PandaBear
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Quote:that was meant to be w a n k e l.
Rotary engines still have to move their rotors, they just move in an eccentric orbit. The crankcase is like a figure-8 and the triangle rotor shifts back-n-forth as the crank rotates.
Nah, the only true rotary engine is a gas turbine. Pure simple spinning action: 50,000 rpm is their *idling* speeds!! :shy: Played with one at uni before… quite an impressive gadget.
Nah, stay clear from the KIT handset, its useless.
You can get simple circuits in a kit from DSE etc, just simple 555-based timers that will on/off a relay at the end of your set period.
Simpler circuits would be like the one in the BCG TX, its a “bucket with hole in it” idea. Basic and not very accurate, but close enough.
As a Tamiya historian (sort of :)), the Baja Champ is a significant piece of work as I’m sure you’ll have noted: the sticker sheet even contains the logo for (1) our dear friends Toy Traders 😯 the local Tamiya importers and (2) RIKO, same for UK but since died.
No other sticker sheet will have these two logos together again.
Just received delivery of a #58291 myself… 🙂 but its one earmarked for the shelf.
Time for a “WHERE did Shypo go?” thread!! 🙂
I say… Queensland!
Puffer:- Welcome!
btw JNH is the local distributor for the “Compact Bit Char-G” range… consisting of exactly Four cars in either 27Mhz or 40Mhz.
If you need a spare 45Mhz chassis you’re out of luck. However only the PCB differs, the plastics are 100% interchangeable.
So if its not the PCB you’ve skru’d up, perhaps JNH can help. Just don’t tell them its not a CCG. :smiley2:
If someone’s built it exactly as per instructions, it should look something like this! 🙂 :-
Or if not, it’ll be something like this :D:-
What bits make up a Baja Champ!Quote:nicds have a memory effect if u dont fully flatten them, so they need to be fully discharged.. NiMH have a reduced memory effect but i’d still recommmend flatening them before chargeing to prolong the life of the cell.Agree!
Actually I’d even say discharge them after using and store them flat. If you’re talking individual cells you can put a resistor across each one and flatten them to 0V and store them with the resistor still connected.
I also find NiMH has a higher level of self-discharge. If you charge and leave them unused, they’ll slowly lose charge by themselves but this rate is faster than a NiCd.
Airtronics = Sanwa… that 1 must be from US?
There isn’t much out there that is significantly better than the Perfex imho; some might give better range say over 200m+ but on a tiny mZ that’s not too important. 🙂
Some fellas actually recycle the mZ TX for use in bigger RC. Just buy a new basic stick radio (~A$90) and use its RX and 2 servos, cheaper than buying them individually.
I just have a dislike for TXes that have loose detachable antennas! For me, loose = lost.
Quote:yeah i know about the electrolysis of water (i’m in year 12 this year, studying chemistry) but i don’t think batteries have any water in themThe electrolyte is in the form of a paste, so there’s some water. Its like gelcells… the acid is a gel, but its still waterbased.
Quote:also electrolysis is a type of reaction:pDepends on your definition… I say its not really a “reaction” as you need to pump power into it to make it happen.
Quote:oh also i think hydrogen comes from the negative electrode, H+ ions that receive an electronMakes sense, I’ll believe ya! 🙂
“Buy a Bigger RC”? 🙂
Ok ok, which one of us here visited Shypo in the night??! 😯
“Steamboat Willy” is the first Mickey cartoon I think.
Schematic and circuit diagrams are as useful as taking a photocopy of the PCB. You still won’t know what’s under those black blobs – custom ICs – and what they do.
Gotta wait till it *dries*, Jamie!! :blush:
Quote:Nah thats true. 1.0=10,000RPM 2.2=22,000RPM 2.6=26,000RPM 3.0=30,000RPM.You are probably thinking that it is impossible for a motor to do those speeds? Maybe a car engine, but small engines rev really high.
Motors can rev high as there’s no reciprocating parts, its just a balanced spinning axle vs a piston engine whose bits move up/down. Double the rotational speed and it becomes 4X the forces on the crank/conrod/gudgeon-pin/piston.
That’s free running RPMs anyway… when the motor is unloaded.
Quote:Nah thats true. 1.0=10,000RPM 2.2=22,000RPM 2.6=26,000RPM 3.0=30,000RPM.You are probably thinking that it is impossible for a motor to do those speeds? Maybe a car engine, but small engines rev really high.
Motors can rev high as there’s no reciprocating parts, its just a balanced spinning axle vs a piston engine whose bits move up/down. Double the rotational speed and it becomes 4X the forces on the crank/conrod/gudgeon-pin/piston.
That’s free running RPMs anyway… when the motor is unloaded.
But no fear!
Just buy a $24 KIT Racer car from KMart/TRU etc and that’ll score you a new Tomy cell and a new 2.2 or 2.6 motor.
Instant tuneup kit! 🙂
But no fear!
Just buy a $24 KIT Racer car from KMart/TRU etc and that’ll score you a new Tomy cell and a new 2.2 or 2.6 motor.
Instant tuneup kit! 🙂
How old are the cars, David?
Nicads do have a finite life, probably around the 500-cycles mark (maybe even less given our quickcharge abuse). If they’re well-used cars then perhaps you’ve charged it 500+ times already and the cell is getting tired.
How old are the cars, David?
Nicads do have a finite life, probably around the 500-cycles mark (maybe even less given our quickcharge abuse). If they’re well-used cars then perhaps you’ve charged it 500+ times already and the cell is getting tired.
You don’t need buckets of the stuff right? Just a few cups?? What about that stuff the hobby shops sell to make dioramas, beautifying train track layouts etc.
Sounds like David wants a bricks-n-mortar Shop, Dave. :shy:
Otherwise with online shopping, doesn’t matter if its around the world or around the corner, the buyer’s effort is pretty much the same.
Quote:I think members can still join there until I hack some code …With all those “MOVING” posts up there… methinks if anyone bothers joining up there we should just *leave* them there. We don’t need such duh-brains over here!! 👿
If you guys hang around with the Mini4WD crowd, you’ll find that they have companies selling empty motor cans and blank armatures. Just the job for winding your own!
You don’t have to wind with just 1 wire either, you can pair 2 or more thinner wires up and then wind this ‘rope/braid’ around the arm.
Make sure you put equal winds on each side, and that the sides are balanced.
Unfortunately Mini4WD didn’t make it big here, you’ll usually have to visit Asia for goodies like that.
Your ESC can be reinforced with a FET upgrade or one of those ‘turbo’ thingys, don’t know how those work though.
Quote:i’m not too sure where the hydrogen comes from
all i know is that reaction is easy to start then the one which recharges the battery
but if it produces O2 as well as H2 it’s even more dangerous….
not enough oxygen creates a fireball like effect, enough oxygen creates an explosionHaha, its not a “reaction”, its just electrolysis of water.
Just get a beaker of clean water, add a little acid to it to
make it pass a current and stick 2 electrodes into the water.
Power them up with about 12V and lots of amps, and pretty soon
you’ll see gas bubbles rising from the electrodes.I *think* you’ll get H2 from the +ve and O2 from the -ve; you’ll get twice as much volume of H2 than O2.
2H20 => 2H2 + O2
which is the perfect ratio for complete combustion back to H20. (Its just the energy you’ve pumped in getting released out, its a zero sum game.)
Quote:and after it explodes you wouldn’t want all that battery acid and stuff on your faceAnd you thought lemon juice on raw wounds was bad!! 😯
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