PandaBear

[PandaBear]

BCGs really don’t have enough power to do serious power-on slides, the most you could wish for is hooking the tail out whilst turning a corner.

Try putting hard tyres on the back, then driving on a glass tabletop.

Nothing like a bigger RC though, with full proportional control – especially a big 21 buggy with tons of excess power. It’ll go sideways more than it goes forwards.

[PandaBear]

Haha, oh yeah, thanks FIREFOX for coming over here to the New Forum. You re the one who posted recently in the Oldie, right? :smiley2: Welcome!

[PandaBear]

Haha, oh yeah, thanks FIREFOX for coming over here to the New Forum. You’re the one who posted recently in the Oldie, right? :smiley2: Welcome!

[PandaBear]

Actually if you have a big space drifting is not that hard… its just practising car control on the edge of losing it’.

Keeping the car sideways AND intact when the road is narrow & windy is a lot harder 🙂 (not to mention avoid spilling the tofu).

[PandaBear]

Actually if you have a big space drifting is not that hard… its just practising car control on the edge of ‘losing it’.

Keeping the car sideways AND intact when the road is narrow & windy is a lot harder 🙂 (not to mention avoid spilling the tofu).

[PandaBear]

Yeah, “best” out of a heap of brown dog logs perhaps. 🙁

[PandaBear]

Guess I’ll be spokesman here and announce: we’re aiming for zero activity on the Old Forums by the End of the Month ie 31 Jan 2003.

[PandaBear]

HPI made so many different ones called “RS4” that its not uncommon to find used ones in the 2nd hand rack for under $200.

Common ones are:

1/10 RS4 (the 1st and original 1996 car)
1/10 RS4 Pro
1/10 RS4 Sport
1/10 RS4 Pro 2
1/10 RS4 Sport 2
1/10 RS4 Pro 3 – latest, comes in various specs
1/10 RS4 Rally
1/10 Nitro RS4 (gas version of Sport)
1/10 Nitro RS4 Racer
1/10 Nitro RS4 2
1/10 Nitro RS4 Racer 2
1/10 Super Nitro RS4 (SuperTen size)
1/18 Micro RS4

Pro 3 was the first all-new redesign for 2000, otherwise all the RS4s (except the MicroRS4 onviously) shared many common parts.

Snooping around the tracks, its quite easy to find MicroRS4s being sold 2nd hand for < $200 too.

[PandaBear]

Thought you can now upload a pic of yourself under your Bio.

[PandaBear]

Aren’t 850mAh AAAs available here yet?

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I had opportunity recently to discuss with several battery wholesalers/distributors in Asia, into the conversation fell details regarding the stuff that certain Oz chainstores sell for cheap.

When a factory manufacture a cell, even with the tightest quality controls you will still get a varied range of quality coming out the other end. What the company does is then *test* the cell, and then grade them according to specs.

There are various grades of rechargeable cells… highest is “Milspec”, then comes “Industrial” and then “Consumer – branded”. All these have to meet certain preset specifications.

Then all the remaining rejects get sold off too… usually as unlabelled cells of unguaranteed performance. Its not uncommon to find shorted or open-circuit cells within this lot; sometimes this refuse is even sold “by the kilo”.

In this industry, you get what you pay for.

[PandaBear]

I suspect when Aaron says Steve is bringing in “a box”, that’s a *crate* of the things, not just One Unit. :smiley2:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

…so we can all get spare shells nice and cheap.

Err… how much *are* the pullbacks anyway??

Somehow I can’t imagine them being cheaper than a standard spare shell, how can that be?

[PandaBear]

Ya – New Beetle so boring, they should have made the classic old one instead. blackeye:

Pity about the Mini… Chris Flowers must be real disappointed.

Talking of whom – anyone heard from Chris lately?

[PandaBear]

I have a Raytek MT4 thermogun :blush: to play with, hopefully that’ll detect overheating before any melted plastic eh?

Works great on everything from foreheads to nitro engines and frying oil. 🙂

[PandaBear]

Kitty’s low profiles must be pretty furry by now, if she still uses the mZ to chase her pussies. :blush:

[PandaBear]

HPI mRS4 appeals more to the existing RC crowd, as it needs to be built from kit and RC gear installed. Newbies who can’t be bothered building go straight for the MiniZ Kyosho instead.

