betty.k
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may the gods be with you!
the stock xmod fets are pretty good, the heatsink saves them much better than mini z fets. ph2t is running a p dash armed motor in his, no smoke yet!:8ball:
nice! that one up top looks like the batmobile, only good!:p:8ball:
this show is comic genius! i love it when toula rings habibi from japan only to hear him shout “piiiiissssss offfffff!!!!” 😀
“what’s up with this pizza man, i just got a paper cut!”
“pauly, what are we doin’! we look like poofs” “it’s allright, it’s a swan. if it was a duck we would be poofs! let’s ram someone!”:8ball:
bring it on!:8ball:
under the hood pic:8ball:
nice one chino!:smiley2: i did a knuckle a while back and used some lolly pop stick. funny thing is this plastic is smoother than the knuckle stuff!
anyways, i got over that by shortening the bottom protrusions on the knuckles. means i have less travel but it’s been handling fine, and no more ripped up knuckles:)
i did the heat shrink trick on the drive cups, i’m surprised how much strength this adds. enough for me to break a universal joint anyway!:dead:
i pulled out my iwaver porsche body and mounted it with velcro on the sides and an extension tab up front. i’m amazed how solid this setup is, much easier than trying to get that clip positioned right. and i was able to mount it really low, about 1 – 2 mm below the middle of the chassis with no wheel contact. but the wheelbase looked too narrow, the body looked silly being that much wider than the wheels.
so i turned the wheels inside out. much phatter!:p some washers are needed to stop the wheels rubbing on the hubs but this is a total dream setup! corners like it’s on rails (bumpy ones!)this truly is the 1/28 for me:smiley16::8ball:
outstanding! the battery placement looks much better than strapping them to the roof, no toppling over for this bad boy! oh, wait. just saw the body:D:8ball:
hiya prez! good to see you’re still around!:smiley2: and save your cash for an xmod!:8ball:
i’ve run these through about 8 cycles now and they’re starting to impress me!:) still not quite as punchy as the jap ones but still worth having. powertech nimh suck balls!:dead::8ball:
i’m assuming that these sell for the same price as the old ones ($11 for 2). whatta rip!:8ball:
stick the nozzle in ya mouth and squeeze it til it comes out ya nose!:8ball:

yeah, and tell us what a twinkie weiner sandwich tastes like!:p:8ball:
i folded over a piece of sandpaper and did each groove separately. then the same thing but with the silver cloth.:8ball:
Quote:*NOTE* Power Tyres Foamies come pre-bonded to Chrome Rims. The Wide and Standard width rims are exactly the same offsets as Kyosho standard wheels.oops! i didn’t know that. kev, forget everything i posted before!:8ball:
well done!!:smiley2:
talldude, great stuff. makes me want one of my own!
leon, i didn’t recognise that car at all! total transformation.
zb, you know my policy regarding flamed bodies!:8ball:
i reckon this whole deal sucks. the “stop drop and race” tour was supposedly for amatuers. then rat shack decides to rope in a few ringers, meaning the average driver had absolutely no chance of even smelling the podium. kind of a big kick in the face to their loyal customers in my opinion:8ball:
kev, it’s the wheel that does the offsetting, the only thing you need to worry about is if they’re wide, semi wide or narrow:8ball:
probably because it kept breaking before any decent mods had a chance to take hold. the 01 is just not up to melbourne conditions!:8ball:
man, how good is the steering resistor mod!!:p i dead set halved my turning circle. this is the mod i’m talking about:
http://www1.bbiq.jp/ikinari/xmods/index.html
most of the times i’ve seen this done it’s been with a 4.7k resistor. but i decided to err on the side of too much and used 6.8k’s. it’s easy to reduce the steering on the tx to make up for it.:8ball:
looks like you’ll have to change your mind! this idea didn’t work out quite as well. as you can see from the pic below, my battery is way longer than the se’s. so my guess is those metal strips will have to be completely removed. even then, those se batteries look smaller than regular 1/4AAA’s. bloody corporate greed!:evil::8ball:
icebreaka, don’t be discouraged about soldering, you get better the more you do it. fiddle around with old dead pcb’s, practice removing parts and replacing them. even go down to the local dick smith or similar and buy a kit of some sort. they’re easy to do and excellent for developing soldering skills.
buy a soldering iron with a fine tip, some solder, desoldering braid and an old sponge to wipe the tip with and you’re set. trust me, it’s very liberating once you get the hang of it:8ball:
chino my man, you’re a legend!:D many wisdoms in that skull of yours!:8ball:
definately your smoothest work to date. you must find the larger scale easier to work with huh!:smiley2::8ball:
i’m still not sold on the monoshock idea. one advantage though is that you can remove those shock holders from the rear lower deck. it’s the part that hits the ground the most. but it’s still a great idea, as is all the others from chino!:smiley2:
the silver cloth is just one i bought from the supermarket. it comes impregnated with polish so you just open the pack and go for it.update.
i managed to get a pinion on the s03.
xmod + nelly + s03 = 🙂
i estimate a 30% increase in speed and visible increase in top end torque over the stage 2’s. this thing kicks ass!:8ball:Edited by – betty.k on 01 October 2004 21:56:10
there was a lotta labour involved in polishing that heatsink. started with some sandpaper to smooth the casting marks off, then some really fine sandpaper. then (and i’m not lying) i polished it with toothpaste and a rag. toothpaste is slightly abrasive and is a great cutting compound. finally i used a silver cloth to get the mirror finish. takes a long time but it’s worth it.:smiley2:
i got the parts i was waiting for, that’s it complete apart from the s03. i’m sure any xmod owner knows the part i broke, rear drive cup!:8ball: -
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