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your monster truck looks even better upclose, hey Peter, you should think about extending the length of the chassis and put some even bigger size wheels on that. That would be awesome.
hehe thanks.
yeh, I lowered the front end by cutting a similar sized notch just above the original notch on the front end. It makes the back end look raised but it really isn’t. I tried lowering the back end but I would have to increase the rear tire well for clearance. If I can find a way to use wider tires, my next mod will be flairing out the wheel wells.
I guess mine (silver Honda s2000 57 mhz) doesnt have one on the top nor the bottom then cuz I looked really careful but couldnt find it. But anyway, I’ll be waiting for those pics with interest. Thanks fastburro
hopefully that’s the same system as the Bachmann system. The springs I saw were just a pack of springs, nothing else. I promise next time the wife drags me to the mall, I’ll get the name and numbers off of it. 🙂
Tiburon;
I’ve got it all put back together, or I’d take some pics. It is extremely easy to identify, however. I think that I remember that it was the only capacitor mounted on the bottom, it is marked 10 for 10pF, and is soldered with very short leads to the 2.2Ohm(red-red-gold) resistor lead on the bottom and the ground plane. just clip off the capacitor and you’re done.
If I get some time I’ll try to take the controller apart and take some pics.
Mark
hey prabbit. so if your 3.0 is maxed and cannot take anymore juice. what about the 2.2 in the booster car when on boost. are they frying the motor since the booster runs a 2.2 faster than a normal bit char w/2.2? when on boost. my regular bit char’s performance actually gets “soggy” after a few minutes. my slow car w/ 1.0 runs decent for 3-4 minutes and then crappily for 2 more minutes. must be the battery being messed up. let me know. b
that’s an awesome convertible, did you lowered the front? if you did, how did you do it? btw, your travel case is really cool too…..
chances are yours doesn’t have one then?
check the list posted on page1 with yes/no’s for each car…
Shard
i saw those pics already, but fastburro said if you can’t a cap on the top, look at the bottom.
Hey fastburro, I took out my PC board too but I dont see any 10uF capacitor on the other side though.
Ok my Spec Ed Castrol Skyline ? 35 MHz had the capacitor and I removed it no probs.
tiburonGT: pics are located here:
http://www.ausmicro.com/technical/bitcharg/transmitter-range-mod/index.htm
hey fastburro, is it possible for you to get some pics of the bottom of the circuit board to show where that capacitor is located?
nope i haven’t found anything about results yet…
taiyo also makes the radi-book. it costs more than the radi-can. almost double, but comes with a better controller and may be the mini-z equivalent. b
I have a booster set and with the 2.2 boosted it doesn’t beat my 3.0 and even with the 3.0 it barely keeps up with it. I dunno how yours is so fast but, well, i guess the only thing to ask is…………WANNA TRADE?? Lol aight well i guess you are pretty lucky, cherish it. Dave
wow….after reading all these posts, I really feel like digging out my Physics book I used last year to review all those electricity and magnetism concepts, cuz they seems very useful when it comes to enhancing the performance of my bit. Hey Peter, you are not boring to listen to, I learned alot from all your previous post, keep up the good work!
bit plane….. hard part is creating the flaps to control lift and turning. probably can make on that goes straight though.
i guess it is time to order about 6 bullets for when crazy people (like prabbit) pioneer these things. b
man, check this out.
http://www.planetinternet.be/pixel/
a 4 oz helicopter. yes, the chick is real. (chick as in chicken, not female 🙁 )
actually a heli is hard if one was to do it correctly. a pseudo one is possible where the rotor does not tilt. maybe one rotor to lift and another on the tail almost parallel to the ground + slightly tilting forward which you would turn on to tilt the copter forward and then the main rotor would pull it forward. unless you use the steering mechanism (bit char) to pull/shift weights/coils closer from front or back to make the copter tilt. of course the hardest part is making the damn rotors that would create enough lift. oh well. we can dream right? b
What about battery life on these things? THey use 2 batteries for the remote, and 2 for the car right? how long do the batteries last before the performance is just to weak?
Yep the gears are exactly the same. It makes me wonder if the Special Edition bits are faster than my RX-7 too.
Yep, I agree. PUT HARD TIRES ON FRONT. This gives larger turning radius at high speeds and small radus when going slow. The bit racer tires fit perfetcly
Hard in front and soft in back is the only way to go. I wish they made even a harder front tire.
-Peter
haha damn thats a sick idea bdrift. You could make a bus or a fat bed truck, SIXTEEN WHEELER!
dang, hella work. Ok cool, yeah my guess was hot wheel cars, thanks for all the tips though. thanks dj i’ll email you.
A powerful magnet did the trick. It was filled with tiny metal shavings.
Thanks!
Found it. Or one of them anyway. This package contains enough springs for 6 cars at under 5 bucks. “Kadee” brand also makes them, but couldnt find the part number on thier site.
“Micro Trains” Brand Small Parts Packet -#1029… $4.30 pkg
Filled with spare parts for #1023 & #1025 N-Scale Magne-Matic? Couplers.
Package contains:
3 draft gear boxes & lids
12 coupler centering springs<- Must be this
12 truck restraining springs <- Or this
3 coupler shanks
6 00 x 90 x .187″ screws
6 00 x 90 x .112″ screws
3 bolster bushings 3 bolster washers
3 bolster pins
1 coupler instruction sheet
12 coupler trip pinsdeejay40
Look at the second post and that will explain why it doesn’t have 11-13 turns. It was way out of the question unless i wanted to use a 1.0 but me and my friends use 3.0s and turbo 2.2 with acceleration gears and its still prety hard. Dave
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