jamiekulhanek
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grow up ph2t, get a mini z :smiley2::D
Trash im unsure what to use as a capacitor, i hate piling on weight into my machine.
I was looking at 1 farad 5.5v super capacitors but they have been discontinued by dick smith.
yeh well i screwed imogen bailey!:clown::smiley2:
Same, ive gotta pull my finger out and gets some photos of my rides etc.
The main problem with the XL, is that when it lands, often the wing tips touch the ground, cause the landing gear is fucken flimsy, the wing is obstructed it gets pushed back into the prop and does a fuckload of damage.
I did a massive stall and lost all airspeed at low altitude, and it landed vertically and smashed the tailplane.
I think it needs more power just doesnt have the grunt i ask of it….might modify:clown:
how are u installing them dave??? :D:D:D
yeah why downgrade???
Thanks panda thats what i was trying to explain.
I had a firebird XL, i was flying it near my house and the wind was calm, then suddenly the wind picked up…..so i packed it up and took it home…..in pieces :angry:
very good OTP, i have now decided to stick with my z instead.
no the mini z system is designed to work on 27mhz
I think cars look good with a small size (front wheels) wheelset using the smaller kit racer gears. looks more scale.
no
the 27 meg system is tuned to 27 meg, and the 29 meg system is tuned to 29 meg.
Futaba attack 2er….is that a 27meg tx???
Start up current is when the power is switched on, and the motor draws a gigantic current for a few milliseconds, i.e. a plasma dash might draw 80+ Amps on startup!!!
This was taken from a xmodracer.com
Mocky it appears NML motors are not what they want you to believe.
NML,
You are trying to start it again, offending me!!
NML, Why are you still talkin crap after you said you werent anymore.. If you are referring to me as a Poser because I came out with my Big Block Version, then youre wrong.. Hey, Im not the one accusing people of fraud when youre the one Hipocrit who practices Fraud Armatured Motors. Im not the so called, “NML Handcrafted Quality” BS’er or FRAUD MOTOR SELLER using 5.00 Tamiya Armatures, ripping off people, BIG TIME!!
First of all, I dont care for people to buy the hydro motor. I even recommend it as well. i mentioned it in my threads that I have started two days ago..
Second of all, my Big Block V-12 Motor is not the exact motor that I bought from Hobby People. Dont make false accusations until you have Real proof!! Im talkin about the real proof of how you got caught big time from the past, whether its your phoney High Octane batteries where they are Sanyo 1.25v’s or whether its your Tamiya Armatured Motors!! Its the slower one’s that they sell at electronic stores, where I revised the armature, re-handwinding it for more RPMS than the stupid hydro motors in which i will soon test as well.. With these motors, it also depends on how you gear it!
Look, Im not the bitter one here who got caught redhanded using 5.00 Tamiya Machine Wound Armatures where you sold your motors for over $50.00 US dollars. YES, NML!! YOU KNOW YOU GOT CAUGHT REDHANDED AGAIN, USING 5.00 TAMIYA PRE- MACHINED WOUND ARMATURES!!
Now, that the fact has been proved about your so called ” NML Handcrafted Quality” , you are now trying to redeem yourself by kissing people’s @ss over here by posting your apologies, finally contributing ideas now, and future truly hand wound made armatures(to redeem the fact that you used 5.00 Tamiya Pre-Machined Wound Armatures) to divert the fact or change the topic in which you previously got caught redhanded for using Tamiya Armatures, and you know it’s true!!
Quote:nml are undefeatable.they may look crap outside but ive seen how they’re are on the inside. Neobrymium magnets,bbcans,special winding wire and pattern very neat and tidy and the connecting wires are thick as,if only they were silver,it would better.It rips the plams dash,it uses less electricity than plamsa too,very low heat and doesnt need as many fets as the plamsa.
A nml can eat any motor with time to cool itself off for round 2.wen u buy one u’ll feel the difference.Mocky i am an electronics enthusiest, and what you just said about the NML motors, just doesnt add up.
The Plasma Dash is super efficient, and runs quite cool, if the NML uses less power then there is no way it can develop more power.All crystals are compatible luke, but the question is, is your 2 channel system AM 27MHz???
If so, they can be interchanged.
Ive been driving with a mate after hed had 28 cones…….never doing it again, i was scared shitless.
What the …..?
I find that my plasma dash, with an alloy heatsink runs cooler than my stock motor…..so that means theres plenty of room for improvement in the power department.
Yeah try running the fucker on a 5 cell soldered pack!!! The lower resistance and higher voltage mean that it chews even more power but is way more efficient and powerful. But eats the batteries faster than….something fast.
Naughty PANDA!!!!!!
Mocky: Where can i get hold of those poly ceramic commutator and brushes????
I like to have the best of everything that i can get my hands on, but those silly Vishay MOSFETS are barely any different to our IRF7389 HEXFETS, so bugger getting them if they are 3 times the price, and a few weeks away………
mocky, the data sheets tell me that the new fets are only marginally better, but can handle 30% more current on start up.
Aaron, i already have a 6×2 stack, i want 4-6 fets to make a bigger stack and try to cramm it all inside the chassis.
Sorry about the small order, but dgs73 might be interested in 12 of the buggers.
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