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what kind of leds did you use i put some on my skyline and my whit foglamps look blue

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if your batt gets to hot it can burn out so maybe thats what happend just take it off and try to charge it on the controle and see if it gets any power chances are its burnt out.

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thats a really really good set up. just remember they sell thicker and thinner grip pads for the remote and diff top cover covers.

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but it sets the cones back alot.

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nothing but a mr2 body to a old mr and the tires and rims and rims

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All good but i got a few switches

that esc is junk and really only ment for stock motors get the novak Dually has 2 preprogrammed profiles for mod and stock coust about 89.99 and has no motor limit.
a better esc will give you longer faster run times.

get the futaba 3pdf-x has bette features and is easer to program. and but a std. futaba servo for stering.

your also gonna need a batt. pack becouse if your gonna race and you show up with a 1500 people like me will laugh at ya “you got the best truck use the best stuff.”

DuraTrax Sanyo RC-2400 6-Cell Flat Standard There allmost giveing you that really good price and top of the line cells.

Team Orion Rocket GP3300 V-Max 7.2V Stick Pack Higher mha but lower qualty cells but still good prive for $54

Trinity VIS EX-TRA 3000 6 Cell Team Side x Side same cells i use the ultamate cell i love um but there pricy $90

also switch all your connecters to either light speed/power poll or ws deans there way better and cheep.

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its easy just ta brake in your motor just use atleast 15% nitro use good fule like blue thunder or wild cat.
set your high speed needle 2 1/2 turns from closed and run 6 tanks of fule through it never keep a stedy constant throtle on a new eng keep giveing and leting off the gas. after that reset your high speed to 1 1/4 turn from closed and your done.

after you brake in your eng. you can port and polish it. its realy easy and all you need is dremal and it adds alot of power but well cover that when you get that far.

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what kind of pics are you looking for?

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the plasma is like the x speed some times ya get a dud.

i just rewound my phantom 8turn single with flatwire and made it a 5 turn hex and wow that thing hulls mayjor azz.

trinyt did tell me when winding a mini morot keep the strands as flat as i can and they gave me some links to some of the motors they have that will fit in a mini z

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if you make a sway bar softer its the same thing as softer springs but your talking about very little shock travle and really it isent worth doing anything for it.

most people ruin bits on smooth floors so they dont need any suspension and a small 1mm bum is like hitting a speed bump in a realy car doin 80mph to a bit.

you can use the grease from hpi micro r34 front shocks to provide some damp. springs allways have and allways will suck on bits thats the reason tomy went with sway bars.

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depends on what shipping you got. i got 2-3 day and i got it in 4 days. i got normal shipping on a usb mem card for liksang.com and it took a little over 2 weeks

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or just wate till the rc10 monster gt comes out. i plan on buying 1 as soon as i can get my hands on 1 just look at the size of it the eng and trans i think that truck can dethrone the maxx but ask any truck guy after the maxx was made they call after maxx and befor it was mad is pre maxx the best rtr rc truck ever to grace the world but the ek4 put up a good fight but just dident have the top end it needed ta keep up with the maxx’s so im wateing ta see if the monster gt can take the place of the maxx.

i seen the prototype monster gt and i seen some videos and holey crap looks alot faster than the maxx and has way more power.

also if you can get a rcx edition of the mad force thats a good truck outher than that the mad force is a turd.

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the new 2.5 tmaxx is pimpin new suspension thats wide than the old tmaxx so now its the same size as a 1/8th.

tmaxx also has more aftermarket parts from just about every company. you can use the new hpi savage rims and tires and bodys.

hands down the tmaxx is made better faster and dosent roll over like the thunder.

the tamiya terra crusher is a nice car i dont like the way the chassy is set up and how there alot of parts in the frat transmisson but they give you alot of exta parts and a .18 eng if you brake the eng in proberly you can hit speeds of up to 35mph.

i have a normal tmaxx thats about 3 years old and i love it stock its fast and theres alot of companys makeing parts for it. i just added a few parts ta keep up with the new 2.5 like hardcore racing titanum arms and arm extenders cvd’s muntant maxx .21 kit with a picco GIXP@! pro bv buggy eng 6+2+1 with a cvec pipe.

the muntant maxx chassy can fit 2 .21’s i havent got $700 for 2 new 21’s becouse they say you gotta brake them in at the same time but when i get some extra money im switchin to xp21es’s i also put the diff spool in my front and rear diff’s

i saw that theres some problems in the 2.5 max tho the motor mount is really weak you can get a hardcore titanum mount for $35.

if you get a tmaxx and use a rear diff spool its funn it picks the front tires up easy bone stock. just dont use it onroad use it in dirt untill you switch all your driveshafts with cvd’s becouse your just gonna rip out the driveshafts.

the terra and maxx coust the same and are rtr but the maxx has more optional parts but the terra has bigger tires but theres a clod converson for the maxx for $40

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i had a gas but rolled it over and sank it.

i hurd really good things about the updated traxxas elctric boat

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just use a micro reciver and a aftermarket esc they all got drag brakes

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celica becoue it looks cool with a zip zap spoiler and if you paint all the grill’s and air intakes silver.

