Aaron
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You need to carefully sperate the cross piece from the front mount. Becuase iWaver mounts the bodies differently and GLUE! this piece in it can be hard work, but it can be done. We did it for Kitty’s iW04 and just let the front ends of the cross piece clip into the alloy mount.
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Site Owner Guy.Somewhere between $50 and $100 depending on where you go – average seems about $70…. Not cheap… but shoudl do a few bosies, it’s base colour, the flip colour and the clear
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Site Owner Guy.The Powertech 900s seem salright – not great but alright… Thanks the trade card they can be had at very very reasonable prices 😉
Pete, Hopefully it won’t be too long before you’ve got the toys.. I should be getting the mess sorted by the end of the week, then it;s just delivery time 😉
Dave, go to http://ice.auspost.com.au and trace EE614144553HK ….. It’s in Sydney right now…. I expect it quite soon.
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Edited by – Aaron on 17 January 2005 16:43:44
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Site Owner Guy.What are you after exactly? I’ve checekd the store out and couldn’t get a shipped to AU cost for anything… Remember I’ve got that cheap MR01 going at the moment 😉
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Site Owner Guy.Yes thanks!
Everyone please feel free to post reviews etc of products!
Shocks will definately be in stock this week, I’m tracking them as being somewhere in HK airport at them moment. That’s quite a bit ahead of the dates listed.
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Site Owner Guy.They should all now be listed in the shop as coming items 😉 Mostly refresh of stock of mounts and knuckles, but also bumpers and some new bits and pieces.
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Site Owner Guy.Yup the 7317’s will do the trick – I’m not just saying that because I sell them – but also because I use them! ph2t recently reviewed them as gave them a thumbs up, you can find similar reviews around the other forums too.
We do alloy nuts as well and have plenty of stock at the moment.
Currently I don’t have BB cans and endbells/blushes in the shop but think I have access to a reasonable supply – but won’t be increasing stock much more until after a house move in a few weeks.
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Site Owner Guy.Once we’ve moved house I intend to try the automotive 3 can packs you can buy from Autopro etc.
They’re the real deal in terms of process etc and shoudl give some wild reults on hard bodies….
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Site Owner Guy.I refitted the condoms on the shocks, so they were tight around the top of the shock and piched in place by the mounting screw… This seemed to stop them from (very very occasionally) munching up in the bottom of the spring.
With the screws in metal I don’t why they’re coming out, I think the vibration and being good quality alloy/screws theres not much friction interferance happening… Seeing as they’re upside down well….
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Site Owner Guy.The shock boots work well…. My advice to anyone with alloy bits is to use loctite… Monster is currently in pices while I work out what to do about all the missing screws and balls 🙁
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Site Owner Guy.About 5 coats there. Wouldn’t want to do more really.. At the moment it’s still nice and subtle 😉
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Site Owner Guy.OK trick for the shop 😉
If something doesn’t have an “Add” button in the list, click on the “View” button to get the detailed view. Then you can add the item.
It does mean the item is out of stock but stuff in the lists WILL be delivered to us either soon or we order it on demand. Either way 14 days is the worst it should be.
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Site Owner Guy.No stock – and waiting for some orders to unjam from the christmas shutdown before I start getting in more stock (ie of our 4 main suppliers, 3 have got pending orders that haven’t been processed in a timely manner).
I will double check though because you shoudl be able to add as they’re only every 7-14 days away…
There is a new cart/shop package in the works that vastly improves upon what we currently have.
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Site Owner Guy.*laughs* there is a certain destiny for the car when finished 😉
Front mount is a cut down Lancer mount tab on the body that has the body mount pins from the plastic kit grafted onto it. Essentially the Lancer mount butts up inside the front of the lower edge of the bumper with the internal mount pins actually between the headlights. There is a radiator section visible through the grille that forms the base of the mount.
The colour isn’t so much a colour shift but a pearl (Tamiya Clear Pearl) which just gives sparkle and shine. It’ll look sweet with a good few layers of polish 😉
No further progress unless you count a little more work on the chassis.
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Site Owner Guy.Canon 300D D-SLR, with a f1.8 50mm lens. Handheld which means I ‘lost’ a lot of shots…
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Site Owner Guy.Yes we’re Australian!
Prices int eh shop are AUD and when you check out that’s the final cost at your door!
We have MR01 sets starting at $165 and top out with some of the really nice MR02 at $250
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Site Owner Guy.Nah not your hangover, small bug – a setting flipped on when it should have been off!
Sorry!
Tested and working now!
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Edited by – Aaron on 01 January 2005 18:58:45
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Site Owner Guy.For the 04, go the alloy front damper stay, and the alloy knuckles.
For the 01 go bearings, and carbon H-plates plus some softer tyres. Ball-diff is always good.
Alloy wheelnuts for both!
From then on you start needing to ask yourself how fast you’d like to go and how much you’d like to handle!
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Site Owner Guy.That’s ‘basically’ it. Bodies are a certain swap, wheels are assuming you get them off the 00 without damage (some people have had problems with this).
Motors, pinions, tyres and all useable.
There may be a few other bits around but it’d be more of a try it and see approach…
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Site Owner Guy.Also give ausmicro.com a go at sourcing a Kyosho for you – we can get a lot of the Readysets landed for very very good prices these days (under $200) which in landed at your door terms from an Aussie supplier is damn good 😉
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Site Owner Guy.The pic above repeated in this post….
You can see the sparkles which are silver/gold on the base colour, and the seperate hard-top that will be interchangeable with a soft-top style roof or no roof at all!
Next step will be brush paint the accents, like the headlight & tailight recesses, window framing etc. Then we start putting it all together!
The chassis is now complete with IRF7317 Fetted electronics, ausmicro.com ball-diff, bearing set, purple wheel nuts, and some nice soft rubber.
Not going crazy on the chassis as it’s a “Mx5 static that can be driven rather than a RC MX5”
Hopefulyl a little more will be done before I go back to work on the 4th!
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Site Owner Guy.Well it’s time for an update!
Today I repainted the base colour and got a decent coverage without the bubbling and sag I had before.
It’s come up quite well off-the-can but I’ve really got to get an airbrush and start learning 😉
The Tamiya Pearl gloss clearcoat really added some highlight sparkles which look amazing in real life, but in the pic not so flash…
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Site Owner Guy.Also don’t forget to give ausmicro.com (ie the Shop) a go. We are building up stock and NEED people to tell us what they want in it.
Our prices are usually equivalent to what you’d pay importing from elsewhere and you don’t have all those nasty customs surprises!
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Site Owner Guy.Whelp, 1.5 sets of batteries through it before I broke it….
*sighs*
Aftermarket parts are all very nice – but there’s a few inconsistencies that would be easier fixed if I had the stock parts at hand too…
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Site Owner Guy. -
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