betty.k
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neat little combo there, what that set you back? :8ball:
belts survive pebbles and grit way better than gears;) :8ball:
@klims 224968 wrote:
how exactly do you make something like that? did you just paint it?
oh god no! every one of dt’s rides is an individual work of art!;) :8ball:
he he, the “gullwing lipo mod”:D :8ball:
well for starters you got a whole lotta power in there, no matter what shoes you put on it’s gunna be able to break traction easily.
i’m guessing you have rubber tyres?
a quick fix if you do is to get some foams. aim for more grip on the rear. :8ball:i spent new years riding my bike around town, we had awesome weather and no smoke haze! (except after the fireworks that is!) :8ball:
you just too darn hype!! :topstuff:
always a treat when you visit :8ball:
found a review at miniz racer
http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=248669#post248669
locwan wrote:A buddy of mine that wants to get a cheap starter car had just orderd one directly from the firelap website, and it arrived today. I just want to give a quick review for those interested.There are apparently no changes to the design and electronics of this nanoracer from the old firelaps, other than the new name and new plastic colour, and a Tx that can be used w/ futaba modules. The car is also still without brake functions.
I had my hopes up, but I was a bit disappointed, as the build quality is still subpar. But you do get what you pay for, as the price is really cheap, and the radio seems very decent and packed w/ features. This is an okay car for my buddy as his first 1:27 scale r/c car.
I had a chance to try out the car and found it to be drivable around the track, but it was only after I had finished repairing the broken motor wires and replaced the c-clips that mysteriously snapped (both of them!) when I tested the front suspension by pushing down on the car.
Another problem is an antenna hole that is in the wrong spot on the Enzo body, as the hole was direcly in the center of the rear windscreen right above the rear top-shock; there was no way that the antenna would fit there without interfering the shock’s movement. So, a new hole had to be drilled in the more conventional upper right corner of the windscreen.
After the above fixes and modification, we ran the car after breaking in the motor, and the car seems fine at first, but later developed a tendency to not recenter properly coming out of corners.
I later had time to take the car apart to get a good look.. and found some more problems…
The plastic bushings that came w/ the car were no good. The center hole was too large and had a lot of slop when placed on the steering knuckls and rear axle. This caused a lot of wheel play and the wheels would not spin freely as the whole wheel wiggled on the shafts. Not a big problem if you immediately replace them w/ bearings, or even stock kyosho bushings.
When working on the car, care must be taken when trying to take the screws off, as they are made with very soft metal and strips very easily.
When the cover of the chassis came off, revealing the servo, I saw that servo gears were a bit slanted and had a lot of play. I also noticed that the “servo saver” was not fasten on properly, as the center shaft of the saver did not notch correctly into both sides of the plastic pieces that held it in place, therefore allowing it to pivot back and forth when trying to steer, making the steering feel like it is sometimes not responding. That was fixed easily by taking the “saver” apart and re-attaching the shaft properly, aligning it back into both sides of those plastic pieces. In case you’re wondering why the words “servo saver” are in quotes, that is because it is not a saver at all!!! It is only a plastic piece that resembles a servo saver. It looks like Firelap just copied it for the sake of copying… it had a spring.. looks like a saver, but in fact it was one solid piece of plastic, molded to look like a servo saver!!! Very tricky here.. one can certainly still break a few servo gears if not careful.
After the car had all its pieces put back and tested, a few more laps still revealed steering that would not recenter completely at times.. (although it is very minor) A few more looks inside the servo and tests later, we concluded that it is very likely due to a weak servo motor, and binding servo gears.
Although acceptable as a starter car for someone just learning to drive slowly around the track, I would really not recommend this for racers. However, on a more positive note, the Firelap package came w/ a lot of extra parts for replacing those broken pieces. The package also came w/ an extra RM motor pod and shims (which is curious as FL did not sell a RM model), all the different sizes suspension limiters, extra C-clips, wheel nuts etc. And the best thing I liked about the stock parts are the tires. It seems like it came w/ standard soft wide tires in the back, and slighly harder tires up front, much softer and grippier than standard Kyohso RTR and ASC tires. These tires had good grip and played a big part in making the car drivable on the track, coming out of the box.
