ph2t
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nah, it’s not an issue man. With the front wheels out so wide the arc the wheels turn never extends long enough for them to rub up against the chassis. The steering knuckles hit first as per normal function.
ph2t.

We’ll I rebuilt the front end using matched steering knuckles this time, doh! I had issues with the steering that pretty much caused the car to lock into a very tight left turn when I went into boost mode. I’ve now fixed this and the steering is also more responsive. I believe one of the steering knuckles was sitting tighter in the housing that the other one.
Here you can see the new front end, whilst it doesn’t look heaps different if you compare it with the pics from the previous pages in this thread you will notice a difference.

I have also started fitting a pcb cover to the chassis. In the end I removed the big black 100uF capacitor and replaced it with surface mount version on the underside of the pcb. This gave me more room to work with on the topside. Only the 220uH inductor and tuned coil are now in the way and that ain’t so bad. I will mod a pcb cover to suit. You can see from below how the cover sits and it’s profile.

I still have to put frontend suspension in. I wanted to try it without the springs to ensure I had the steering arc and return springs functionality working properly first.
ph2t.
dude, you need to fix the tyres and rear azle as we spoke about earlier. Put that list together and PM me…
cheers.
ph2t.
lol dude, wtf happened there!!??!!
hope you’re treating the chassis with a lot more respect than the shell, lol…:smiley2:
ph2t.
OK then, I think I’ve just found the lowest ratio setup ever.
This is from a Smartland MCV “Tank”
Motor pinion gear is 7 teeth, outer cog on idler gear is 16 teeth.
This ratio is 16/7 = 2.29Inner cog on idler gear is 11 teeth, rear axle gear is 19 teeth.
This ratio is 19/11 = 1.73Putting both reductions together gives me:
2.29 x 1.73 = 3.95
Therefore the resultant gear ratio is 3.95:1!!!
Now that’s a low ratio. The lack of power in this ratio is evident in that the Smartland MCV vehicles work only on very smooth surfaces, they have no “get up and go” power on carpet, etc.
Very interesting!
ph2t
betty, email me the video man and I’ll host it for you…..
:approve:ph2t.
cool, I always wanted to know! now I can go and figure out my mini tank’s gear ratios…..
thanks mate!
:approve:
ph2t.
I’m in fellas, I also think that the site should not offer anything to it’s paid members that detracts from the non-paid members.
Things like:
no site advertising
increased picture gallery
username is noted as a “paid” member
minimum contribution levelare all good things I’d like to see.
cheers,
ph2t..
great work dude! you gotta see if you can take video with the digital camera, most camera’s allow that these days.
ph2t.
get some video dude, please please please!
This was me new years day.

Bourbon is NOT your friend!
ph2t.
good to hear Z…..what do you think of the perfection clone?
z, yeah I’m still working on this man. Had a hickup with the front lights intruding on the chassis. you’ll see it soon I promise…..
twizm, there’s not an issue with colour from the outside. you could colour it all black if you want. If I was to do this the 2nd time around I would of used a solid(and opaque) primer instead.
ph2t.
bloody technology, it’s no good I say!

that’s an interesting suggestion micro, hmmm…
I was thinking of how you would apply a wire reinforcing frame to the plastic one, hmmm….
ph2t.
oi! that’s my bloody DDS tape!
😀
ph2t!
you need to d/l the video codec from http://www.divx.com , it’s free.
and it’s Rage against the machine man, “Sleep Now In The Fire”
ph2t.
cool dude, looking good. It will be interesting to see how you pull the rear shock off. Also I notice that this is a daul cell car, is that what the enertec clones are? How fast do they go stock relative to the TOMY Compacts with a 2.2 yellow motor? My daul cell monster hammers on full speed mode and flips very easily (anything 3.0 and above does this). If you could take some video of your car in action that would be cool too!
ph2t.
Ok then, took the monster for a test drive on the concrete out back and she’s showing promise. Got a few things to fine tune but sofar so good!
Here’s some video (Divx format) of the monster in action. Note: she’s a booster so you will notice a distinct difference in speed at times.
Enjoy!
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 28 December 2003 14:04:19
That’s a huge file to download man!
Can you make the resolution smaller, say 320*240 and offer a lower quality (and smaller) version to download?thanks,
ph2t.
post it man, fuck ’em!
ph2t.
that’s correct, you want to put them in parrallel to get any performanec boost.
What I would like to see is this mod done but with the 2nd motor pointing the other way and have a 2nd set of gears involved. This way you will remove any issue with torque spins that I’m sure affects all of us.
ph2t.
Move the tuning coil hey? hmmm, sounds interesting…….
When talking higher value cap we’re talking the uF value. Currently it is a 100uF 10V cap. I would replace it with something the same but at a lower voltage of 6V. I do this for the single reason is that is what I’ve got on hand.:D No other reason. I have some great tantulum SMT caps going up to 330uF that are still smaller than the stock cap. Micro, I’ll update the chassis and show you a pic shortly.
I can only think what a higher value cap would do, the best thing is to try it and see the effects (if any).
Cheers,
ph2t.
Well I ‘ve finished soldering and cutting and prepping. First runs on the floorboards with a 1.6 show promise but i have few issues with some wires being too short, arghh….. I’m gonna replace the 100uF capacitor on there with a surface mount cap of the same (or greater) value just to decrease the headroom. I’ve got plans for an r32 shell and I might need the space! Although it will prolly be raised in the end given the space that is needed by the wheels to turn/operate.
Too late to continue, time to crash……
ph2t.
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