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I was thinking of fitting a small 5 odd ohm trimpot so i can limit the motor speed, so with a 2.6 – 3.0 it should be good. But proportional speed would be the best. I was working on a proportional control a while ago, using a full size tx, but ive scrapped it untill i can find out all the different components in all frequencies, so i can make a multi band proportional control.
Well you guys obviously dont know much about indoor flyers. A plane with a 5″-15″ should fly with the bcg guts installed. The whole thing would weigh about 10-15 grams, but it is fragile (impossible to break in flight, but suffers hangar rash (damage due to absent minds))
Leds don’t put out any heat z-beam.
My TOM’s Toyota Supra Race Body. Then my blue r34, then my yellow s2k
Hmmm motors are very cheap for the company to buy, so my guess is that the torpedos have a 1.0 motor and a capacitor. But if they do shoot how the heck do you retrieve the torpedos? Go for a swim?
There is lots of diagrams of the torpedos ‘firing off’ but who knows what the dodgy buggers are up to.
Cant wait to get a digi q tank+submarine…….digi q cars are dodgy (dodgy-q)
Yes it is, but its quite possible to get 20minutes out of the standard nicad, if u use a stand alone* charger.
*my car ran for 20 mins cont. when charged with electronic stand alone charger.
Cool, i am not sure if i want a 1:18 HPI or a 1:24 Mini z.
I’ve just retired my 3.0 motor, it started to stuff up more and more.
The 2.6 is great – no issues at all, and it tends to be a bit more forgiving when cornering.
I’ve yet to try the 1.6 – I’ll be interested to see where it fits in the scheme of things
my 3.5 only works 4/5 times
oh the beauty of a line lock solenoid:smiley4:
wish i could work out that one on my bit
My loctite Zexel skyline or
My AE86 Drift king Trueno
yeah min has losened up a bit now and its running fine, i probably just had to run in the gears and motor
Pandabear, nah man im talking bout the little balls of “meat
” on the BBQ meat loversGood pic’s Caine. Looking at the close up of the sub i would say there not gonna fire off i think there for dosplay.
Cool idea though.
The one and only Supra, it’s the onlt one i own but i selected it because i liked it the best. I
Next would have to be the bodies from the skyline set there cool.
Compact White & Blue Skylines, no cap, Yellow S2000 no cap, but the range on the White Skyline is shocking.
Bit NSX-R 27mhz not capped, but average range
Bit Skyline SE set 35mhz no cap, good range
Bit Fairlady Z Booster 57mhz, no cap, awesome range :smiley1:
I tried them with my 2.2, 2.6 and 3.0 and they were fine, both in the Skline LE chassis and the Fairlady Z chassis.
This might sound stupid but from looking at some of those pics of the subs, it seems that maybe what we all think are torpedos are just filled with air. This is just my theory…
*having the subs compartments filled with air would mean that the subs would sorta float. Causing a boat type effect. Meaning you can use them as a boat. But when they are filled with water they are heavier meaning more sink-age.
*The more water added the further the sub will dive but the slower it will go about it.
But once again its pretty stupid but it just sorta flew into my head.
Hey Paintwiper…
Here’s the manual… hopefully this link works for you
Holy Cow these things are fun! My son and I played “Castle” a game we made up today its a killer little game played like paintball first you need some blocks or some type of obsticals you set them up maze like with a tall flimsy “Castle” preferably a tall one with a green plastic army man on top. You place the “castle” on the far sides opposite each other. To start the game you place your tank on the backside of your “Castle” on the command go you proceed through the maze hunting your opponent .If when proceeding through the maze you are shot you must replace your tank behind your “Castle” and start over .Your opponent continues.If your tank turns over you must restart, if you run out of ammo you may proceed but your opponent is free to topple your castle and fire upon you will until you are disabled .The object of the game is to some how survive the battle and topple the others guys “Castle”and his general to the ground.75 points are awarded for “Conquering a Castle” and 25 points are awarded for disabling the opposition. You only are awarded a perfect score of 100 for completing both missions. To add complexity you may build more than one “Castle”.
If you’re intereted in seeing what the actual board looked like when I opened up the controller you can find the pictures here:
it is a mess! I wrote to ToyEast and complained, but got no response. 🙁
My bro works at ph. Ill ask him.
Yep, my 3.6 volt nimh, and 3.0 motor are waiting for you….
Theres a special tool to take the heatsink off.
Yeah all my chassises have got those cracks in them..and it @#$%& me of so much.
But it look cool with coils, plus they work too.
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