betty.k
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but how can that be? mysticknight said epochs are dead??!!
nice one brudda, better get myself over there and check it out
i boughtmost ofmy stuff second hand and the really good ebay store that had all the xmod and zz stuff is long gone! some help i am!
i suggest asking a pimp to go shopping for you, that’s what i do if i want anything from radio shack.
if it all looks too much then hit me up for a killer deal on one of mine, i’m sick of xmods now!
hot dog!!
i’ll be there! the last one was a blast!let’s see who breaks the 100kph barrier first!
hmmmmm, methinks i better get me one of those f1 bods! the one peice design is a winner imo, my old gt40 bod was unbreakable!
(wasn’t unscratchble though…
)looks like australia got the monopoly on 8 legged critters with BITE!!!!
(yeah yeah, add the motor wires!)so, am i correct in assuming that the spider requires the removal of the stock fets and the rainbow leads got to the gate signals? like the, you know?
g’day bloke!
if you’re happy to tinker and put up with a few shortcomings in quality then iwavers are ok. but if you wanna be sure and avoid disapointment then stick with a kyosho mini z.
there’s changes at iwaver. they have created a side name called ‘firelap’. this is kinda like their clearance sale brand. so the car we’ve always known an the iwaver 02 is now called the firelap 2.0. there is a reviseddesign chassis coming out soon which will adopt the ’02’ tag.
same deal with the 04’s. old school 04’s are now firelap 4.0’s. the firelap stuff comes with the old school simple transmitter.
damn!
i thought for a second that this was a for sale thread!i know that ph2t and myself are interested in these too, let us know what you find out
in general lithium ion cells (shaped like regular cells) are 3.6v and lithium polymer (shaped like foil wrapped chewy) are 3.7v. i don’t think the .1v difference will matter.
have a look at the etec 80mah cells, they’re tiny (about 15 x 15mm) and if you wire 2 in parallel and position them end to end they might be the right size.
i’ve personally never powered a cam from the main power source because in my wireless cam setup i want to reduce the chances of radio interference and voltage drop affecting the camera reception. since your pen cam isn’t a radio cam you might be able to get away with it. you may need a filter and regulator for the cam, but this isn’t my department. i’m outta my depth at this point!
i don’t think you’re stuffed, there’s plenty of places to get lipo cells. i buy mine here:
http://www.aircraft-world.com/default.asp
look for the etec lipos, you might not find the exact cell but you may be able to make a close match out of the smaller ones. and if you do buy these you need a special solder paste to be able to solder wires to the aluminium terminals. you can buy it there too, a tube will last you forever.
shipping is fast, safe and reasonable too!
just don’t come crying to me when you blow $500 you didn’t have on cool brushless micro stuff!megatech used to carry a huge range of alloy and cf parts for mini z. they had some really cool bling stuff too like alloy fake exhausts and alloy/cf wings. quality products if you can get them
those balloon tyres you refer to zb are no good. they go on rims with a small diameter outside and a huge diameter inside. so the holes are different sizes on each side, have another close look at the pic and you’ll see what i mean.
trust me on this one, i found out the hard way!
i recall the same thing happening to me at rcmod once. i was logged in, made a post and my name came up as ‘guest, 0 posts’. i did a wtf post straight after and that came up as me.
here we go, found em in arch2b’s album at minizracer.
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/gallery/album311
in fact, check out his whole gallery, he must be loaded!
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/gallery/arch2b?page=1
beware of shipping from lego, even within australia it’s something stupid like $20 minimum!!
you guys want the ‘super swampers’. dunno who’s selling them though. there are also some fat lego tyres that fit ol or 01 rims too
and it all fits under my slot lowered torino body with room to spare! it wouldn’t be too hard to refit some lights in there.
a rough estimate of cost for this single micro is an embarassing $140aud!!
well i got this done no worries! i used an iwaver pcb and an80mah etec lipo cell to power it.
there isn’t as much pcb that can be cut off compared to a kyosho pcb, but it’s enough. i had to make some space inside to fit the lipo but nothing serious. i was able to keep the switch in it’s original position and mounted the crystal on the top of the pcb next to the black box thingy.
i got to run mine against a completely stock one yesterday, kicked it’s ass! i got a real fast and light setup, stock dg weighs 62g, mine weighs 49g!! and mine had twice the speed and torque of the stocker
merc, read the whole thread and you might get an idea!
and talldude’s dgm is off the market!
toyeast still have them listed, only the calsonic and subaru left
