Aaron
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Kyosho are getting like iWaver 😉
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Site Owner Guy.I’m fairly sure zero degree.
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Site Owner Guy.Yep, the iWavers are mucho improved compared to what they used to be. The IW02 we’re seeing now are very good out of the box, and when the new IW02M arrive they’re (we’ve been promised) a leap again.
We do have the Genuine Kyosho and the iWaver 02 RTR (Ready to Run) sets in stock at the moment, and really it does come down to a choice of budget. The iWaver is a great entry level, get familar with teh scale etc and enjoy it. The Kyosho is twice the price and if you don’t enjoy the scale then there’s more “lost” if you know what I mean?
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Site Owner Guy.The Sanyo 1000mah ain’t bad at all either. Been using those for a while while great results.
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Site Owner Guy.I’ve gone double sided – it works quite well – either way it’s done there’s definately a little bit more performance out there by stacking 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.I’ve gone double sided – it works quite well – either way it’s done there’s definately a little bit more performance out there by stacking 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.Barossa Valley? Was over that way a few weeks ago.
Anyways, I’ve got a couple of Xmods here, but we use them mainly to do the electronics development on rather than racing or hopping up.
ph2t probably has a pretty mean running car though 😉
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Site Owner Guy.Barossa Valley? Was over that way a few weeks ago.
Anyways, I’ve got a couple of Xmods here, but we use them mainly to do the electronics development on rather than racing or hopping up.
ph2t probably has a pretty mean running car though 😉
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Site Owner Guy.Added a couple more MA010 shaft options
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Site Owner Guy.Added a couple more MA010 shaft options
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Site Owner Guy.Yep, there will be more comparisons as I get parts and stuff. I’ll also try to weight stock parts.
It’s going to be a long process to make an authorative list, but that’s the goal of this thread…
The tough thing is that while I’d like to weigh all the hop-ups we stock, noone likes buying opened packs. 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.Yep, there will be more comparisons as I get parts and stuff. I’ll also try to weight stock parts.
It’s going to be a long process to make an authorative list, but that’s the goal of this thread…
The tough thing is that while I’d like to weigh all the hop-ups we stock, noone likes buying opened packs. 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.As you can see the majority of hop-ups tested so far are heavier than the stock parts. However this doesn’t take into account the improved rgidity, strength, durability and precision of hop-ups.
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Site Owner Guy.As you can see the majority of hop-ups tested so far are heavier than the stock parts. However this doesn’t take into account the improved rgidity, strength, durability and precision of hop-ups.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah same place. The office we looked at was on the second floor on th East (left) side of the yellowish building. Way too expensive though.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah same place. The office we looked at was on the second floor on th East (left) side of the yellowish building. Way too expensive though.
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Site Owner Guy.Ouch! Hopefully those part I sent arrive soon!
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Site Owner Guy.*pffft* 🙂
You say that like it’s a bad thing :p
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Site Owner Guy.Call me a bit slow but I finally stuffed all the parts into the new Clear Blue chassis. I think the real motivator was sending off most of the original rear section to a member.
Anyways here’s an update on my awd.
First new part into the fray was a carbon centre shaft. I dropped it onto the scales and it weighed in at a masive 0.34g. The stock shaft was a massive 1.81g. To me this indicates I’ve significantly reduced the rotating mass of the shaft which in turn should improve acceleration of the drive train.
I’ve flicked the stock drive shafts and replaced them with genuine Kyosho alloy shafts. The alloy shafts are a very neat design and while they may not reduce weight they seem a more precise build and run smoother.
I’ve switched to the PN racing heatsink motor mount clip and the PN racing alloy motor mount plates (Still A1/B1).
PN Racing knuckles have been installed all round the car and slide smooth.
The diffs have been replaced with silver TopCad ball diffs. These needed to be adjusted for smooth running and look great against the blue of the chassis.
Anyway enough of the blurb.
On with the pics.
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Site Owner Guy.Woohoo! It works!
*grins*
Now you can all see the drab surrounds!
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Site Owner Guy.Kero, I run the GT3 on my AWD as a beater shell. It’s pretty good with wide rears on. Although since switching to the alloys it’s all Narrow again.
The new ones are magic looking shells.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah, they are Narrow. The 935 has bigger wheels than a regular “Z” though.
I’ve ordered some White bodies of these as well so I can work on a little project.
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Site Owner Guy.I’ve not had a chance to add the Ally mounts tot he shop inventory yet. But, which part on the AWD is broke? the Knuckle? the Arm? etc the rear section of my original chassis is in great condition and I could probably send you a spare from it 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.*laughs* Thanks for the tip. The Skyline hasbroken servo gears on every outing when running a warm – hot motor. The steering is set up with a bit of toe for stability and it really seems to load up hard on cornering. Shame becuase it handles nice for an ’01, is pretty damn fast and overall a very simple car.
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Site Owner Guy.All the above GPM parts have arrived and we’re about to commence assmebly. It should be looking very mean, very silver and be running smooth with a couple of days.
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