Aaron
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Betty I think you’ll be amazed, we have managed to shave more than 112 square millimetres from the size of the board. So the smallest and lightest turbo in the business is now about 40% smaller.
More when the production boards arrive, but not only have we decreased the size but we’ve also managed to beef up the current handling of the PCB!!
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Site Owner Guy.Well last week officially iWaver finally reimbursed our pre-order cash for the iWaver02M cars we ordered back in May 2006.
They’ve hooked up with a new distributer here in Australia, and I suspect it’ll be yet another failed attempt at the market here, this time starting in Melbourne.
If anyone wants the details you can get them from the iWaver website.
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Site Owner Guy.I’m passing through Sydney on a day trip either Sunday or Monday… Will try to drop in on my way through!
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Site Owner Guy.After just under 1 year in production and many of the Spider v2.0 and v2.1 faimly making it out across the world I’m very pleased to annouce that the world is about to change once more.
Spider v3.0 is due for release in a few short weeks.
Stay tuned for more details.
Small, Light, Deadly: Spider v3.0A.
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Site Owner Guy.*grins* I sorta like that way of thinking Klims, but considering the increased failure risks it’s not really my idea of fun. However it would let us do some interesting things with packaging.
For what it’s worth we only have about 8 left in stock, there won’t be more for at least a month after that becuase there’s something new coming 😉 Let’s just say “Size Matters”…
However the idea of using a 3 chip setup is one that I do find very interesting – especially becuase it would mean that we could still use a 4 chip layout and incorporate a MOSFET driver into the same overall board real estate.
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Site Owner Guy.Once you’re FET’d that’s pretty much right. That’s why I’ve switched to running a digital controlled power supply for testing. It makes the whole testing process much more consistent.
So close to being able to do some real dyno work!
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Site Owner Guy.Different MOSFETs all behave differently. The ones we use for the Mini-Z just seem to trigger and behave like that while some don’t. Years ago I made a thing called an “in circuit transistor tester” and it also worked for most MOSFETs – I have to replace it as it died about 4 years ago, but one of my multi-meters can do it out of circuit so I’ve nto had a mega need.
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Site Owner Guy.Handling was “alright”. Newest changes in the pipeline are a SpiderDS and back to a set of regular plastic camber knuckles to tune the handling some more.
The plastic wheels are now a bit tired looked and I think it’s time for alloys…
That said I’ve pushed it aside with ressurecting my MR01 so it could be a while before more happens.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah, Klims is right the FETs change state when you try to check resistance etc through them. The only way to really test them is to use a “Transistor” tester that works with MOSFETs. It has to be done out of circuit and honestly I think it’s just easier to replace them.
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Site Owner Guy.Well I’ve been doing some more testing and the news is all good. The new FETs are definitely working at least as well as the IRF7317 and markedly better under some circumstances.
The test chassis I’ve been focussing on is my original MR01, now fitted with MR02 PCB and a PN mount holding a pretty normal old-skool custom motor (PN Ultra BB case, Plasma Dash Armature, PN Carbon brushes, PN Neo Magnets, PN Wires). The board had run a 3×2 stack of IRF7317 that had the typical performance we expect from them. The speed checker clocked 51km/h with a 13T and “old” Sanyo Twicells. The new FETs were then popped in (Well actually I had them mounted externally like a turbo) and run using the same batteries, top speed was again 51km/h.
So our difference in outright speed is bugger all as expected. However they do have a higher current rating on the P-Channel, and this is a good thing, and when it came to hooking the chassis up to a non-battery 4.8v supply the real gain became obvious will less current overall being pulled in to get our peak speed reading.
Next test will be to load up the dyno a little bit (simulate running on ground) and basically run for the equivalent of a couple of battery cycles and see if the heat gets to them…
Now that our stock is here you can expect to see them listed in the shop within a few days, and keep reading of the results of further tests here.
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Site Owner Guy.These come in and out of our stock occasionally. We generally buy them through our Japanese supplier who can take 6-8 weeks to source them. I suspect since Kyosho cracked down on the HK sellers of Mini-Z bits most things like this are getting harder to find online, in fact that could be said for most genuine Kyosho parts.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah – a thing I didn’t mention is that the new ones do not contain lead. Important safety consideration right there!
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Site Owner Guy.Not all iWaver/Firelaps have the fake solid servo saver, seems a random thing that they’ve done over the years.
