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My track is my 4′ X 8′ felt pool table top. It works great! I laid out some heavy rope in whatever configuration I want and it works great as a rail. I also made some jumps and bumps out of cardboard. It looks a bit ugly but the cars do well on it. I’ll have to paint the jumps or something. I’ll take a pic sometime. The big jump is about 1 and 1/2 car heights tall and has an angled landing. The cars land about 1 whole car length away from the top of the jump. It helped when I put the jump right after a hill so they have full speed after coming off the downhill part of the hill.
The pool tablefelt is a perfect driving surface. With hard tires on front the steering is just right.
-Peter
This might be real interesting for Drag Racing….
:smiley4:
I’m going to leave the original motor alone. The second motor will drive the same gear as the original but be mounted up and forward of the original.If you look at themid gear now the original motor drives it at about 2 O’clock. the second motor will be at about 10 O’clock.I’ll have to cut a little plastic around the middle gear and some plastic around the area between the motor and pc board but I think it will fit. I’m not worried about sincronization since they will be wired in parallel and both be spinning the same direction and spinning the same gear on a solid axle. Shouldn’t pose a problem.
The Bit race axle was easy to modify. You only need to lengthen the distance between the inner plastic thrust areas. Stick one wheel in a regular drill and chuck it only hand tight as not to damage the plastic wheel. Spin the drill and use a dremel to shave off a little bit from the non geared wheel inside face. You could use a sharp razor blade to trim it down and then put it in a drill and use fine sand paper or a nail file to make it flat if you don’t have a dremel. You don’t have to take off much but it should be flat and smooth sinch that surface mates up to the car around corners. Then it just snaps in. You use the two red gears and the white gear on the motor.
You’ll have to walk with the car or else it will get out of range before hitting top speed. You should also be using a 2.2 or 2.6 motor. the 1.0 is too weak to get up to speed.
Good Luck, let me know what you think. Imagine that speed with dual motoracceleration! I can’t wait.
-Peter
Antennas area pretty tricky thing. Theoretically they are supposed to be of a certian length based on frequency. Generally, the lower the frequency the longer the antenna. However, I don’t think that’s the case with these cars. I think they are such low power that they just rely on a wire to get the signal as high as possible and that’s it. I took the antenna off my regular r/c car (about 1 meter long) and touched it to my antenna and held it up high and got an extra 2 meters out of it.
I unsolderd the antenna from the pc board n the car and soldered on a piece of industiral grade CAT-5 wire. This wire is solid copper (phone wire would work too but it must be solid copper) That almost doubled my range! It used to be 5 to 6 meteres but now it’s 9 meters. I also left the wire a little longer then stock. I’d be willing to be if you left the wire twice as long you’d get a little better range. Also, have you noticed if you hold the antenna straight up with your had you get a little extra something.
I don’t know what phone antennas you’re talking about but if it’s the corkscrew looking ones that might be a good idea. Those are designed to throw the waves up high. You might find that pointing that at the car instead of straight up will help but then again, it’s probably not as long as the original antenna either wich might hurt.
Antennas, at this low of a wattage are kind of a trial and error type thing. You can’t go wrong trying everything you can. You can’t hurt the transmitter by trying all kinds of antennas.
Good luck. Keep us posted on what you find.
-Peter
Let us know how it turns out….!
I am a little leary of a long run time. As the motors were developed for cell phones, beepers. And thus only meant for a short period of activity. I wonder if it will burn them out quicker if you havea longer run times without a break.:smiley5:
To me, it seems these motors are hit and miss when it comes to quality…
-Floyd
So you took off some of the gearing, or extended the Bit Racer axel, then?(What did you use to do this btw?) As they won’t fit on stock Bit Char G’s without modification.
Just curious. AS I have the Bit Racer Gearing set. and would like to know the easiest/best route to take.
-Floyd
ps. How you planning on synchronizing the two motors, and where are you placing them?
One infront of the gear, one behind? I hope the difference in the push/pull ratio doesn’t hinder it more.
looks like e have plenty of battery suppliers so i would say that he mision is complete. But will they work?
Quote:I am going the same way as derek went with all his stuff, but my track design will be awesome.So, is this to say Dereks was somewhat L E S s than awsoome? :smiley3: :smiley2: :smiley8:
Just kidding ya, Dave.
Post some pics soon!
