betty.k
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since i started using the atomic f.r.p. (fiber reinforced plastic) t plates i haven’t looked back. i get the hard mm ones and use the hard spring in them. they’re just as, if not more durable than cf hplates.
i got the idea for the motor cover from ph2t. i just used plastic packaging, cut and bent to shape and held in place with double sided tape. it stops metallic stuff collecting on the motor which happens a lot outdoors.
and finally, i’ve grown quite fond of the mclaren body for it’s looks and wheelbase/track. the blue one is a kyosho autoscale bod, looks pretty but breaks easily.
i gotta say, if i was buying it for a display piece i’d be dissapointed. the exhaust pipes are a little crooked and some of the decals are terrible up close. but i’m gonna smack the piss outta this one so i’m happy!
the ronald mcdonald looking one (which i call “big mac”) is an iwaver bod. it’s plenty strong, thicker plastic and one piece body/window design.
i’m driving the whole thing with my futaba 2pl tx which isn’t much of a big deal but i just bought a pretty new wheel for it so feel the bling! 😎
all in all this is a killer rig, everything it needs and nothing more. race me with it and you better get used to being lapped (just ask ph2t!:smiley2: ):8ball:
i’ve long since upgraded my iw into an mr. it’s all kyosho apart for the aftermarket stuff, the electronics are steady as a rock.
i’ve got it dialed in for my concrete/tarmac surfaces which aren’t too technical so i favour a little understeer.
i like 3deg camber on the front knuckles, the tyres would wear on the outside too much with anything less. it’s currently sporting some 2deg alloys sliding on 3racing kingpins, got some gpm 3deg’s coming.
the atomic dish rims up front are flawless, spinning true after a lot of abuse. they’re wearing 40deg kyosho tyres, i’d like to experiment a little more with front tyre choice. gandini foams ar too grippy, i was getting traction rolls in fast corners. the rubber allows a little give which stops rollovers but creates understeer.
strangely softer tyres grip less than harder ones on my surfaces.
there’s a .5deg toe in tierod there to help with the understeer.
3racing ball diff pushed with a pn racing s04, 9t pinion. this isn’t a really hot setup, batts and motor just get warm never hot. i could probably push it up to a 12 – 14t pinion if i wanted but i’m happy with the speed. it clocks 34kph on the tamiya checker and it’s pretty close to that on the ground with wads of torque to spare.
the gandini foams are the best on the rear. i’ve been experimenting with the different compounds (hard, med, soft) and they all grip brilliantly. the softer ones wear quicker but no faster than the rubber tyres would.
(i go through front tyres faster than rear foams)
kyosho oil shock just for rear end damping, no spring. the hplate gives me all the spring i need.
nelly 1.0, nuff said.
i initially had poor range and major glitching. so i added a 470uf electro cap across the power terminals on the nelly. problem solved.
and that’s my patented “boomerang” (crikey!) shock mount i made from scrap pcb. i thought it was silly having the overhead mount, it’s more prone to flex and the shock is still mounted in exactly the same place as before.
i think my design is simpler, stiffer, cheaper, therefore smarter!
dude, i’ve never heard of a 2 wire servo, something aint right! there should be 4 wires going to the pcb from the servo.
my iw01 needed the servo pot to be replaced within 3 weeks, that could be it.
dude, i ve never heard of a 2 wire servo, something aint right! there should be 4 wires going to the pcb from the servo.
my iw01 needed the servo pot to be replaced within 3 weeks, that could be it.
i have a feeling the servo is wired incorrectly. try swapping the servo motor wires around.
i have a feeling the servo is wired incorrectly. try swapping the servo motor wires around.
Quote:z-beam wrote:lake = bad
just be prepared to have to jump in to rescue if it capsizes and youll be right.
well if it’s as hot up there as it is down here you’ll be hoping it capsizes! (40 right now, 42 predicted tommorrow
)well a big fat ho ho ho to one and all!
i’ll be working right up to new years but then i’ll have 2 weeks off! i’m hoping to have a get together at templestowe sometime then
drove one of these puppies today!
it was 100% stock but it didn’t seem to matter it was fun enough as is. way better than an xmod could hope for!hi man!
definately cut to the chase and buy a kyosho. pretty much every model is good with the exception being the mr01(no servo saver, no brake, high c.o.g.). don’t get me wrong, it’s pretty good but with better options out there like the mr02 (servo saver, brake, lower center of gravity) you’re better off buying once.
you might even want to look into the mr015 (servo saver, brake) or the new ma010 (servo saver, brake, 4wd)
so if you got the bucks, get the new ma010 (drove one today, awesome!). otherwise my pick is the mr02
they’re good at extracting money from you!
like with the mini inferno, it needs oil shocks and a full set of kyosho oils is USD$54!!! before shipping
you can find more info on the nelly here: http://www.woahnelly.com/
the spider is available from the ausmicro shop.
i’d recommend a turbo (spider, nelly) then the motor. once you’ve done that you’ll realise the extra cells aren’t needed.
just to get you a little more excited, here’s some first impressions from some lucky merikans!
http://ripper7racing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4872&hl=
personally i’d start him off with a cheapy from dick smith’s or a toyshop. when it breaks you can let him pull it apart and find outwhat’s inside
i’ve found that it’s not until they’re about 8 – 10 years old that they can understand the concept of steering and throttle at the same time. most young’uns don’t even care that it’s rc, they just wanna see it go!once you go through that process with him you’ll have a good idea of where his mental development is at. and how much passion is burning within!
having said that i’d definately recommend a kyosho mini z madforce. kids love the look of them, they’re bouncy and can do wheelies!!! coooolness!
bearings in my opinion are a must no matter where you drive. and the parts most people break are the shock towers. just replace them with alloy when they eventually go.
good luck with it all, nothing beats the look on their faces when they see these toys in action!
