PandaBear
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With internal resistance, lower is better.
Otherwise its just a restriction on how fast
current can flow to the motor.Same thing occurs in bigger RC. When NiMH first
came on the scene they were of higher resistance
and felt less “punchy” than NiCds. With ongoing
development this has now been eliminated and
NiMH now performs much like NiCd.You kiddin’? Of course!! :blush:
Unfortunately nothing much of interest out there,
especially on the Tomy side of things… boring.
Just saw the usual Wild Char-G duo, a whole lot of bus BCGs, SpeedRacers etc. Spare bodies just the few usual ones.
Didn’t see any pullback BCG cars, just the PennyRacer ones.Pricewise nothing spectacular either, in HK they’re about
HK$200 (A$50) for a std BCG kit. The newer ones like
AutoModellista are up to HK$300, some unpopular oldies
as low as HK$130. Prices are “after negotiation” btw;
there’s no such thing as sticker prices and if they
suss you’re a tourist they’ll be out to skru you.
I think I just pass as a ‘local’. 😉Takara’s Digi-R is out (with ‘real’ steering) as is the
Yokomo Puchimaru (sp?), but I don’t think these were cheap.
I didn’t get time to demo either of these.Kiddies in HK and S’pore/Malaysia are into some silly
“battle tops”… from my last visit to TRU, I think the
same craze is here with us too.Bomberman is passe.
I think that’s a QFM mod too.
They just used the system from some diecast car that comes with a range of clipon wheels/tyres.
Imho quality control shouldn’t be *that* bad… I’ve had about 20 2.2s go through my hands, haven’t seen any that are in any obvious way slower or faster than the others.
If any car doesn’t perform then a rebuild usually fixes things. I can spent 1-2 hrs just tinkering making sure everything works smoothly.
The motors (2.2) don’t slow down much with age either… difference between a very-used example compared to one just unwrapped is negligible.
One last possibility – hasn’t happened to me but I’d think its possible to accidentally bend the motor shaft when you stab it on the pinion. This will guaranteed give wierd performance.
I can see you either starting WW3 in Warhammer, or “micro RobotWars”… 🙂
Original Tomy BCG wheels are available in chrome, silver/grey or black. They’re all 8-spokers.
You *could* also fit some from the KIT Racer, check out QFM for this very tricky mod.
There are also some guys (German?) making aluminium wheels to suit.
Changing the wheels is tricky as you have to yank them off then try to put them back on. The back ones need glueing onto the axle – not hard. But the front ones need the pin taken out, and getting these to fit back in properly is usually very hard.
If just swapping wheels between BCGs, it is always better to swap the whole steering knuckle and rear axle.
Make sure your motor contacts are clean, don’t forget the motor case is a contact too.
When installing it, TURN the motor so that the endbell’s contact tab is as far front as possible (3 o’clock position when looking at it end-on).
Pls don’t get your hopes totally inflated though… the Orange=2.6 isn’t spectacularly faster than the Yellow=2.2 motor.
Drag both side-by-side and you’ll barely see the difference. Even after 8′ the 2.6 car is less than 2-3″ further ahead.
Quote:Sorry Panda, if the button is a small bump on the +ve terminal then the 1/4 AAA NiMH I found has a button. I don’t know if the Tomy is 1/3 AAA or not, haven’t seen the 1/3 AAA NiMH at the local GP outlet here:( to compare to the Tomy, maybe I will check again this weekend?I could only find 1 specsheet for a 1/3AAA NiCd – Sanyo’s “Cadnica N-50AAA”. Its meant to have a nominal height of 15.0mm including button, width is 10.0mm. Internal resistance is 55mO.
GP’s specsheet for GP12AAAM 1/3AAA NiMH available too… but its nominal dimensions are 13.7mm high and 10.0mm wide (go figure!). Internal resistance is 170mO.
Dunno who makes the Tomy cell in China, could even be GP (they’re huge over there) if its not Sanyo. However it is common for Sanyo to wrap OEM batteries in green, so it could be theirs also.
(Any eagle eyes spot why I typed in the Internal Resistances?)
