rcs2die4
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I still think the MR01 once fully hopped up is the best handling mini z out there !!! The only thing that comes close is the AWD but I still haven’t seen a FULLY hopped up and sorted AWD yet… But I think once the AWD is fully hopped it will probably be the best !!! but, I will never get rid of my MR01 – IT”S SO CHOICE ! — Sorry Ferris.. hehe
and if you set your TX correctly and have some skill you can make your MR01 have brakes !!!
Hmmmm off to T’R’U I go then !!!! I need another one !!! I can’t leave these things alone 😀
I did some mods to my first one !!! :smiley16:
Yeah the POT in the steering setup make the twitching !!! as long as it’s not to bad it wont bother your driving but if it starts to get to bad enough that it’s noticeable while driving then pull the front end down and clean the POT with some PCB cleaner (or that sort of thing) and it normally fixed it !!!! if it doesn’t then you can buy new ones !!!
The shells are quite strong but the front lip does cop a beating !!! but it’s fun driving up the butt of the car in front, they just go up and over you !!!! it makes for a good pass !!! hehehehe
Ummm I’ll look in the shed tomozza as I think I still have the box !!! The kit consists of three pressure cans but like I said it was up there in price considering it’s for just three cans of paint !!! I’ll get some details for you tomorrow sometime and post it up here !!!
TA Buddy,
Umm, The shell was about $30-$40 But the paint cost me a #### load It comes in three cans (Matt Black, Colour change, and Clear) as a kit…. it’s automotive paint..
I got the shell from RCMart (DinBall) But I dont know if they have them as they dont seem to sell covers anymore !! (well I couldn’t find them anyway!)
But you can get them from the Atomic website or from Ebay US !!!
Hay Dave, Hows things ??
The 02 is sweet Buddy.. 😉 I haven’t done a great deal to it yet as I’ve been concentrating on my AWD mostly But once
it’s done I’ll finish the 02!!! As you know this is my second 02, I could never get the first one to handle But I’m up for the
challenge yet again !!! LOLYes, Please do keep us updated on the track as I and A few mates up here would love to come and have a run !!! (and catch up.!.)
Hows the buggy going ?? Have you seen the post with the pix of my Half 8 ?? heres a link…
http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14083I’ll start a new post with some pix and info of the 02 so I’m not Hi-Jacking this thread to much !!! Sorry guys !!!
Here’s a link to the 02,
http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?p=225231#post225231Back to topic !!
Which Car does the AWD look like you reckon ???
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Hay all, It’s been a while !!
I haven’t been Z’ing for a bit as I have no where to use it anymore !!! :thumbs_down: But I
think I’ve just organized a place that a few buds of mine and I can race at again so fingers crossed !!!To get me G’d back up I thought I’d post up a few pix of the SAS kit installed in my AWD !!!
As you can see I still haven’t got around to getting the ball diff but I shell get one in the next week or two
and hopefully it will be back in action !!Anyway hopefully I’ll be back on here a fair bit again, so good times !! :beer:
They sure do !!! 😉
They fly with excellent control.. once you set the trim they just sit and hover! If you turn left,
left it go’s and the same for the right !!I can fly mine around my dining room for the full battery with no crashes and this was possible
straight out of the box !!! I can fly to something, land on it then takeoff and fly away !!!
I cant fly my “normal” heli’s to save my life !!!I have added the little weights that come with the heli (little alloy stickers) for a little more forward flight speed…
I paid $57 delivered (without the upgrade kit) and it’s worth every sent, they even have a voltage cut
off for the liPo battery in the heli itself and when the charging finishes on the TX and you forget about it,
the TX turns itself off after a few minutes…They are just awesome, I cant stop flying it…
Don’t let the clone dishearten you !! I spent $30 on the clone that was rubbish so I threw it in the
bin and got a real Picoo Z which cost me $75 with the upgrade kit (which I have not installed yet). so
thats $105 you may as well say and let me tell you, I’m as happy as a pig in —- ! 😀If you get a real silverlit picoo Z you will not be disappointed !!
Yeah there great fun hay..
Aaron get yourself a genuine one you will love it ! They may be twice as dear but there 100 times better, Makes you feel like your a pro ! HEHE !!!
Guys, Get yourself a genuine Silverlit Picoo Z…. They are awesome !!!!
I cant beleave how well the fly !!!
Word of warning guys !!!
Dont buy any of the knock off versions of the Picoo Z !! I know there half the price but they are the biggest load of crap !!!