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xxt sport and the t3 rtr are just about the dame car.

i had problems with my dog bones ejecting when i did big jumps with my xxt cr graphite plust so i had ta buy some new cvd’s for it heres a tip if you get cvd’s use red thred lock on the grub screw or it comes out when you use a mod.

i give props ta lost for not skimping on qualty they give ya a jr xr-2 remote “really really really nice remote best ta ever grace a rtr car ever’ nice motor and dont skimp on qwualty

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now your in a diff. class. i think that the mt is overpriced you can convert a losi xxx4 into a truck or a schumacher cat 3000 and there much better cars. bolth the cat and xxx4 are really good4wd cars and in the reedy mod’s the losi was first cat 2nd and another cat 3rd i dont know what outher cars were racing but i like schumacher alot.

i got a cat2000 that i dont use anymore and i loved that had a buddy body a under body handeled well and was fast. i know the 3000 has alot of improvement so its gotta be a nice car.

i think not shure the xxx4 is a xxxs chassy thats ben reworked i know the xx4 and xxs shared the same chassy.

i love my 4wd buddy i got proline sand paws on all 4 and i take it to the sanddunes and its fun

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yeah springs really dont do anything for these cars.

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i used plumbing epoxy puddy on mine ta keep it from beaing to stick just put a little little bit of flower on it

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kinda looks like a elcameno. you need ta put so 24 in larenzos on it or some dubs or better yet make those zz hub caps keep spinning when you stop then make a escalade body

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theres 3 chassys going into final produstion the z-28 sts and the bomber. the z-28 is the same as the bomber but the sides dont have any kick up and its lighter than the bomber.

the sts is a drag chassy with 1 deck lighed. what means theres no upped deck so you need to use either a w plate o plate or x plate.

the bomber handles the best on tracks with alot of turns and can have the cells mounted in diff. styles for traction.

the sts

84.4 mm long
44.0 mm wide
2.5mm thick

the z-28

85.0 mm long
53.0 mm wide
2.5 mm thick

the bomber

85.0 mm long
56.7 mm wide
2.5 mm thick

the bomber will have optional upper decks some time in the upcomeing week.

body mounting, The bomber kit will have slots in the side for the side mounts but you need to the mounts on your body a little so they fit int he slot. “just cut the front off” the rest of the chassy im still working on the side mount problem so im open for ideas on that but they all use the stock front nose clip for the body.

tomorrow after i lighten the bomber prtotype i’ll be racing a mini z with a proz chassy “fiberglass verson” to make everything fair were useing new outta the box x speeds same cells 900mha nimh and stock mini z parts nothing aftermarket but the chassys.

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i tend to stay away from speed gems becoue there wound like crap. try these

Associated Ti Modified 14T Double Motor $54

Team Orion Rush 15×2 $15

Trinity D4 9T High Variance Split Double Blank Motor $54

Trinity D4 15T Double High rpm Blank Motor
$54

Trinity P-94 12T Layered Double Motor
$52

Trinity P-94 Matt Francis 11T Double Armature
$34

Tower Hobbies Speed Secret 14T Quad Modified Motor
$20

Peak Performance Jaguar 13×2 Motor
$15

a flatline will coust ya $65 if you can find 1 but oh yeah they got so much power.

outta all thos go for the orion or the jag. when the brushes get low just through it away get a fresh motor ” we can all be like the pros now” screw new brushes

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well i made 3 prototypes all in 2.5 plastic. the final product will be offerd in molded cf molded fiberglass and diff. color clear plastic.

the clear plastic chassy have some kick up on the sides and are dual deacks “still tweeking the top deck for some looks” theres side kick up so the cells can hold on and batt. placement is going to be 1 cell on each side then 2 under the first deck that will be set back about a 1/4 inch. i found that this way it is more ballanced handles well dosent spin out as easy and is more stable at high speeds.

i just went head to head with my stock mini z and my 2nd z had my chassy i used all stock parts and stock h plates and i found that my chassy had more traction and had more controle through the turns.

then came rally time for this i used lego tires and i would get full speed with a x speed and do a 30 deg. turn from hard wood onto carpet and allmost every time the stock z fliped but my chassy never fliped.

im priceing some things i might offer with the chassy like 2 AA cell holdes for the side so all you gotta do is connect 1 wire then hook up the + and – to the pcb.

so far as fine tuneing i just wanna make a new front peace that the sway bar goes into becoue the part im ueing now is ugly but works on my prototype.

there might be 1 more final evalution of the chassy but so far im holding my pcb onto the top plate with some velcro so its kina like the mini z f1.

heres what some choice you have for chassys G-10 fiberglass GF plastic or plexglass

i tested a plexiglass chassy and its more than enoguht for a mini z chassy so dont think its gonna be weak and its rather stiff to “thats a good thing”

i’ll post pics when im done with the prototype and i;ll make 3 clear dark blue chassy the same day im done and have them redy for sale when i post the pics.

the next evalution of this chassy will be able to fit 4 AA so bring on the high mha’s

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i allmost bought 1 but dident. they look cool they wont sink or anything. but if its anything like the firebird plane its cool.

onlything is you might wanna drop in a new esc and a orion big block in that puppy and give it 8 cells and watch what that boat can do with 30,000 rpm’s and lots of low end power.

bottom line worth $70 oh yeah 😉

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