Interesting read though, and while it’s probably not a 100% normal occurence for these to need work out of the box I doubt iWaver has moved forward (most probably backwards) in recent months.
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Site Owner Guy.Once you start sorting out soem finer details let me know – it’s possible I’ll make it down for a day – and may be able to supply soem rpizes 😉
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Site Owner Guy.They’re toys, but the bodies can be converted to Mini-Z duty with the addition of clips etc
Overall they are something that’s “cool” if you just want the old-school kids R/C around the house, or as a donor body they’re pretty damn cheap.
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Site Owner Guy.$160 is a great price for a Skynet (Aoshima) Readyset. As others have said keep the body safe as they’re quite collectable.
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Site Owner Guy.Jamie, ask on the forums at http://www.mcnews.com.au/forum about your dream wheels – they may help with the search
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Site Owner Guy.Klims – the extra torque means you shoudl think about running bigger pinions 😉
That will get speed back up there.
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Site Owner Guy.Welcome aboard!
You’re more than welcome to post jokes/humor in the General chat forum, it’s basically a social friendly free-for-all…
🙂
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Site Owner Guy.jollyboss wrote:I have a couple of question about external turbos…
1)which are the key differences beetween the spider and the EVO stacked nelly?Is it just a: “more $$$—>more powerful” or is there any relevant issue?There’s a little difference, for a start ausmicro.com doesn’t make a stacked product. We have drawn up a design for one but at the moment it’s in testing only.
However, we have built stacked units and have found good performance from them, some of our resellers have had them for testing and reported no problems either.
So at the moment we can custom to stacked Spiders, but they’re special order.
The advantge with stacking is you drop the restance even more. A Nelly EVO and a Spider would be basically identical in performance, but a stacked version of either is another increment even faster.
jollyboss wrote:2)I’d like to buy one of these ones to mount on my EVO xmods with a 7,4V lipoly pack,the questions are:can I still youse the EB for the neons and lights plugs?Do I need to mount any resistor on anywhere?What about the servo?Thanks for explanations!
Yes you can still use the onboard sockets for stuff. At 7.4V I doubt anythign will fry on the EVO board, we’ve heard of people running 11.1V packs without dropping resistors, but in all honesty we here at ausmicro.com don’t play with LiPo and LIon at all, ph2t is definitely your man for delving into all that stuff. Our Spiders are rated up to 12v so there’s no problems there, but as with everythign actual performance will depend on the battery, the motor and the gearing.A.
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Site Owner Guy.We wish – I’ve got to update the store listings as iWaver has b=pushed back the launch date… Again….
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Site Owner Guy.The 750mAh Intellect AAA are rated at a 5A discharge rate, which used to be considered pretty good among AAAs when we started stocking them.
That’s over 6.5CThese days it seems there’s still basic rules of thumb,
700-800 cells are the sweet spot for maximum discharge,
Japanese made cells are typically better that Chinese etc – although that’s less and less true.
Each car motor and driver combo will find differences in the same cells, smoother throttle users on good surfaces will not notice a lcak of punch as much and a driver who is constantly jumming open the throttle and calling upon maximum acceleration etcA.
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Site Owner Guy.Pricewise – they’re a fairly boutique breed, and the price reflects the exclusivity and our considerable investment (Topaz, the mum is a four figure pussy cat), and it would certainly be an expensive Sweet’n’Sour 🙂
Seriously prices start around the $1K point and go up. Once they’re a little older we’ll be able to assess the markings against the breeds desired features and establish pet/show status for them.
The price does include desexing, microchipping, registration with the Coordinating Cat Council of Australia under our breeder prefix “Kitty Ranch”, a blankie, Kitten starter pack (Litter, food samples, a lovely blankie and unlimited phone support) 🙂
As for aus**** websites, ausHobby, ausMicro, ausUncovered are in for now. We’re getting spread a bit thin capital wise starting up the latest two at the same time so we’ll have to work hard to get them established, stocked and running ASAP.
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Site Owner Guy.Bengals come in a number of colours:
Snow (the white and soft gingerish tones to the spots)
Marble (Large marbled colours – mostly black and dark ginger)
Spotted (Ginger with dark spots)
And a few combos like Sepia Spotted. Our Queen (the Mum) is a Sepia Spotted Snow.ph2t, the link is safe 😉 I’s just underwear 😉
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Site Owner Guy.Yes, they are for sale, we are a registered breeder of Bengals.
You’d have more luck at http://shop.aushobby.com or http://www.ausuncovered.com
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