I got one called a Pocket Heli from ebay (didn’t know it was a knock off at the time 👿 ) looks the same as the Silverlit
Picoo Z but thats about it !!!It flew well for about the frist two chargers but then it started having alot of issues, which I wont get it to now ( us less you
wish to know ?)So once it wouldn’t fly anymore, I started to do a little research to discover that this was infact a clone of Silverlit’s Picoo Z,
which I had never heard of before… I normally do alot of research before I buy anything but it was an impulse buy… saw it,
brought it, bad move… :gatlin:Now after much research I know that the only one to get is the real deal as everyone that has tried the 15+ different makes
of the “same thing” there is none that work or work for very long !!!And none of them have the control of the Real Silverlit Picoo Z !!
I’ve just purchased a true Picco Z from ebay and also the upgrade Carbon shaft and bearing kit !! all up $75 delivered !! not to bad !!
So lesson learnt and hopfully this post will help others to not make the same misstake I did !!! The only useable part from the clone
is the liPo battery as it seems to work well.Heres a link to the seller selling the real deal and also the upgrade kit.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/RC-Guys-AustraliaAn update on my previous post !!
The extended gears that come with the PN racing extended chassis kit seem to be a little crappy !! Mark and I basically use our AWD’s purely for drifting and this is very hard on most parts of the cars but the gear itself has only been in for a week and it is stuffed already to the point that it skips !!!
We thought that this may be caused by not using an extended center shaft !!!…. It turns out that this is not the case as Mark purchased an Atomic extended shaft only to find out that the PN extended gears don’t allow for the extra length shaft !!:angry: So he now has to order a set of Atomic extended gears as well !!! This has turned into a very expansive process !!! PN chassis extender kit + Atomic extender shaft + atomic extender gears = about $70aus delivered just to extended the chassis by 4mm !!! but it does make it 98mm wheel base which means more covers and it does change the handling quite a bit too !! for the better so far !!!
So for anybody wanting to go with the extended chassis setup !! Buy the Atomic extender kit as the kit includes the gears that allow for the extended shaft and if you then buy this shaft also it brings the total up to the price of just the PN extended kit !!!! About $38aus delivered
I also got the Atomic SAS rear end kit !!! I purchased the complete kit and also the 1deg Cambers and 1deg Toe-in parts !!! The quality seems good but there is a few little things with this as well !!
One being very much a pain in the a$$ for me as I now have to wait longer !! And this is a NOTE TO ALL !! if you buy this kit you also have to buy an Atomic Plastic or Metal ball diff as the standard Kyosho ball diff does not fit !!! This was not listed anywhere on the Atomic Site or on any of the resellers sites !!! I have asked EGR (where I purchased from) to update there site and there is now also a post at the bottom of the item page on Atomics site where someone else has had the same problem !!! I tried to follow up on this too but it wouldn’t let me post any new posts !!!:huh:
The only other problem I foresee is that the plastic that the U shaped part and also the rear shock mount is made of may be to flexible !! I think it should have been made from some harder plastic or maybe alloy and carbon fiber !! but, they may have done the softer more flexible plastic so it’s not so brittle…
I haven’t been able to test the SAS kit as of yet as I’m still needing to purchase a ball diff !!! So now that I had to also get a Ball diff it took my total for the SAS kit + 1deg camber + 1deg toe-in + Metal ball diff up to about $100aus delivered !!! :huh:… You will save a few dollars on delivery as you should purchase it all together instead of the diff separately like I did/had to !!! You could also save some more by purchasing the plastic ball diff instead of the metal one !! The total would then be about $80aus delivered for the Kit, the camber and toe and the plastic ball diff !!!
I think this kit will work well as the suspension feels real nice and makes the front seem a little inadequate !! it will also remove the problem of the holes rounding / ovalling out where the knuckles go !!! This is one of the big problems where having with the chassis’s from drifting !! it makes your settings go to s#!t as the knuckles flop around all over the place !! I have some ideas on how to fix this problem on the front but more on that later !!!
I’ll let you guys know how it all works out once the extra parts arrive !!!
LOL !!! Can’t wait to see it ph2t !!!
finally Someone !! HEHEHEHEHE
yeah, make some time and get that thing together !!!
Post some pics and let us know how she..or he go’s !!!
Come on… Somebody must have done something to there AWD !!!
I’ll have some pix up soon with whats been going on in my neck of the woods !!
A mate of mine has the PN Racing chassis extender kit !! Looks great on and the AWD chassis Looks sweet with a Mustang body on it Driftin round the house !!!… Tokyo Dirft eat ya heart out 😀
I’m thinkin of getting the Atomic extender kit !! it’s half the price of the PN kit or you could also get the Atomic extended centre shaft which brings it up to the PN price !! (The atomic kit wasn’t out when he got his)
I’ve also been thinking about getting the Atomic SAS kit but it’s up there in price if it dont make it work/handle any better !! and you still need to change parts if you want different camber and toe settings !! Would have been better if they could have made it adjustable “More like a 1/10 rear” with out needing to change parts ….
Anyone used the SAS rear end yet ??
Geee guys !!! The novalty warn off or something ????
