PandaBear
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Quote:what r sum shock sets that u guys would recommend?
Question right back at you… what’s Wrong with what’s on the car
right now? Is it handling so badly that you need new shocks?If you do… probably Kyosho and Duratrax both make suitable
shocks as do many other option part companies. Just depends on
what your local shop sells, there’s nothing that says any one
brand/model works so much better than any other.If your current shocks are oil-filled units, try investing in
different springs and different grades of silicone oil. Learn
to tune your shocks to change the car’s handling instead. You
still gotta learn even if you’ve got the snazziest shocks onboard.Quote:also what type of motor is good to get for lots of speed but u dont have to replace brushes all the time
i need a motor that is 12 turn or higher because my esc doesnt go down more than a 12 turn motorIf you want the power, ya gotta pay for the power.
Brush wear is part of the price ya pay for power.But unless you’re really cooking your motor by overgearing it,
brushes don’t wear out that quickly. Have you even changed
brushes before?? Some ppl play for years on a set of brushes.
Maybe your motor just needs cleaning?!?You already answered your own Q… if 12 is as low as your
ESC can go, then 12 is the max you can run unless you
get a new ESC with lower/’no’ motor limit.A hotter motor will draw more current, so your batteries
will take a beating to. New batteries, new charger etc etc.
No such thing as a free lunch.Quote:they’re the packs I was thinking about (the Master Instruments) I noted the same things although can’t be bothered witht the wiring changes 😉Sometimes it isn’t a matter of choice… :p
In simple backyard-bashing use guess the issue might not arise,
but the moment they’re on the bench (= no cooling airflow) and
connected to the 30A discharger/capacity-checker… 🙂Rewire with 12g silicone wire & new plug, no problems thereafter.
Contrary to popular belief, the “Tamiya” type plug usually has
no problems surviving the current… its just the wires. 😯Quote:There are some Sanyo celled Australian assembled 1700NiCd packs that have great punch for about AU$40….Master Instruments in NSW is the largest local assembler of cells
in Australia, they have been doing it for a fair while now.They use the big-name cells (Sanyo, Panasonic etc) and the
cell interconnects (“spotwelded cap”) are acceptable for
commercial packing.However I do have issue with the wiring from the pack to the plug,
where they use about 10″ worth of wire, half of which is hidden
inside the packing. It is unnecessary and the wire does heat up
enough to burn the shrinkwrap under heavy loads.Once rewired correctly, the stickpacks are as good as any other
using the same cells. They don’t do matched packs though.Quote:Woudl love to go up the NiMH but just can’t wing the buxs right now 🙁There’s still no benefit from NiMH unless you’re short on runtime
and you dump before the end of a race. For backyard bashing NiMH
doesn’t go any better than nicads. And they need a lot of
pampering… :dead:I’d just stick with Sanyo RC2400s.
Most of the “maintenance” is plain old common sense.
Nitro cars can get very messy… Keep the car clean so you can see when screws are coming loose, parts breaking etc. (Also a clean car is so much nicer to wrench on!)
You must get the instruction book with any car you buy so you can work out what is going on, and what’s going wrong. This is important!
The instructions would usually have a list of all the sparepart packs sold… so when you need spares, you just ask for the exact pack. No timewastin’ and your LHS will love you. 🙂
Yup, you’ve covered everything that’s worthwhile, that’s about all you need onboard. There’s really nothing else that will make your car faster nor help it handle significantly better.
If you’re planning on going racing, now might be time to start saving up for a few packs of decent batteries and a very good charger.
The charger will last you forever if you look after it, so its best to buy something good. Lots of different brands and models out there.
Haven’t ya just bought a T-Maxx?? blackeye:
If you’re hoping for “full set RTR”, can probably find something like a T-Maxx 2nd hand in good condition for about A$700. Otherwise new they’re closer to $900-1200.
There’s also the Kyosho MegaForce I think, and the Tamiya TerraCrusher in the same pricerange.
Most of the current monster trucks are only available as an RTR, cannot buy as a kit to build yourself and add your own radio/engine etc.
Quote:the remote in old mini z’s is a jr python the new remote in my mr-02 is like a ko propo ex-1 just alot cheeperwrongo… close but no cigar.
MR02’s TX is a rehash of the KO EX-9 from the late 1980s.
Yes, the original Readyset & mZ one is also seen as a JR Python or an Acoms Techniplus.
