kevsta

[kevsta]

On your kt5 radio, there is a plastic panel that can slide off revealing two knobs to adjust steering sensitivity and reverse/forward. Adjust the reverse/forward knob so that you don’t get the buzzing noise.

[kevsta]

Someone from work bought two clones and I tried flying it but couldn’t. The thing would not steer left or right but went randomly up and down. Do the originals let you steer properly ?

[kevsta]

@mini-g 225164 wrote:

hey kev, how you been? you still got your z?

Hi big dave, I’ve still got them – will eventually meet up with all you guys to have a race.

[kevsta]

Wow… Good to hear that you’re getting on top of things.

[kevsta]

Are these the same thing or are they a clone ?

http://www.dailydeals.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=11049

[kevsta]

I place my thumb over the end cap to hold it securely to the can and use a small flat head screw driver to press the tabs in the secure it in place.

The end cap doesn’t move at all during use as the two tabs hold it securely down.

[kevsta]

Sorry, I misunderstood what your explanation. I haven’t noticed flexing of the can in any of my motors when pushing the tabs in.

[kevsta]

I think the problem you are experiencing is binding of the armature. To free up the bind you will need to remove the spacer from the top of the commutator or from the bottom of the armature.

[kevsta]

That’s great news. Looking forward to it.

[kevsta]

02 chassis kits are available but pre-built.

[kevsta]

@betty.k 224983 wrote:

neat little combo there, what that set you back? :8ball:

The kit itself cost about $134 AUD. Kyosho released these in Japan around December last year. I think the only difference with the standard chassis kit is the bearings and the stronger blue/grey chassis.

I was tossing around to either getting this or the anderson mb4 1/18 truck which has had good reviews. There are also now clones of the ae rc18t on ebay going for cheap !

[kevsta]

I couldn’t help myself and got another awd to add to the garage.

Here are a few photos of what’s in the kit.:D

[kevsta]

You could also look at your diff settings and adjust them so there is a tiny bit of slippage.

Next thing to look at would be your suspension setup and ensure there is no tweak if it donuts in one direction all the time.

[kevsta]

That’s some interesting info on the servo saver. 😀

[kevsta]

rcs2die4 wrote:

Come on… Somebody must have done something to there AWD !!!

I’ll have some pix up soon with whats been going on in my neck of the woods !!

I bought lots of awd parts that I need to fit. Parts such as the grey blue chassis, a metal drive shaft, kyosho cv joints an atomic stock motor, the kyosho multi off set wheel pack and more that I can’t think of right now. I’ll get around to fitting them all one day. 😀

[kevsta]

I can’t talk about it on here. 😀

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=7805&view=findpost&p=70785

[kevsta]

I still have all of my mini-z’s. Haven’t run them for quite some time now…

I’ve taken a break from 1:10 racing since April this year and don’t know when I’ll get back into it.

And I’ve been modifying my 1:1 car lately 😀

[kevsta]

TallduDe wrote:

hey kev is your firelap 2.0 the ones with the carbon fibre chasis the ones at towerhobbies like this 1

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMLN7**&P=7

or is it a clone of the mr-02??

kinda interested in the carbon one.

sorry for thread highjacking.

but i had a good reason for doing so and its also useful info………kinda

My firelap 2.0 is the mr02 clone that I bought from the shop. I think Aaron has those carbon fibre ones coming into the shop as well…

[kevsta]

Thanks for that link. I’ve just placed an order with them. I’m buying a heap of kyosho parts for the firelap 2.0 :topstuff:

[kevsta]

Great video Ph2t !

Your driving skills are superb.

[kevsta]

The alloy motor clips will fit on the stock plastic motor mount – up to a 8 or 9 tooth pinion gear (I can’t remember which one).

Try adjusting the motor spacers and use some folded up paper on the back of the motor to push the motor heat clip/sink out.

It’s quite hard to find MR01/MR02 gear these days on ebay…

[kevsta]

Thanks heaps Betty.K !

This was driving me nuts being my first iwaver experience…

[kevsta]

The squeling sound can’t be good. Have you tried turning the armature by hand to see if it’s binding anywhere in the motor can ?

Also push the tip of the armature to see if there is any play within the motor can. Some play is good – if it doesn’t move then you might need to open it up and remove a shim.

[kevsta]

Thanks betty. It says it discharges as well before the charging, only I don’t know if it does this for nimh. I might check it out tommorow at jaycar…

[kevsta]

Here’s a link to the theory of rc car handling for some light reading…

http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/

Like Merc said, that nut on the damper is really for setting the ride height. You should probably aim to have the chassis sit at around 5mm to 5.5mm off the ground if running on a smooth tennis/netball court surface.

Preloading the spring to make them harder means you won’t have any droop/chassis uplift.

[Author]

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