betty.k

[betty.k]

check for dry solder joins, especially where the crystal and aerial goes. maybe the crystal socket is too lose inside, bend the legs of the crystal apart just a little so it makes definate contact:8ball:

[betty.k]

sounds like a perfect opportunity to upgrade to the superior quality of a pn racing motor!:p

i’m all about xmods as my 1:28 toys and where possible i use pn products, the s03 is a powerful motor. use many, buy lots!:8ball:

[betty.k]

he picked up some supplies at a remote desert outcrop!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

crikey! you sure did toast it!:dead:

take jamie up on his offer, it looks bad but i think it can be saved.:8ball:

[betty.k]

i should clarify that you need bb’s for the kyosho mini z 1:28 mad force. the real kyosho mad force is like a ride on mower on steroids without the blades:p:8ball:

[betty.k]

hehehe! and you wanna sell all your micros?? i think not!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

just look for bb’s to suit a kyosho mad force (just a guess, i’ve never had either):8ball:

[betty.k]

spewin’!!:dead:

try to get a good close up pic of it, let us see how stuffed it is and we’ll be able to give you a more definate answer:8ball:

[betty.k]

i’m using a s03 motor, 37 turn, bb can, neo mags. i don’t like to compromise torque for top speed and this motor has plenty of pickup all through the rpm band. it laughs in the face of larger “torque robbing” pinions!
the “platomic” motor i had just never ran smooth. there was no binding, the arm wasn’t jammed in and the brushes were broken in properly. it had (by my standards) very little torque and was generally a disappointment.:8ball:

[betty.k]

i’ve used the xmod servo with an i waver pcb and it’s fine, i don’t see a need to use a hitec.:8ball:

[betty.k]

here’s the atomic can, usd$13.90 (was $15.50 a month ago)

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_21_80&products_id=8017

i tried this motor combo out but never liked it, nothing can tear me away from pn racing motors:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

i don’t have a mini z anymore, i’m an xmod convert so i wouldn’t be able to test them out:8ball:

[betty.k]

great job! the flared guards look great as well as the “wiper” detail!:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

no, that’s piglet the manx:8ball:

[betty.k]

excellent, thanks for that! i discovered my aerial was about 7.5cm, i’ll trim it down (easier than adding a 15cm one).:8ball:

[betty.k]

i’m thinking your understeer is caused by the wide track up front when running wide tyres. for a true test i suggest running foams all around, narrow on the front. then run rubber all ’round, again with the narrow tyres up front. my guess is you will notice a lot of oversteer now compared to before when you ran the wide tyres up front.:8ball:

[betty.k]

more like one great big dumbass cat!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

painting and body mods can be a lot of work. you can do anything to the body, make a bodykit by glueing plastic or with putty or cut parts out. usually lots of sanding with fine sand paper.
it’s good to wash the body with soap and water and let it dry thoroughly prior to painting.
then you can paint it with a brush or spray paint, possibly even do some masking for the windows or a 2 tone body, decals, clear coats, etc.

as you can see, there’s a lot to it if you want or you can do something simple like use a marker to add some detail. the sky’s the limit!:8ball:

[betty.k]

painting and body mods can be a lot of work. you can do anything to the body, make a bodykit by glueing plastic or with putty or cut parts out. usually lots of sanding with fine sand paper.
it’s good to wash the body with soap and water and let it dry thoroughly prior to painting.
then you can paint it with a brush or spray paint, possibly even do some masking for the windows or a 2 tone body, decals, clear coats, etc.

as you can see, there’s a lot to it if you want or you can do something simple like use a marker to add some detail. the sky’s the limit!:8ball:

[betty.k]

from what i’ve read full on modified racers tend to charge at around 4 amps for endurance and stock racers charge at around 6 amps for the extra punch. i personally charge at 3 amps because that’s all i get before my charger goes on strike!:8ball:

[betty.k]

ok, now for a true comparison put the narrow foams on the rear and wide rubber up front. then repeat your test and tell us how they stack up:smiley2::8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 24 January 2005 21:46:28

[betty.k]

from mine and ph2t’s experience i recommend buying some thread lock for the screws that go into your alloy parts.
if the screw protrudes through the part once tightened, put a nut on the exposed thread and tighten that too:8ball:

[betty.k]

ikinari has documented a really good way of stacking fets in an 02:

http://www1.bbiq.jp/ikinari/mini-z/mr-02.html#fets

in fact he’s documented heaps of cool mods!!:p

http://www1.bbiq.jp/ikinari/xmods/index.html:8ball:

[betty.k]

Quote:

ever seen a z roll 10 times?

hehe, i think you know my answer to that!:dead:

ph2t brought his foam equipped 02 over yesterday and i’m impressed with them. we had to really work hard to get them to slide and they rarely did.
i don’t think they look too bad really and there’s always the option to repaint them. anyways, real racers aint gonna care too much about looks:8ball:

[betty.k]

sure can! but you will need to fiddle with the motor position to get the gear mesh set correctly when changing pinion sizes (same deal as mr01,02, ol, mf and iw01, 02, 03, 04):8ball:

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