The new Readysets now have some HIDEOUS plasticky new TX (not the MR02 one)… 😯
Stadium trucks are mainly for serious offroad racing on tracks… otherwise they’re not exactly anything great worth looking at, they’re not a real scale vehicle and no one is into 1:1 stadium truck racing outside of the US (even THOSE don’t have the ridiculous fat balloon tyres!!)… :dead:
For backyard bashing, something like the T-Maxx (and lots of other similar trucks) is probably ideal. They are pretty strong, they have big wheels to roll over most things, they are 4WD (stadium trucks are 2WD), most have hancy gearboxes with 2spd & reverse.
Back to the A/B/C/D… anyone tried racing with them yet?? 🙂
Why u asking US what YOU like? 👿
Shouldn’t you have your own opinions first?
What are you planning on doing with it??
yup blackeye:
DHL once whacked me full GST + import levies, plus extra $60 for the pleasure of their customs-agent services.
All payable by creditcard… :smiley2:
I took some professional interest into ROBOCUP when it was in Melbourne… 🙂
I took some professional interest into ROBOCUP when it was in Melbourne… 🙂
Quote:Panda, don’t even bother with the 27Mhz ones. Get the 40Mhz. They have way better range and they don’t suffer from the “last command remembers” issue the 27Mhz suffer from.Too late! 🙂 Its here already.
Like I really “need” any more BCGs… :p but I just wanted the Countach for personal reasons*, so it had to be the 27-A no other choice.
* me got soft spot for any RC Ferrari F40.
Sorta spilled over to Lambo Countachs too. 🙂Quote:…look up the atlas book where is that tiny country called malaysia… or watch ‘Zoolander’… :D:D:D
imho T’is lucky that the Yanks don’t know where some countries are.
They just discovered where AFGHANISTAN is, and look at it now… :dead:Quote:…look up the atlas book where is that tiny country called malaysia… or watch Zoolander’… :D:D:D
imho T’is lucky that the Yanks don’t know where some countries are.
They just discovered where AFGHANISTAN is, and look at it now… :dead:Uhoh, we now got Stage II water restrictions.
Can’t wash cars so easily now…
haha, haven’t washed mine for YEARS anyway – good excuse. :blush:
(piqued!?)
FORTY bucks a car, eh??
Gee, be lucky to charge $25 down here.
Hmmm… thinking let’s move to Brissy… :):)
Unless ya own da HOUSE… might be an idea to ask yer mum/dad *first*… :smiley2:
I can definitely tell youse, digging up the backyard does *bad* things to the house’s resale value. Somehow backyard tracks aren’t appreciated by the Real Estate market??! blackeye:
Last time I tried it, it was on a rental ppty. :blush:
re: NOISE
You inconsiderate twits think the world owes you, do you? Got news for you… it don’t. :angry:
Have some thought for the others who might not like the noise of a nitro toy screaming away… or else you could well get them BANNED in your county/council and that’ll Serve you Right.
And we’ll be sure to direct all the irate RC hobbyists to Your House to show you how inconsiderate you have been. Be sure your Neighbours would be more than willing to point out the directions.
Get Real.
Running an RC is a Priviledge, not a Right.
As for running with no muffler…
Stop spouting crap (you know who you are).
Losing a tuned pipe on your 2-stroke instantly decimates all power coming out of your engine, makes it run too hot, run too lean from loss of back-pressure.
Yeah right, sure you really want that.
I know the guys usually use something really light, like silicone oil spray (check your hardware store). Some use powdered graphite.
Thicker oils & grease will cause drag. Your BCG motor will not have enough torque to overcome the extra drag.
New T-Maxx with the 2.5 engine already goes like stink. You don’t need to make it any faster.
Save your $$$ and spend it on fuel and consumables. It will drink through that nitro faster than you think, and nitro don’t come cheap.
If you’re looking into racing, check your local tracks and see what the locals are running. It helps to have a similar car that’s popular locally, so at least you can scum off some setup tips off the locals and use that as your starting point for your car.
Also look into parts backup. If the car you buy isn’t supported locally, you’ll have to import all your parts yourself. The shipping on all these bits will soon add up, and the downtime will be 1-2 wks at very best.
Guys who run ‘odd’ cars usually buy 2 or more kits, for parts backup. If you can’t afford to do that, you should buy something that is well-supported by your LHS.
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