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  • in reply to: aluminum rims w/ 3.0 & 3.8 motors #13855
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    • Posts: 5952

    is it me, or does the 16 spoke rim (3rd from the left) have a smaller hole? Where did you find these deejay, and are they for sale??

    in reply to: my first mod: 4-spokes rims #13854
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    • Posts: 5952

    hmm.. cool.. Any pics?

    in reply to: 4 Band Controller = Crap #13853
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    • Posts: 5952

    Guitar strings also come in many diffrent gauges and could be easily manipulated w/ wire cutters… I wonder if a thicker/thinner wire would make a diffrence.. or the material itsmade out of.. Ie, steel, copper, etc. ??

    in reply to: Sway Bars. What Difference do they make? #13852
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    The “Setting Parts Set” comes with three suspension bars label1, 2, & 3. They are all red. #1 appears to be exactly the same as the stock one, but red. #2 has two small holes on either side of the securing pin, and #3 has one big hole on either side of the securing pin and a half hole near the arm. I believe the numbers are from firmest to sofest, but I’m still testing. So far #2 seems to have the best control on a bumpy surface.

    in reply to: aluminum rims w/ 3.0 & 3.8 motors #13851
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    in reply to: aluminum rims w/ 3.0 & 3.8 motors #13850
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    • Posts: 5952

    where did you see the aluminum rims? i saw a german site had them, but not made yet.

    in reply to: Sway Bars. What Difference do they make? #13849
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    • Posts: 5952

    I have the Trueno Tune kit and it comes with 3 purple stabilizer bars, all softer than stock. On my kitchen floor (textured linoleum), the effect is thatsofter bars result in more understeer. Don’t know what the result is on other types of surfaces, but I would expect the same result.

    IIRC, the separate stabilizer bar set is made of red plastic, and I don’t know if there is a difference between the red or purple stabilizers.

    Anyone got both?

    in reply to: Bit Lar-g MONSTER TRUCK!!! #13848
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    • Posts: 5952

    Just follow my directions up top. I would post lengths and sizes but the lengths of the axles will differ depending on the wheels you find. You just have to find the wheels and make the truck from those dimensions.

    It sure is fun to drive. It runs a lot better on the tile now since it dosn’t jump at ever grout line. It also looks likea real moster truck when you turn because the front wheels almost touch the back ones! Really cool. I’ll be getting a friend with a digital camera that takes movies to film it Friday. Hope to get it to you guys soon.

    -Peter

    By the way, I took my WRX body off it and put on my Lancer Bullet body.

    in reply to: Dual Motor Bit Char-g #13847
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    Yes, THANK YOU FLOYDSKI.Can you tell I’m terrible at remembering numbers. The red 3.95:1 gears are the ones I tried. I had to use the white motor gear since the black one didin’t reach the secondary gear.

    By math you can tell the red gear set is more than 2 times faster then the standard orange gears of the bit char-g but like I said, it takes forever to get up to speed.

    -Peter

    in reply to: Ebay: Stellamodels and r10725 #13846
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    • Posts: 5952

    Stella models constanlt gets his stuff to me here in TX

    in reply to: My 4 cars (kinda big pic – be warned) #13845
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    to rye: Yeah, I made the decals on clear decla stock…
    to iceman: DOH! and I thought I did a pretty convincing focus mod….it started AS a pugeot…from an OEM bullet car…just like ylexot said…
    oh well, I’m constantly re-working it…it actually looks a bit more focus like since that picture…

    in reply to: Problems with 3.0 #13844
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    • Posts: 5952

    DONT TAKE APART THE MOTOR!

    According to the Tomy website, the 3.0 lucifer rotor requires a push start to operate. Itis designed for bitracers ONLY! If you didnt know, the bitracer is a slot car, which doesnt require steering because it runs on a slotted path. So what this means is that 3.0 motors sacrifice torque for top speed, which is great on a slot car track.

    Its part number begins with an “S” not a “G”, which means it was never meant to be used for bitchargs. In fact, the website recommends against using the 3.0 on bitchargs.

    If you want speed, get a 3.8 pink motor. There is more torque in that motor, and it doesnt require a push-start. But the 2.6 is by far the OPTIMUM choice for bitchargs. It provides the perfect ratio between speed vs steering.

    in reply to: Problems with 3.0 #13843
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    What do you mean burt out. If it made a bunch of noise you just need to lube the motor. If it stopped running you probably fried the brushes which will make for a good mod motor if you put your 1.0 brushes in it.

    I’ve swapped everything on these motors and the only difference I can tell is the motor rotor. The magnets and cases seem to all be the same. My 3.0 in a WRX toast my friends 2.2 in a RX-7. Even off the line. Then we swap motors and he beats me. My moded 3.0 is faster top speed and off the line compared to the 2.2 but you need a good set of brushes out of a 2.2 or 1.0 to make it work.

    -Peter

    in reply to: new 3.8 motors, info etc. #13842
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    Never actually measured the runtime on the 3.8 motor. Its definitely shorter… but not “significantly” shorter. What I mean to say, is it runs long enough to have fun with, that you wouldnt notice. I dunno, I am always having too much fun playing with my bitchargs, I never notice things like that. Im gonna have to test it tonight.

