betty.k

[betty.k]

thanks brudda!:beer:

big thanks to ph2t for the camera work/file rendering stuff. and commentary!:D

the best micros are home built, if say kyosho brought out a full on 1:64 no one would want to pay the $150 us it would probably cost. they’re already having a hard time convincing people to buy the new lit chassis at $140 a pop!

just for a laugh, let’s cost this little bugger. all prices in usd.

$25 zzse
$20 zzmt (for the body)
$70 mr02 pcb
$15 enertec (for the rear end)
$5 die cast (for the wheels)
$12 lipo

that’s over $140 and that doesn’t count a charger or the $300aud i spent on the tx! imagine a labour cost on top of that!:thumbs_down:

but to me it’s worth every cent;) :8ball:

[betty.k]

got some vid up for all to see;) :8ball:
http://home.iprimus.com.au/trentheffer/humvee.wmv

[betty.k]

don’t think any locals have it but what i’ve read from others who have is that it’s the best mod you can do to increase power.
it requires more than just soldering though, there’s some pic programming involved too. :8ball:
http://members.cox.net/codesuidae/DCMod.html

[betty.k]

nice lookin’ sled you got there dave;) :8ball:

[betty.k]

it’s certainly been the talk of the town!
like you said, soooo cute!:D :8ball:

[betty.k]

i’d save the dual cell for last, you’d be amazed at the difference the fets make and may be happy with it as a single cell.

for the mt 3 cells is plenty fun. :8ball:

[betty.k]

if you’re going brushless then you’ll want to toughen the drivetrain, outdrives and dogbones for a start :8ball:

[betty.k]

well i guess it depends how fast you wanna go.
i’m happy with a top speed of between 30 – 40 kph and to achieve that i run 4 nimh cells, pn racing s03 or s04 motor (35 – 37 turn, neo mags), 9 – 10 t pinion, bearings all round (motor can too), nelly 1.0 (the spider is plenty good too).
then there’s things like suspension, tyres, camber, etc to tweak so it handles the excess speed. you can read all about my mr02 and how i set it up here:
http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10447

i spose if i wanted to go faster i would add a larger pinion, my motors have wads of torque to spare. at a guess i could go up to a 14t pinion and maybe clock 45 – 50 kph.

i’ve just never felt the need to go faster, a car that’s too fast to handle is less fun than a car that’s too slow. :8ball:

[betty.k]

because once you do all the mods it’s fast enough:approve: :8ball:

[betty.k]

we make a good team, he makes the cars go faster, i make em stay on line:topstuff: :8ball:

[betty.k]

in the meantime, use a ziptie;) :8ball

[betty.k]

i’m not sure i’d recommend this particular heli for an rc noob, it required some fiddling to get it to fly right.
but as a result i know it inside out now and greatly increased my heli knowledge doing so.

i would recommend this design for a beginner though, the counter – rotating blades make it very stable compared to a real heli. i’m finding it a good heli to learn with.

so if you want no hassles then buy a brand name cr heli like the twister bell or one of the venom range.

the charger is just a simple plug pack type deal, it’s pretty much matched to this cell. but it works well. :8ball:

[betty.k]

it’s a colco xrb lama, got it off ebay for $160.
it’s 1:28 scale too!

i’m just lucky a tree broke it’s fall, would have been much worse otherwise! :8ball:

[betty.k]

hot dog!:topstuff:

the truck’s pretty hot too!:D

glad it all worked out for you, you have no idea how aussie it is to see a dog in the back of a ute!:smiley2: :8ball:

[betty.k]

i’m no expert but i’d say it will be ok.

BUT, next few times you charge it do it outside where a fire won’t matter. monitor them closely for any sign of heat. if you feel any heat during charging then you may have a potential napalm bomb! :8ball:

[betty.k]

in the attached pic you’ll see a trimpot circled in red. this centers the steering.

adjust the steering trim to zero on your tx, twiddle the trimpot on the pcb til the steering looks right then use the tx trim to fine tune. :8ball:

[betty.k]

they’re not junk, just feature less.
they’re non propo so that makes them like palm runners or large bits.

but if you see a body you like just mod it to fit a mini z 😉 :8ball:

[betty.k]

slammin’!!!! :8ball:

[betty.k]

cool, just in time for the wet season!:smiley16: :8ball:

[betty.k]

are the fets getting really hot? what sorta motor you running? does it get hot?

might be a bad fet job, it’s easy to damage them during installation by overheating them. :8ball:

[betty.k]

yeah, bodies all interchange between zz, se, mt.

maybe the se’s don’t look as good but under the shell they’re pretty impressive. you can always change the looks! 🙂 :8ball:

[betty.k]

only the zzse is propo, about 8 steps each way.
the original zz’s were like longer versions of bits, same magnetic steering.
the zzmt’s are 4wd monster trucks, but still non propo.
the newer zz’s (from the cars movie) are different again, motorised steering and dual cells :8ball:

[betty.k]

crystals yes, transmitter no. but you should be able to pick up a miniz or iwaver tx fairly easily and cheaply;) :8ball:

[betty.k]

g’day brudda, welcome aboard!:beer:

dude, those skynet bods are pretty collectable, whatcha pay?

my guess is it’s an mr01 chassis.
if so you want to stick with 01 parts.

some parts are interchangable between 01’s, 015’s and 02’s like tyres, wheels, motors, servo gears, bearings, wheelnuts and some bodies but that’s about it. :8ball:

[betty.k]

looks like fun! :8ball:

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