betty.k
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@rcs2die4 225275 wrote:
MMM I run on concrete too !! I’ve spent forever adjusting the balldiff to different settings !!
and yep I’ve tried a few different foams on the rear too !! still no luck !!!Ya mind if I get a few specs from you ??
Do you run side shocks ??
Do you have a top shock setup or do you run the kyosho oil shock with no spring ??
What notch T plate do you run ?? 1, 2 or 3
What brand and hardness foams do you run ??sorry for all the questions I just want this car to run right !!!
sorry i missed your post rcs, but what ph2t quoted pretty much covers it.
the most important factor in most racing is rear end traction, if you can’t get your back tyres to grip you got nothing.
that’s kinda what we mean by giving the car understeer, you want the rear end to have way more traction than the front.
for instance, if i put foams on the front and the rear i get massive oversteer and it usually rolls over.
the best performing t plates i’ve ever used are the atomic frpt plates. i used the wide one with the hardest spring. only problem is they break too often on rough surfaces. on a nice smooth track they may last better.
otherwise kyosho h plates are the best.my current setup:
mr02
iwaver mclaren f1 body
nelly turbo
pn racing s04
9t pinion
3racing ball diff
gandini foam tyres & rims (0 degree rims, hard med and soft foams all seemed to grip brilliantly for me. just the softer ones wear quicker than the harder ones.)
pn racing alloy mm motor mount
3racing carbon fibre wide t plate
kyosho oil shock (no spring)
kyosho skeleton chassis (no biggie, just clear polycarbonate)
.5 degree toe in tie rod
3racing kingpins
iwaver soft front springs
gpm 2/3 degree cambered alloy knuckles (tighter track = more camber)
atomic 0 deg narrow front dish rims
kyosho rubber front tyres, 30 deg radials, 30 deg, 40 deg. (depending on track conditions, colder track = softer tyres.)
atomic alloy front body clip
teflon sealed bearings
alloy wheel nuts
titanium screwset
39kph on the tamiya checker.alot of that is overkill but it’s very easy and predictable to drive which is important in track racing.
if you make your z any faster then you may as well take up drag racing, too fast is not as much fun as you think. (just ask jamie kulhanek!:D i watched his z go from 84kph to zero in the space of one barrier!)
don’t take that as a definative guide but it’s what works for me :8ball:
@rcs2die4 225307 wrote:
ok, have all that, bar the oil damper !!! so kyosho oil shock !! and dont run a spring on it ? so it just dampens yeah ?
correct.
i should say that this works for me and most others that try it.
although i’m not sure about the clearance issues with the vds body, do you think the shock will fit under the body?if not the disk damper may be what you need, most people speak favourably about them. :8ball:
i’m sure matt has the spares, i’ll get on his back about it. just clarify which nelly it is, maybe get a pic. :8ball:
nice big micro t section :8ball:
@rcs2die4 225301 wrote:
I spent a mint on parts for my 1st 02 and it never works right !!!
bb’s, cambered knuckles, a properly adjusted ball diff (alow some slip), foam tyres on the rear and an oil damper will bring you up to competition level. :8ball:
@RedTeam 225279 wrote:
Can we use it with Team Losi 1/36 Micro T, too ?
i think so, ph2t installed a nelly on his and it was a big boost in power :8ball:
size does matter! :topstuff: :8ball:
aha, but did you try foams on the rear?
i drive my z on concrete or tarmac and i’ve found foams to be the best, combined with a properly adjusted ball diff i can’t get it to donut at all!
i also run with it in the mid mount position. :8ball:
i had an 01 and gave up on it after breaking at least 10 sets of servo gears. i also managed to destroy a full set of alloy gears too!
i now have an 02 and i believe it’s the best of the mini z’s. low center of gravity, brake and most importantly a servo saver. i haven’t broken a servo gear since.
but to your original question if i had to choose between an 01 or 015 i’d choose the 015 :8ball:
well done! looks great….. although who cares how it looks. it’s how she runs that counts!
you getting more power to the motor? batteries drain faster? :8ball:
hey there gang! just moved house to mont albert and ph2t and i are already brainstorming on track ideas for my new back patch!
i think we’d be in for a templestowe meet, just hard to find the time lately.
and working weekends doesn’t help either:thumbs_down:i’d like to see a melbourne based crew come together, minig’s place is too much of a trek to just “pop over”. then we could come together as separate teams perhaps and have a victorian nationals or some crap like that.:beer: :8ball:
it just occured to me that mini z f1 owners always complain about having little room for a decent turbo. this could be the answer :topstuff: :8ball:
far out! well, if you’re gonna have a crap year you may as well make it a big one!!:D
i must say, i felt a disturbance in the force. i’m just glad it wasn’t you and kitty parting company. no matter how bad it is you’ll always have each other;)
and us!:smiley14: :8ball:
sounds like a winner! :8ball:
finally saw a picooz in the flesh, it’s like an rc mozzie!
re: the 3 ch choppers, check my thread for some tips: :8ball:
http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14121hell yeah, get us some pics at least!;) :8ball:
oh you!:smiley9:
superfly’s gloria was a clearcut winner, the epitome of “pimpin” :8ball:
how could you not! :8ball:
i’ve since found some links that answered my initial questions.
http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/flywire.htm
http://www.iroquois.free-online.co.uk/aerial.htmas i don’t have any inductors handy i’ll try making my own with the enamelled copper wire first. if that won’t work i’ll head down to jaycar and buy some real ones :8ball:
the return spring is like a bent piece of fine wire, see attached pic :8ball:
is the outer casing (the yoshi bit) as easy to remove on a nintendo bit char-g as it is for a regular one?
yep
what should i clean the contacts with
if there’s liquid in there wipe it away with a tissue or a cotton bud.
for the metal terminals use a pen eraser. also use it on the battery itself, rub the metal bits until they’re silver again.i presume the “interior battery terninals” are pretty easy to find – the things the battery touches when it is in, i take it?
correct :8ball:
what you want is a 1/3 AAA cell. bcg accessories are hard to come by these days so you better pm me your shipping address;) :8ball:
what’s a snow?:D
actually, there was snow in some of the alpine areas on christmas day. this is a rare event indeed.
honestly, after living in melbourne my whole life i could crap on about our weather for hours! we say that “if you don’t like our weather, just wait 5 minutes”!
down here we’re having our worst bushfire season on record so there are days when the smoke blows down to the city completely enveloping it. we’ve had days where visibility was reduced to a few hundred feet!
it’s now summer and we’re into the hot months now, it’s not uncommon for it to go over 104f! followed by a day of rain and 50f temps. sometimes all in the same day!:D :8ball:
cheers mike, glad to have you on board! :topstuff: :8ball:
sounds pretty cool, i guess it had to happen one of these days :8ball:
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