betty.k
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i should add that if i was driving in a perfectly clean environment i’d be using a titanium or teflon grease. the krytech is not as good a lube as those, but it stays clean.
it will flick off if you run it before it’s dry, and after that it gradually breaks away like a regular lube only quicker. so you need to apply it more often than other lubes, but you won’t need to clean anything. just re apply and go!jay-z, spray chain lube is usually oil, check first. not a bad thing but i’m refering to the parafin wax type lube. and graphite is fantastic, messy but great. when my xmod runs a little slow a little graphite on the gears is an instant pick me up. just don’t combine it with oil, it’s one or the other:8ball:
i’m just gonna stick with the 4 cells. initial tests with the stage 2 and nelly are a success so the hotter motor will be fine:8ball:
sounds like you got a woman!:shy::8ball:
sounds like you got a woman!:shy::8ball:
faster again? oh god, look out!!:shock::8ball:
Quote:study your manuali’m amazed how many people don’t do this, and not just for rc’s either.:8ball:
j, that’s a special motor that one!:shock: superfly and hue35 from bitpimps sourced a whole lot of these mystery white cap 3.8’s a while back and i scored a couple.:8ball:
to be honest i dunno! talldude should have this battery sometime next week, he’ll be able to give us a review.:8ball:
and that’s your final product. just trim off the tabs on either end.
i know it’s a simple thing but it’s hard to explain without pictures.:8ball:you’ll notice that there’s a strip of metal connecting the 2, you want to fold the batteries around at this point:8ball:
i know that ph2t had a 35t one, it was plenty powerfull:8ball:
Quote:z-beamerhar har har!!!!:D:8ball:
you must upgrade your fets, either internally or externally before running any motor that’s hotter than the x speed. eg: dropping a plasma dash in a stock car (electronically speaking) will produce a short run of about 5 seconds before setting off a smoke bomb! the stock fets can only take so much, i personally would stick with the x speed until then:8ball:
i too came to that conclusion, that’s why i’m leaving z’s behind. my xmod has taken ten times the beating and is only now out of action. parts are on the way but!:smiley2::8ball:

i hafta agree with mocky, there are some shortcomings. but it’s surely better than an mr01, it’s got a servo saver!:blush::8ball:i’ve discovered that a full alloy steering setup is just as bad. i’d go for the mro2 purely for the servo saver:8ball:
i thought you was just an old wive’s tale!:D
finally got my 2 “specially made for this comp” entries in! it was touch and go for a while there, the pc i use is deader than dead and died as i was trying to upload these entries. but where there’s a will…:8ball:
har har har!!! that’s a pisser!:D the shining was just as good as the original!:8ball:
as kitty said, don’t feel bad if you can’t come up with any cash. we all know what it’s like to be young and poor!:dead:
BUT
if you feel like going above and beyond then bring it on! you were only gonna buy another ivory backscratcher anyways!:D:8ball:
if there was every a mad force in need of a stiffening, it’s this one!:smiley2::8ball:
sounds like you got the right idea, i’d add bearings to that list if they’re not already installed. wide tyres and quality rubber is important too. but nothing beats knowing the cars handling pros and cons.:8ball:
no no no! the motor in question is NOT a bcg motor. it is a “BCG MOTORS” motor. geddit? the company name is “BCG MOTORS”:8ball:
the pink endcap bcg motors 3.8’s are only sold through tinyrc. the perfection 3.8’s are blue and the cream coloured one is most likely a 4.2:8ball:
if he’s using the enertec batteries, they’re dual 1/4 aaa 70mah nimhs. there is room in the chassis for 2 x 1/3 aaa. with the stock batteries i would charge it on the controller 3 – 5 times:8ball:
he probably means a bcg motors 3.8, pink endcap. nice little performers:8ball:
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