jamiekulhanek
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All i know is he had 15 chassis’ and 57 shells :p
Hmmm maybe, who knows, i want the earthmovers…and all the other stuff, they just look cool, and the sub, that could be fun.
OTP, my mini Z weighs 195 grams RTR.
i really want a ferarri set and a lambo set.
Bithed can you get Enzo pullbacks??
Pitty we never saw pics of Shypo’s entire collection….
I put up a post about 1 year ago showing the tanks, subs and earthmovers, really wanted them, but never heard of them again.
C’mon TOMY bring out something new and cool, im getting bored of BCG’s!!!
i miss playing initial D at the arcade, there is no initial D where i live and it’s painful when ppl dont know what it is….
I want an S15 with an RB30 stroker and 6 speed HKS air shifter transmission, and 1000HP……it would be great fun for all of 1/2 hour 🙂
Yeah my bro’s mate has a white R33 GTS-T with GTR wing (yuk! rice!) it has a few engine mods but gets blown away by the silvia, even Austin’s (another of my bro’s mates) 180SX with an SR20DET full of HKS bits, running 19PSI cant beat the silvia. Its damn fast!! But i WILL own a faster car one day (i hope).
What colour is cousin’s R33 GTS-T?? And…do you have your own jappo rocket??
Micro, Tamiya mini4wd aint big in aussie, so parts are few and far between, and expensive.
<20AUD is a good price, though i throw alot of cash into the motors hopping them up.
Most 130 Motors are designed for low power and torque applications, and generally last a long time.
The problems with these motors (like the stock/X speed Z motors) is that if you add neodymium magnets, failures rates skyrocket. The design of the motor is just not good enough, very close cousins to the $2 dickie smith motors.
When you pump more power out, the motor heats up much more, the dodgy brush system superheats the commutator, and burns the commutator, which melts the retainer ring and makes the commutator segments fly outwards and pulverise the brushes and maybe other motor parts. The armature itself is usually slightly smaller, and has plastic end caps, which melt and expose the sharp edges of the armature to the copper winds….nasty stuff happens here. The tolerances in the motor are poor too, the distance betwen the armature and the magnets is sometimes close to 1mm!, which is really a big gap. They have bronze bushings and sometimes no bushing in the plastic endbell.
I have had some experience with the tamiya plasma dash aind, it wonderful!
-The design allows great cooling, the brushes are much better than normal motor brushes, the tolerances are closer (but not good enough for Jamie’s standards), the magnets are high quality,the endbell is a composite material that withstands very high temperature, the commutator is fantastic, many times bigger than a standard commutator, so more heat dissipation, more current flow etc., the armature itself is slightly longer than normal, and it has high temperature epoxy resin endcaps.
Add a set of BB’s, Neodymium magnet, and some cpacitors and you have a screamer, do a few little tricks and the thing will be even better.
Maintainence is high on these motors though, after 5 runs in my mini Z the motor becomes sluggish, and needs to be reconditioned.
*Takes a breather*
Tamiya?? Oh trust me they pump out some top shelf shit my man…..Surikarn is the world champ 1/10 touring car driver, he chooses tamiya.
Have you seen the Tamiya TB Evolution III Surikarn Limited edition, id seriously consider rooting that thing if i could find a hole in it (joke).
I am getting an eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeepoch!! Yay gonna rip it to bits and make it scream!!
Yes Lancer-Evo/VR-4 alwaysmanagedtoannoythecrapouttaeverybodyanddiddoalotofdamagetoausmicroatchristmas2002butnowhesgone(yay!)thoughhedidknowalotbutithinkhewasfullofshit.
OTP, scale weight is 28x28x28……which equates to around 4 1/2 tonnes!!!
Leonli, i was told by most who have tested mini 4wd’s that the Plasma dash was the fastest motor available with the highest revs and most power, the open endbell and HUGE commutator show this….
I used to play with these cars when i was little, but never knew about hop up parts.
Bithed….motor experience?? What do you want to know??
LOL i typed wa nkel and this site censored it!!
Trash: Have you seen the little wankel rotary that has been made?? Has a 1mm diameter rotor!!
Man thats cool, I wonder what they sound like?? 40,000 RPM…. just use normal bit gears.
My big concern is…can they be throttled???
Im not bagging it just wondering 🙂
What do they run on???
If you want to add mini Z parts, why not buy the mini Z?
Fair enough statement!
I understand about the whole friends thing, none of my friends ae into R/C, infact they dont even know that im into it!!
Im not saying that they are crap, but i do think 512 steps is necessary, trust me it is. They wouldnt make 512 step ESCs for no reason.
When we say “Hobby class” we mean things like: Kyosho, Tamiya, HPI, Team Losi, Traxxas etc. Radio shack aint in that group.
Any what makes you think you have more fun with ur cars than me?? :):smiley2:
In fact it used to live in your city wills….
I hate autos, my brother just bought a new toy, a jet black 1:1 silvia with an RB25DET and all the mods from Tomei, HKS, Greddy (Trust), Microtec, Nismo, volk racing.
It was once a CA18 Auto, so hes worried about the CV joints failing (cause it once once a gutless auto).
Got some serious power it has….driving me to school today he pressed the boost control button on the steering wheel, and did a huge smokey drift around a corner…scared the crap outta me, but damn it was fun.
Yes you do need 512 steps!!! The more the better, it allows for a smoothe, linear throttle response, 16 steps just aint enough.
Mini Z is built by one of the leaders in the R/C world, KYOSHO, R/S is kids crap.
That thing is crazy, i want a straight 6, a v8 and a v12 of these things!!!
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