Sorry of the long winded review, hope it helps anyone considering it.
the tx looks promising though :8ball:
first up, congrats! you gonna be real happy with that:beer:
the following is from experience, i don’t own one but i played with one.
the tx is a bit clunky but it’s very good quality.
the charger actually is a peak charger, but not a very good one. you’ll get way more runtime and performance from those cells using a proper charger.@merc, the included combo rx/esc is actually pretty damn good! i used my 3pk when i drove one, i was amazed that all i needed to do was adjust the steering trim and it was dialed in! resolution is real good, has a brake (that works in forwards and reverse!) comes with a double stack of fets which you could upgrade with fets used in z’s. (be warned if you do, they used lead free solder on the pcb so you gotta heat it up more. proceed with caution.)
and i don’t think you would need lipos once you see this little bugger in action, it will flip on it’s back with the slipper tightened up! and top speed is excellent, definately above 20kph.p.s., when you bust a tie rod make new ones outta zip ties:topstuff: :8ball:
so me using mosfet is the same as me using relays in the race tin
correct.
think of it this way, relays and regular transistors are old slow technology.
mosfets are the new improved version;) :8ball:g’day henal:beer:
mosfets don’t amplify the current, they just allow more through than regular transistors.
it’s kinda like if you ditched all your garden hoses and replaced them with big fat fire hoses. they don’t make more pressure, they just allow more through.
you would definately see an increase in torque if you upgrade the stock transistors to fets.
check out our tech notes for some good info on transistors. :8ball:
http://www.ausmicro.com/index.php?page=technotes2my card;) :8ball:
you only really have 3 options:
1. buy a big block motor mount as leon suggested
2. make your own or modify your existing one
3. get the mambalet us know how you go :8ball:
and be careful where you flick your cigarette butts!:D :8ball:
that looks legit to me and here’s the kicker, the readout on a tammy checker only goes up to 99kph so it’s probably going a lot faster!:smiley15:
it’s not an essential item but it’s good to have one;) :8ball:
i’ve got a spare i can send you, pm me ya details :8ball:
i’m building a surface to air missile so i can bring down that fat bastard on the 24’th and steal an e savage out of his sack!:D
but really, no special plans. apart from a lotta sweating! :8ball:
jamiekulhanek wrote:Regarding the flipped FETs, the leg that is attached to the jumper wire, i’m guessing that is NOT soldered to the pcb yeah? Think this might be my problemo.
correct, there’s ya problem! :8ball:i still have this old pic of the “flipped” method (neater in my opinion) and the normal method. “draht” means jumper wire;) :8ball:
i knew i could count on you guys!:topstuff:
well spotted leon, i’m waiting for them to reply to my email.
cheers panda, the countersunk purple chassis sounds good, just curious as to whether it has rolled edges? looks like it does. what about the stock one? rolled edges? i just worry that they may get in the way of the battery.
i’ll email that bloke on rcu if all else fails.
so after all that, no matter what i end up with (actually managed to repair the main chassis, lexan + superglue!;) ) i’d still like to make my own.
as that bloke on rcu said the weak point is where the steering shafts screw in (see attached pic). i think i can make one stronger by eliminating the big cutout between the 2 holes.
then again i could try to avoid hitting walls at full speed a little better!:D :8ball:
that’s another option i’m considering, buying some other hpi chassis and modifying it.
do you think the nitro chassis’ are the same size as the rs4 electrics? :8ball:the reason i chose cf is because i will be able to work with it using the tools i already have.
aluminium is a more affordable choice but i find it clogs up files and grinding wheels.
i thought of using blank pcb but for a full chassis i don’t think it will be strong enough.i chose a bad time to hunt for cf too, from what i can gather there appears to be a worlwide shortage of the stuff (i blame them scientists and their carbon nanotube junk!)
the parts i’m replacing are fibreglass reinforced plastic, if i can get hold of that i think it will be my choice.
i should have mentioned it sooner but if anyone can get me a chassis for a hpi rs4 rally/sport then please lemme know!!:D :8ball:
i can’t tell you much about them except that motorworks seems to be a fairly good brand. :8ball:
well if it’s definately a drive fet (or both) you can buy the upgrade fets at the shop and replace them. i’d recommend doing a double or triple stack.
whenever you do a drastic upgrade like lithium cells you need to monitor things like fet and motor temp at first in order to avoid these sorts of disasters. :8ball:Dangerous Dave wrote:yeah, that thing is incredibly stable!! Do you attribute that to the rear susp.??sure do! and the propo control.:8ball:
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