Quote:Thanks for the info on the washers, I was going to go this route but was unsure if which metal I should use? Was going to try copper?? Any ideas guys?BCGs don’t suck that much power, I don’t think it really matters what the metal is. if you can’t find some small copper washers, easiest would be to snip up a coke can and then stamp out some discs using a holepuncher.
Waaay OLDER than that, Dan.
Try 70s… early 70s at that. :shy:Quote:Thanx Panda, who chu callin shy fool,Haha, just a play on your name Dan. :smiley2:
Quote:good 2 c u back, havent seen u in agesBack from “holidays”… now feeling a lot worse for wear.
Had to travel to Malaysia & Singapore to finish up some
family business, and dropped into Hong Kong on the way back.Checked up on AUSMICRO a coupla times whilst o/s… but couldn’t
remember the password to logon!! blackeye: Damned this cookie’d
convenience of home PC… never need to type passwords.
🙂Solder some small ceramic capacitors across the brushes… might reduce the arcing.
Pinions might be interchangeable with the HPI MicroRS4… but not 100% sure.
Bought my F40 last week but will have to wait for another mZ to arrive before I get to compare; took me an hour to repack the 1st Kyosho’s original packaging, darned if I’m gonna be opening that again in a hurry. 🙂
Tomy’s battery is a 1/4 AAA *with* a button.
I’d bet the GP 1/4 AAA NiMH you’ve found doesn’t have the +ve button.
These are all commercial industrial battery sizes, so they’re not ‘special’ for Tomy only. It would be horrendously expensive to go invent your own battery size, its easier to just design your equipment around an existing battery.
If you don’t want to bend your contacts, use some small washers to space out the battery. Just one or two round 2-3mm washers is enough.
That 935 looks like a putty job on an RX7 donor. Close enough but not truly accurate unfortunately. RX7 has wrong door profile for the 911 shape.
Haha, thanks for your vote Brett.
Nah, me dun care much about point-scoring. I’ll leave that hijinx up to our Shy pimp from Sydney. 😉
Your local DSE might not stock lacquered copper wires in various guages… but alternatively you could try taking a peek inside old AC transformers. These all use copper windings, their size would indicate how thick their wire is likely to be.
Just about any mains-operated device & powersupply would have a transformer inside, a technician’s backyard would be great to find junk whitegoods to pull trannies out of. 🙂
Usually when the Mini4WD kiddies rewind their motors they do it with less winds using thicker wires, not just snip off a few winds.
I don’t think “Tamiya” standard motors included in kits are anything different to the $2 “130” motors you can buy at DSE. Tamiya just buys them from China etc like anybody else, they’re not badged. Tamiya’s branded option hopup motors are different matter altogether.
Less winds with thicker wire will pass more current through the magnetic field, thus more power. It will also increase current – make sure your stock ESC isn’t overloaded.
PR bodies and wheels are easily INTERCHANGEABLE with the mZ.
Depending on your LHS (local hobby store), some might find that buying a whole new PR kit is cheaper than buying new bodies and tyres for your mZ.
Main difference between Mini-Z (mZ) and PalmRunners (PR) is:-
Kyosho’s mZ is fully-proportional RC, whereas the PR is on/off control only.
Controls in fully-proportional are “analog” in that the power or steering is activated as much as you move the trasmitter’s control – giving you anywhere from nothing to full speed with everything in between.
On/Off control only gives All or Nothing.
Currently the only thing that is RC *and* shoots a projectile is TokyoMarui’s tank that fires BBs.
In HongKong the RC shops are all next to the toy Gun/Armoury shops… its amazing how they still haven’t yet crossed paths.
Quote:… The Rep points are reputation, I haven’t fully figured out how they function but …TWENTY HOUSE POINTS to Aaron for Honesty! 🙂
You can get up to 850mAh in NiMH AAA these days.
To quickcharge NiMH it is best to buy a proprietary peak-detect charger made for NiMH AAAs. Anything under 3 hrs is risky using a “universal” charger. There are some very nice ones sold by GP available overseas but I don’t know if anybody sells them here.
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