at a 45 degree angle towards the front, so it just cuts into the pcb wall. then i turn it upside down and cut straight down, through the charging plate til i meet up with the second cut:8ball:

Thanks for that mate, I appreciate it. Now I don’t have to think for myself! Do you have any issues with the intermediate gear coming off during operation?

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Kit racer gears I think, not sure. My gears come from the GS-03 gear set:

*edit – copy from a website*

This gear set allows you to adjust factors such as top speed and acceleration. Comes in three different ratios:

12:1 – for increased acceleration

9.86:1 – for an all round medium top speed and acceleration

8.25:1 – for increased top speed

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 24 December 2003 00:09:00

[ph2t]

I went to a store called “the warehouse” and got a crapy $4 diecast dune buggy car from there. It was a lucky find cause most of these cheapo toys have plastic wheels.

Damn, you feel dodgy trying to not rip the packaging on the toy whilst checking the toy car to see if it’s got plastic or rubber wheels(sad).

bettster, at what position do you cut the rear motor assembly away from the chassis man? I was looking at it tonight and I’m not %100 sure. Do you have a close enough pic of that TOMY chassis you’ve done so I can have a squizz?

ph2t.

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