-Floyd
Ok well i started and first just drew the layout on the polystyrene and tried to drive it and i was amazed. It’s a lot harder than it looked, so i calmed the track down A LOT!! now it’s still pretty nice but not even close to as challenging as it would have been. I cut everything out and then started to paint but ran out of paint. So now i have to wait til monday when i get back from mexico and buy paint and finish. I’ll keep you guys posted. Dave
Yea i found that tinyrc.com are getting a lot of visits for their tips and tricks section of just putting two LEDS where the headlights are then just hooking them up to a small battery, the simplest plainest thing ive ever seen. But this tops the light catagory off, can’t wait to see it. Dave
I’m not necessarily looking for more run time but longer peak time. Have you noticed if you charge it up twice it runs really fast for about a minute then fades to what I call normal speed. I’m hoping to get peak speed for a few minutes with NiMH
-Peter
I’m thinking the remote charger will take forever to charge these things up. I’m going to measure the current the remote puts out to charge (probably around 20mA) and maybe make a charger capable of more charging power (100mA or something) We’ll just have to wait and see how these things do.
-Peter
I just ordered 5 NiMH batteries. Should be here tomorrow. I’ll tell you what I think of them. I’m coming to Australia the last week in June. If these batteries work out I could order some and mail them once I get there if someone wants to organize that so I can just mail all of them to one person.
-Peter
I had simmilar problems. My 3.0 was VERY slow and jerky.
First you have to take the 3.0 motor apart. The plastic end is held on my bent over tabs. This plastic end has small hair sized brushes molded in it. One set ofbrushes gruonds itself to themotor case and the other set is the small metal square on the back. These brushes are to blame for the weakness.My motor was missing the small metal link from the brushto themotor case ground. Take a jewlers screwdriver and pry the tabs straight up. Take off the gear and press the motor shaft against the floor holding the side of the body so the motor rotor will push the plastic cap off. Now, take the motor rotor out.Take your 1.0 motor apart also and assemble a new motor using the1.0 motor housing, 1.0 motor plastic cap/brushes and the 3.0 Motor rotor.
IMPORTANT
The brushes are very delecate. Don’tjust cram the plastic cap on after you put the rotor in.
First, put the motor rotor in the housing. Then, push the rotor shaft up so the back of the rotor is sticking up. Then take the plastic cap/brushes and wiggel them around over the rotor so the brushes go on either side of the contacts on the rotor and the tail shaft goes in the hole of the cap. Now put your thumb on the cap and your pointer finger on the other end of the rotor (same hand) and use your other hand to slide the housing on over the plastic. Notice that there’s a little notch in the housing and a tab on the cap that need to line up.
I did this modification twice now and the 3.0 motor with standard gears goes way faster then the 2.2 with fast gear and even takes off faster. Also, put a little bit of oil where thei shaft goes in the motor. You won’t believe how much faster it runs. My 2.2 was squeeling really loud so I oiled it and it ran faster than ever before.
Hope this helps?
Has anyone used the ni-mh batteries. I just ordered some and am expecting them soon. I just wondered how many times you have to charge them to get a good charge. I’m going to make a better charger if it’s more than a few times.
-Peter
Digi-q was quite a bit harder, they have a Hex shaped axle drive on each rear wheel since the steering is by different speeds on rear wheels. It is sure a LOT harder to steer then my Bit Char-g but it kicks butt on speed and acceleration! My bit with 3.0 and fast gears still has slower top speed than Digi-q.
YOU TEASE! How dare you! :smiley2:
This sounds so frigging cool man. I can’t wait to see the movie.
-Floyd
I never knew why my links didn’t work. How about this?
http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/digi.html
http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/digi2.html
Oh yeah, did I mention that I painted the flames and added the racing stripe?
-Peter
NB: Mcojoc’s original message to display the images now hanging off the ausmicro server.
Thanks again for the info and images, Mcojoc. GREAT STUFF!!!
Derek
David – the rest of your images have now been uploaded to your image gallery. Once again – great little mod! Well done :smiley4:
Cheers
Derek
Space Hulk Rocks…
“ieee Genestealer is blocking the road!
Funny you should mention GW stuff. I plan on using some of my buildings & hills (for 40k) for race scenery.
-Floyd
Have you tried swapping the batteries int he controllers? Even the same brands of battery can have different levels of quality.
Just a thought.
Aaron
dang!
now I’ll have to learn to drive on the left-hand lane! *grin*
very neat looking – I always wondered what/where that street scene came from on the TOMY website.
looks like the same slick-surfaced cardboard that puzzles are made out of.road
hmmmm, guess I’ll have to break out my old DARK FUTURE road pieces from my big box of GAMES WORKSHOP stuff in the closet……hmmmm How about bit char-g cars racing through the tight confines of a space hulk game?
-aquila out
BTW, both cars are with 1.0 motors.
both of the chargers use same brand of battery
At the 2000 (I think) Sydney Motor Show, Mitsu had a prototype Lancer Carbio (not an Evo…just a 2 door 1.8l). I guess they never went ahead with it..
It didn’t look all that crash-hot..the Astra convertible is much nicer IMO.
BTW nice mod!
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