PandaBear
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Quote:that was some serious post whoring on the other forum Panda, it brings tears to my eye. such nice work…
coming from you Shypo… now *that’s* saying sunthin’!! :shy: No man, only the post pimp in pink could have done it better.
Quote:BTW who gets Banners ads coming up properly all the time?What banner ads? blackeye:
Quote:my dad once threw a lawnmower in the pool cos it wasnt working the way he hopedJeez… your dad has a problem! 👿
Getting it WET is probably the last way to make it start!! 😀Ya!
btw, I see nothing wrong with parking the 1:1 on the loungeroom floor. (You notice that is always only the women who whinge/cringe at that suggestion? :))
This is a great read if you want to fit some custom mZ bodies!
Spare gears are available for the steering servo if you strip them in an impact.
Ya, always run with the body… I’m still running mine naked and I think the front wheels are looking pretty vulnerable!!
Hmm… wonder if I can make some thick foam “car bra” thingys for the body I eventually get.
Quote:BTW panda, you told me that when the mini z goes out of range, it will stop………..i dunno where u got that idea, cause mine just goes off on it’s own lil adventure.Yeah, I know… imho its crappy ESC design!! 🙁
Over the years its become habit to always turn my car on FIRST before the TX, this is so that if there’s anyone playing on my freq then I won’t kill his fun/car/life by just turning on my TX blindly.
All ESCs I know of won’t power the motor unless there’s a confirmed signal from the RX; servos to an ‘on’ RX might glitch once but then they just sit there.
I dunno what makes the mZ ESC does do its own thing whenever there’s no signal. Not sure if its hypersensitive to stray atmospheric radio signals (doesn’t seem to be any pattern) or it just creates its own. Putting a mobile phone or different freq TX near it doesn’t make much difference.
When we used to have a 4BR house I used to run 1/10 indoors, but since we’ve moved into a 2BR flat (with the *same* amt of furniture) a 1/28 mZ is all there is space for. 🙂 Even a 1/18 Micro RS4 HPI is probably a bit too big/fast, although the 4WD might help. Our “wierd-pile” carpet makes the mZ drive like a crab… sideways diagonally.
Its a personal preference more than anything.
It does make your box a little less portable/pocketable though!!
Yup, Belconnen has been in the news a bit.

Let’s hope for the best, with some luck & prayer it might not be as toasty as they predict.
Quote:Oil shocks of some kind – Possibly I may buy a new set of Super Low Frictiosn for the TA03 and migrate the current ’03 oilers to the TL01No good, tourers use shortie 2.5″ thingies. Buggy needs 3-4″ shockers. TA03 ones won’t have enough volume, you’re better off just sticking with the frictions.
Quote:Some more “roady” (Road Hawgs or whatever they’re called) tires instead of the spikesDunno where you can find them here, and Proline stuff ain’t cheap. But yeah, running those step spikes on tarmac will bald them quicksmart.
Quote:Only other stuff I’d considered was the weightweight shafts (driveshafts etc)Std dogbones work well, don’t bother changing. Don’t lube them either, except with graphite powder. Better off ungreased VS grease with grit in it.
Who’ll be FIRST to build a BCG DYNO? 🙂
Again… take a look at QFM or search some earlier threads.
You checked out QFM yet?
Quote:hmmm just grab a new pullback 2000GT skyline body, paint it silver all over, and BAM .. number 51/51 😀That’s just the car… but what about the SPECIAL BOX?? 😀
Warning! Resist all desire to hop up this vehicle. If you do start bolting option parts onto this thing, you’ll spend lots-n-lots of $$$ for very little gain! 🙁
Main things to consider are bearings & ESC (got them), and perhaps some oil shocks and hotter motors.
Enjoy it for what it is, there is no need for hopups.
TL01B isn’t a bad car… its one solid creature too. Parts are cheap and plentiful, and parts count is pretty low anyway – not much to go wrong.
You have bearings so this shouldn’t be a problem, but main hassle has been ppl either over/under lubricating the bronze bushes near the motor. This can create enough heat on the shaft to melt the chassis plastic.
Quote:Hi i would like to know has anyone got any ideas to bend my axle straight because it came bent. anyone got any ideas.Be careful when removing the axle from the packaging… its possible to bend it when trying to prise it out!! blackeye:
This is the original (non Booster) TX right?
‘Cos the new Booster TX is a totally different PCB, with a few more blobs.
Quote:…Only problem was that the mini z was too quick for the track lolThe MiniZ is fully-proportional – hint hint!
If you no wanna go so fast, you press the gas less!! 🙂
NiMH will take quite a bit of abuse.
If you run them for 10 mins and not gonna run it again for a few days, then discharge them flat.
If you’re just about to race… then maybe you might wanna just top them up a bit.
Higher current charging usually makes them a bit perkier, compared to trickle charging. But you need a deltapeak charger to be safe.
Quote:i guess you cant say **** in these forums! how about any other swear words?****! what are you ****ing trying to do to this ***ing forum my dear *****??! Whatta *****, don’t be a ****ing bad example to all the **** kiddies reading this ****site.
(Yes, I deal with ****ing Truckies a lot. :blush:)
Quote:i guess you cant say **** in these forums! how about any other swear words?****! what are you ****ing trying to do to this ***ing forum my dear *****??! Whatta *****, don’t be a ****ing bad example to all the **** kiddies reading this ****site.
(Yes, I deal with ****ing Truckies a lot. :blush:)
Quote:that was meant to be w a n k e l.Rotary engines still have to move their rotors, they just move in an eccentric orbit. The crankcase is like a figure-8 and the triangle rotor shifts back-n-forth as the crank rotates.
Nah, the only true rotary engine is a gas turbine. Pure simple spinning action: 50,000 rpm is their *idling* speeds!! :shy: Played with one at uni before… quite an impressive gadget.
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