Although yes an RTR version of mRS4 is now available, pricewise its as much as a entry-level 1/10 car so there’s not much advantage on price.

Dunno why ppl say its expensive to run… not much more than a MiniZ I’d say.

Design-wise the mRS4 is fantastic. It handles well with its 4WD, chassis is very adjustable including twin diffs and it is also adjustable for wheelbase and width. Larger 1/18th size makes it able to accept ‘normal’ radio gear, so if you’re a RCist already you can recycle all your older gear. Heaps of hopup options available, from suspension to motors and batteries.

[PandaBear]

Shiny metal ones good only for jap tincan like the Toyo Echo.

You’ll need carbon-ceramic ones for your GT3, Jamie. 🙂

[PandaBear]

Quote:

…i soldered 2 10nF caps across the can and …

Already got 2, better with 3rd.

2: from each terminal to ground/can.
1: between the 2 terminals.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

it doesnt really affect the car that much but is pissing me off heaps..why is this caused? is it interference from the coil? or back emf from the motor?

I have a feeling that the extra current draw is starving your radio gear and causing glitching.

Try this:- get some caps and wire them across the battery. A nice big cap is good but a whole lot of smaller ones adding to the same uF is better (faster response time).

[PandaBear]

Ya – heaps of those stickons available for mZ, 1/10 and Maxxes, even seen metal discs for Micro RS4s.

But my big question is… of course they won’t work, ‘cos Where’s the Brake Calipers??

[PandaBear]

Well, if you ask the battery it’ll tell you any motor will look like a deadshort to it.

Resistance also generates heat. With the extended runtime of the NiMH, might find it heating up more than the nicad by the time its flat at run’s end.

Hmm… now I wanna go get some GP12AAAMs for experimenting! 👿

[PandaBear]

Quote:

That’s a pity. I was hoping to hear it’s a world of Clones with awesome bodies all going dirt cheap. Oh well. Dream on.

Yeah, wierd huh?

I didn’t see too many clones around HK, definitely nothing
in a bullet container. A few odd LXXes but apart from that
everything is genuine Tomy.

Given that cheapest BCG I saw was HK$130, not surprising.
$130 is less than cost of a decent meal, and costs
more than that to just park your car for a whole day.
Its dirt cheap to a Hongkie… 🙂

[PandaBear]

Quote:

ummm did you go to the right place?:p
i’m on holiday in hk right now…
brand new ae86 trueno digiQ-R’s for hk$280
mini-z’s for hk$500-600
also seen the bit char-g pull backs

Yes we discovered Mongkok, if that’s what you mean.
That’s where most of the RC shops usually are, all in 1 spot.

I was there 1st week of Jan; couple of shopkeeps I asked
re BCG pullbacks said they had “just shipped” from Japan
but not yet arrived yet. How much are they?

BCG option packs & body packs are $20-50.
BCG cars even easily found in department stores.

Yes forund ‘normal’ MiniZs are approx $550, the newer/rarer ones
usually $600 and the F1s are up to $650. The 4X4 ones are
still asking for up to $800 though.

[PandaBear]

PLEASE POST ALL NEW TOPICS TO THE NEW FORUM.

That said, there is a “Drift axle” available from Tomy. Its just 2 hard plastic wheels instead of rubber tyres for the back. It comes in the option pack with the 3 front suspensions, or possibly in the Trueno car pack too.

This thing won’t instantly turn you into a drift king (more likely donut king) and you can get similar results by just putting tape over your rear tyres.

Or better still, get both BCG & Bit Racer tyre sets and put a soft tyre in front with a hard tyre at the back. This route is much more controllable & adjustable.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Pandabear, im not quite getting what you are getting at, was your first mini z faulty or something?

Nah, I’m just an F40 freak.

I’ll collect anything that remotely looks like an F40
as long as its RED… and when Kyosho announced their
new models for xmas that had me suckered line-n-sinker.
Bought purely as a shelfqueen only though; but I always
check the electronics are working before reboxing it up.

btw Red original F40s are bloody hard to find!!!
The yellow ones are much easier to come by.

Had resisted buying a mZ so far until this… but
as usual once you get 1 they just keep coming.
Steve @TradingDirect did me an irresistable deal this
week so I soon should have something to play with too.
And start doing experiments… :smiley2:

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