No updates since July !!!!!
And a few more
Just thought I’d put the pic’s of my Half 8 up
Sorry but there not the best quality !!! I still haven’t bothered to
replace my good digi !! :gatlin:
Yeah the Sanyo 900 and 1000’s are sweet batteries !!! lots of punch !!! and there HR cells (hi discharge) so they handle the load of hot motors with no problems at all !!!
Also guys !! The Powertech batteries are ok but they are not HR cells and dont have the punch of the Sanyo’s !! They also dont last that long (I mean, they wont charge anymore !) either if you use them with even a semi hot motor !! I know this cause I’ve owned 4 sets and all of them did the same thing after a very sort time !!!… I charge my batteries with a Supernova 250s charger at .1 of an amp !! so it’s not from using a S#!TY fast charger or anything…
Now that i’ve used the Sanyo’s I dont bother with any of the others. Even know they cost more there worth every dollar…
Excellent !!!
I’ve done some upgrading on mine too !!! (Half 8)
I purchased the Half 8 second hand (Ebay, only 3 months old…)
completely stock bar motor..The list now go’s…
(3 Racing)
Blue alloy front lower and upper arms
Blue alloy rear arms
Blue alloy front and rear shock towers (not to sure of the brand of the rear tower)
Blue alloy front and rear hubs
Blue alloy front and rear Ball diffs (The new generation ones)
Blue alloy center Ball diff
Blue alloy ball bearing steering swing/saver
Titanium center drive cups for the front and rear diff inputs
Hub bearing kit
Yellow 5 spoke rims with tires(GPM)
Silver alloy front bumper
Silver alloy front and rear body mounts(TOPCAD)
Silver alloy motor mount
Silver alloy Wheel hexes
Silver alloy King pins(Yeah Racing)
Silver Front and rear uni drive shafts
Silver lite weight center drive shafts(Sato)
12, 13, 14, 15, 16t motor pinion gear setNot bad since I’ve only had it about 4 weeks !!!:)
The electronic are all standard bar the motor, it had a Venom FireBall micro series in it when I got it… The motor is a little to small for the motor mount. it looks the same size as a Speed 300 but the mounting holes are closer together and as a SP300 wont fit, either will the FireBall !!! it only has one screw holding it in but as of yet it hasn’t moved at all !!
The next step is to go brushless !! I’ll be using a Quark 33A ProCar ESC but I’m not to sure yet what motor I’ll be using, but it will be one “or two” of the following !!! 😀 Mamba 2080 (8000kv), Dynamite C4 (9000kv), Himark 2015-8 6800KV, Himark 2015-10 5400kv or Hacker E30-13L (4200kv) :confused: :confused: :confused: Hmmmm….
Also Aaron, Let us know how good the GPM FRONT, CENTER and REAR Alloy diff casings are as I will be after a set of silver ASAP if they fit/work well ??? (we all know that GPM can have some QA issues sometimes !!! 😯
I’ll get some pix of mine up ASAP
Also Guys Dont forget I have a nano forsale !!!! read my signature below !!!
Betty K,
Thats the stuff !!! I should have put the brand !!!Everyone,
The brand I use is ZAP !! I use this brand for all my hobby gluing needs, especially when I’m building RC planes from bulsa it drys in seconds instead of waiting for hours for wood glue to dry !!! The three main ones are the ZAP CA dries in 1-5 sec (PINK), Slo-Zap CA dries in 30-60 sec (YELLOW) and ZAP-A-GAP CA+ dries in about 20 sec (GREEN). For thread making I use GREEN as it has better gap filling properties for making the thread!!! To glue plastic to plastic use Plasti-Zap as the pink, yellow and green can (not always) leave a white haze on the joinTheres even special foam safe glue for when you/I build rc planes from foam it’s called ZAP-O (O for odorless).. it’s sweet stuff,
Heres a link to all there different types for glue….
http://zap.supergluecorp.com/zapglues.htmlKlims,
yeah mate I just put a drop of green ZAP on top of the hole, it sorta makes a bubble over the top !!! then screw in the screw…The reason I dont screw the screw all the way in, is because sometimes it makes it very hard to get the screw back out once the glue has set !!! I normally leave a gap of about 2mm.. I’ve never had an issue removing the screw if i’ve left the gap !!
Hope the info helps !!!
Hey klims,
I have always just put a drop of CA glue on top of the hole and then screwed
in the screw most of the way (not all the way!!!) in. This pushs the glue down the hole and creates a new tread !!! let it dry completey then undo the screw, and your good to go… it has always worked well for me !!!Edit !!!
HEY HEY, I’m not a New Enthusiast anymore !!! woohoo !!!
The colour of the wires going to the POT doesn’t matter !!! as long as it’s wired the same as in the diagram !!
Merc… A PM is going your way now…
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