    On a different note, the motorola pager motors run forever! Okay, thats an exaggeration, but I would have to say they run about twice as long as a 2.2, and the speed is consistent until it finally conks out. Maybe its the motorola”flex” technology they put in there to extend battery life! hehe.

    I opened up an OLD OLD pager today to salvage the motor. Dont bother openingthe pagers with the narrow LCD screens at the top, cuz theyDONT FIT! Much too big! The newer ones allfit though. Anyone have any idea where I can find the specs for old motorola pagers to determine what the actual rpms are? Or perhaps where I can buy those motors separately? Is that a Radio Shack type of thing? or is that proprietary?

    deejay40

    — gonna be first to make a charG w/4×4 tires and absolutely no climbing ability. hehe. —

    in reply to: RE: Steering spring #13841
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    • Posts: 5952

    Would you pay $11 for the whole front end assembly? This would include the magnet, spring, stock sway bar, even new steering knuckles (that white piece the front wheel axles press into). It would also include a spare battery andPC board plastic cover. Do I have you convinced yet? OK, here it is.

    BUY AN OEM BULLET FROM TOY EAST. Yes it takes a while to mail and yes you’ll pay shipping but all these parts are interchangeable and they are only $11 at Toyeast.com.

    I think you’ll find the bulled is much faster anyway. Shave the body mounts down and put your bit body on it. Then reverse the motor wires and you can even use your bit remote with it.

    -Peter

    in reply to: Make Bullet Remote Compatible #13840
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    • Posts: 5952

    Reversing the steering and holding up-side-down makes throttle on right and steering on left. I’m sure you could get used to it. Also you couldn’t use the remote that comes with the bullet since the steering will be backward after reversing the magnet. It’s actually a rather simple mod to unsolder the wires going to the motor if you desolder them on the metal tabs instead of the PC board. The tabs are just behind and above the battery. The tabs are part of the metal frameowork around the motor. This simple mod makes the bullets controlable with the bit remote. Then mod the remote and you can use either remote for either car.

    The Bullet is SOOOOO fast. I modified my bulled front wheels to accept bit tires by machining the tire ridges a little bit. Now I have a bullet with bit tires, a bit body and a bit remote. Or shall I say I have a bit with a Bullet motor and gears (that’s pretty much what it boils down to). This thing screams! at least twice as fast as 2.2 regular digi.

    -Peter

    in reply to: Ebay: Stellamodels and r10725 #13839
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    • Posts: 5952

    yep that JO guy is cool got my orderto the UK in 5 days. He replied straight away to all my emails on other parts etc he does. Recomended

    in reply to: Dual Motor Bit Char-g #13838
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    • Posts: 5952

    The Bit Racer Gear set is as follows:

    4.57:1(blue)

    3.95:1(red) <


    This one?

    3.43:1(green)

    Char G Gears:

    9.86:1

    8.25:1

    12:1

    in reply to: still no rally track pics? #13837
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    Hahaha, So true. My pool table’s only 4 months old and the felt’s perfect. The cars are just as fast as on hard wood floor but they turn much better. The back wheels don’t come around as much and spin you around. The felt is the best surface I’ve ever driven on.

    -Peter

    in reply to: Dual Motor Bit Char-g #13836
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    • Posts: 5952

    I have a feeling that would not even move since the cars rely on 12:1 ratio for torque now and they don’t really take off that fast. Compared to my Digi-q that pulls wheelies. Anyway, without Gears the car would take off way to slow. I put on bit race red gears that were 8:1 (I think somewhere sround that) and it took a good 15 feet to get up to speed. Nice for top speed but not good for racing around. Without gears at all I think it would take 50 feet to get up to speed, even with two motors. I think the 8:1 gears with 2 motors would do pretty well.

    -Peter

    in reply to: 4 Band Controller = Crap #13835
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    • Posts: 5952

    i am sure it would be easy to do. so would a hard antenna mod. all the antenna has to do is touch the split metal peice before it exits the controller. also if you did want to use piano wire, you could by prying the dial apart and changing the wire. hmm. makes more sense than wrecking a controller. maybe next time. b

    in reply to: 4 Band Controller = Crap #13834
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    I wonder if we can find a suitable replacement material (piano wire perhaps?) for the antennas so we don’t have to decrease the range of one controller to increase the range of another.

    in reply to: off topic: aus. wrx #13833
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    • Posts: 5952

    a person that works with me has the wrx and his seats are kinda mushy and the material is so so. another friend who has a RS got some wrx seats from australia and they were waay different. just like how the typeR seat in the US and Japan are different.

    hmm. i don’t really care about the power anymore. i had a 250 hp car at 1 bar which was enough for me and that was before my boosted eclipse. i just like that blue color and wagon for my bikes. b

    in reply to: new 3.8 motors, info etc. #13832
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    I recognized that guys E-Bay handle. He does alot of business!

    -Floyd

    in reply to: new 3.8 motors, info etc. #13831
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    • Posts: 5952

    what’s the runtime with the 3.8 motor? i heard a 3.0 has a short runtime so i assume a 3.8 is worse?

Viewing 25 posts - 4,176 through 4,200 (of 4,827 total)