jamiekulhanek

[jamiekulhanek]

ebay.com, rcmart.com

[jamiekulhanek]

TRUST ME A MINI Z DOES NOT DO 35KM/H ON A STANDARD MOTOR, try 15-18 km/h mate!!

I use tamiya plasma dash motors, with a 6×2 FET stack (internal Turbo) and 5 cells. It has extreme power and high top speed, my car hits 58km/h easy now!!

As for ur turbo, it might not handle the plasma dash, as a turbo is only equivalent to a 3×2 FET stack.

Goto The topic called ‘Mini Z Dash Motors’, that will have all the info you need.

[jamiekulhanek]

Some of the items in that poll you can’t compare.

But it seems the Mini Z is the favourite because it has so many aftermarket parts etc.

[jamiekulhanek]

All the same voltage 🙂

[jamiekulhanek]

mm maybe…………..

[jamiekulhanek]

The guy reckons a 1.0 motor spins at 1000RPM grrrrrr.

[jamiekulhanek]

LOL….bithed, check yer PM’s

[jamiekulhanek]

I used a piece of veroboard for my prototype, i reckon wiring them all together then sticking them to the chassis is the best bet. Got any spare mobile phone batteries??

[jamiekulhanek]

The TX6/RX6 chipset sucks ass anyway.

[jamiekulhanek]

As far as i *knew* the bit PCB can handle 5v (normal logic level)

[jamiekulhanek]

Basically you need to choose whether to use 4 or 5 cells, the current draw, stick them in the above equation and work out the resistance.

You can determine the motor power output by P=VI
(Power in watts). Halve this number and you will get the maximum power at the motor shaft, as motors are around 50% efficient at max power.

I used this formula to determine that my Plasma Dash motor develops around 30 watts of power.

Waht fets are you using BTW?? i recommend a 6×2 stack.

[jamiekulhanek]

Hey thats not a bad motto!!

[jamiekulhanek]

Pleasure to help bithed.

[jamiekulhanek]

Remember that you are talking to jamie, a stupid person obsessed with speed.

[jamiekulhanek]

I did this mod myself with rainbow leds.

If you want to do a really good job, use about 12 LEDS.

1 on each side at the front of the shell, 1 on each side of the chassis beside the servo, behind the front wheels, 2 on either side next to the batteries, 1 on each side behind the chassis, just between the chassis and motor mount, and one on either side behind the motor mount.

Superbright LEDS such as blue dont work that well, they tend to make a pattern of DOTS, not a nice glow.

I used standard LEDs and it was a much better effect.

I recommend using a separate battery for the LEDS, because under acceleration the LEDS dim.

[jamiekulhanek]

I forgot to mention that the Plasma Dash looks truly awesome!!!!!

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

…Jamie…what happens to my Z if i hook one of these aftermarket TAMIYA motors up WITHOUT a fet mod etc ? Do they just go slow ? Blow up ? Explain for me the difference if you can between the speed motor and the torque motor…im a layman 🙂 humour me 🙂 Have you tried any of the other TAMIYA motors ? EAGLE also has a speed motor and a torque motor…any good ?

If you try this bithed, film it!! Spectacular smoke/fire/small explosion!!!

The fets will last maybe a few seconds, before they blow, the resistance of the stock fets will make the car slow anyway.

TAMIYA motors: The Plasma Dash motor actually has MORE torque than the torque tuned motor, and also has alot more power, at the sacrifice of less battery life (much less). The torque tuned motor is low revving, low power, moderate torque motor.

Eagle motors, Havent tried them, but if i could see a pic i could tell you if they are a well designed motor, as for power and speed, who knows??

The tamiya Plasma Dash motor is the most fantastic motor i have seen, it’s full of good points, and with a set off BB’s installed its a fantastic little motor.

Reason Being:

-Huge commutator, 3-4 times the size of a kyosho motor, means low resistance, therefore less heat generation.

-No plastics are used on the armature/commutator, only high temperature epoxy (apart from spacers), the X speed/Stock kyosho has plastic commutator retainers and armature endcaps, when the motor is being over strained these melt and will basically wreck the motor.

-Highly vented can and resin endbell. Keeps the motor very cool, kyosho motors dont really have much venting at all.

– Well designed brush system. Has heatsinking effect, flows more current, keeps correct 0 degree timing for most of the brush life. Kyosho motors change the motor timing dramatically throughout the brush life.

Finally:

Dinball RC mart (http://www.rcmart.com) is based in Hong Kong. They are great!! Good prices and very reliable.

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Actually Jamie the application is for (twin engine)mini aeroplane use, so absolute max power is not the highest priority, I am just looking for something powerful AND reliable.
I’ll get a hold of a few of these and see how I go.
Thanks,
:)uA

As far as reliability goes they are far more robust and well engineered than other motors, the commutator is huge, and the motor is designed to cope with heat. If used within thier specified ratings they shold last very well. Mine only fail because they are putting out 6 times their rated power, and revving to more than 3 times their rated RPM. If i rewound a Kyosho motor to Plasma Dash specs and used the Tamiya magnets, and ran it on 5 cells the motor would probably fail in minutes. I highly recommend this motor.

Run these on 3-4 cells and they should be fine. The torque output is twice as much as kyosho’s X speed. Ball Bearings reduce heat, increase efficiency and motor life. Neodymiums are only good if you want mega performance, but will really stuff the motor.

I have a few trick that boost the power and efficiency of these motors, so PM me if you are interested.

[jamiekulhanek]

I had a Firebird XL, got caught in a gust of wind.

I’ll just say that it fitted in my school bag after the crash……

[jamiekulhanek]

And her nagging to buy t shirts!!

[jamiekulhanek]

trash lol, i am only 16 now but can remember being scruffed by the teacher and chucked out the classroom door.

[jamiekulhanek]

URL…hmmm i spose you could do a google search.

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

heya ppl,

I’m soon going attempt at handwinding my own motor, so since its my first time I’ve got some questions to ask. 🙂

Could anybody tell me how many turns can the fets(6×2 and 5×2, IRF7389) take on a regular FA130, stock armature, around 30 gauge wire? Using 4x800mah NiMH batts.

Would there be any formulas to calculate the amount of power drawn to the motor with the certain amount of turns and gauge size?

Just to confirm, from my knowledge, the magnets dont make a difference to the amount of power drawn as that is determined by the number of turns on the arm. Am I right?

thanks

First i ask, what motor are you using as the donor, unless it is something like the plasma dash’s guts it just won’t cope (believe me i have tried). Anything below about 35 turns and the motor will shit itself to death.

The type and quality of the magnets makes a big difference to power draw, i.e. if you add Neodymium magnets current draw will increase many times over.

As for the rest i am really not sure, i *think* a 6×2 stack will handle down to 20 turns or so, but am not quite sure.

A really simple way of getting more power is to run 5 cells.

I guess for the formula you could use I=Current V=Volts R=Resistance

R=V/I. You might want to check with micro amps, cause i cant really remember.

[jamiekulhanek]

lol reading as we speak….

[jamiekulhanek]

Micro, First i ask what is the application???

To get all the parts from one site go to http://www.rcmart.com and hit micro R/C.

You will find ball bearing sets, the motors, and neodymium magnets.

The whole lot will set you back around $45 bucks.

I recommend buying a few sets of standard motor brushes. The brushes dont fit the motor, but you can take out the carbon blocks and use them to replace the stock ones when they are worn down, make sure they are held in very firmly, bad things happen if they are loose.

Your motor will be a screamer, but will probably be very high maintainence, and will probably not last long at all.

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