betty.k
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i considered both the wide and the narrow stripe, and after rigorous testing in the wind tunnel at the r.a.a.f. base at pt cook i have concluded that the wide stripe improves low speed handling and the narrow stripe is a high speed handling improver. colour is important as we all know, that’s why i decided on a blue stripe. i’m not skilled enough to handle the speed increase of a red stripe just yet…
i’m yet to test the “bi stripe” yet, but i’m onto it!:D:8ball:
practice, practice, practice!:8ball:
seems to me that the mr01 can take more jump abuse than the monster!:D:8ball:
well there’s no point leaving it on the shelf to gather dust! a busted car is a used car is a loved car!:8ball:
yes that z of ph2t’s really does fly! with a ball diff it will be perfect! smooth as silk when the pinion isn’t flying off!:D
and here’s what happens when idiots like me drive under peoples feet when they’re trying to get out of the way!:8ball:
you can contact ph2t for a set of custom springs, or use the ones from afx slot cars. just cut them in half, they should be fine:8ball:
the on off switch clips into position. take the pcb cover off, remove the motor terminal screws first. carefully lift the pcb from the rear to expose the juicy innards! just push the switch back into place so the little side clips hold it in place. that’s it, put it all back together carefully and drive it til you break something else!:D:8ball:
i’ve got a tomy afx ho slot car, and the wheelbase is the same as smp’s. and the body is 71mm. lucky for you the enertec i sent you has a 38 odd mm long wheelbase:p:8ball:
not unless you’re an electronics genius! i’ve not heard of it being done, but i’m sure it’s not impossible. but you really should save the hassle and get a 2 speed. lxx are the most available, and with a little soldering you gett 2 extra channels! but if you can find a tomy booster, i’d choose that:8ball:
mine was clean too, it don’t take much to disturb the tiny contact point inside the variable resistor.
the servo consists of the motor, some gears and a variable resistor. that’s the thing with the wires attached to it that aint the motor. pull it out, remove the little cover to expose the track and dial part. CLEAN IT!! it might look clean, but trust me, some crc, wd40 or quality oil will clean it up. if that don’t work then the vr’s buggered and needs replacing or the wires have a hidden break.
basically this occurs because the vr is sending dodgy signals to the pcb so the motor thrashes around until it finds it’s “selected position”.:8ball:
i’m not fussed about the brand, just so long as it’s not total rubbish. from what i can gather, the o plates offer more movement than an h plate. and after experimenting with various designs on the suspension bits i’ve concluded that an o plate is probably what i’m after. i want something that allows up/down flex like a stock kyosho plastic h plate, and good roll flex so that the shocks are doing most of the suspension work, not the h plate. and i want it to be carbon fibre for longevity. i’ve found the stiff carbon fibre ones good on nice even surfaces, but out on the road if i was to scale it up it’s the equivalent of driving on cobble stones. so sensitive suspension is important to me for handling and keeping all 4 tyres on the ground.:8ball:
well there’s plenty of time to plan, and plenty of affordable transport options. i wouldn’t be so quick to say no.:8ball:
sounds good to me! i been thinking of reviving my porn career for a while now….:D:8ball:
it’s all true, the gears are slightly different between iw and kyosho. the iw servo box fits snugly in a kyosho chassis, a couple of screw holes don’t match perfectly but not enough to be a problem. there’s slightly more play with a kyosho tie rod installed.
basically it’s the same deal as tomy vs lxx bits. if you’re prepared to do a little tinkering then an lxx (iw) can be a great car. but if you want something that’s first class outta the box, then you gotta go tomy (kyosho)
i’m happy to tinker, i do most of my learning by encountering problems with cheap crap and as a result my electronic knowledge and skill have increased tenfold over the last 10 months or so:8ball:clear plastic is genarally more brittle than black, but i needed a part and it looked cool! if i stick a blue led in it, it will be a 1:28 super perfection!!:D i’m yet to go head to head with a real z, but it’s equally as fast as ph2t’s mad force, just don’t take off the line as quick due to the differences in traction and torque.
i’m not too fussed if it’s not as good as a real z, i knew iwaver was a cheap clone. all i want is for it to impress me! and it does!:8ball:ph2t’s yet to have a good look at the iw pcb, but after a quick once over he’s found out that the drive fets are “complimentary pkg” fets. this means that there’s an n chan and p chan fet in one package. it should be easy to replace the stock fets with better ones, we’ll keep you updated:8ball:
hmmm, hang on to it i say. i know that pork hunt has a rx/servo from an old lxx 01. i’m sure you could just swap servo’s. and if not, my plan with the iw was to have a cheap “foot in the door”. i was pretty aware that the quality won’t be as good as kyosho, so i planned on replacing broken or worn parts with quality replacements. i’m not phased if it’s not as good as kyosho, just so long as it’s fun for me:8ball:
what’s the problem with the i waver td? mine rocks, even without the upgrades, i’d buy another in a flash:8ball:
i noticed nismo speed is trying to get something running in tassie, so we could have an east coast champeenship!!:8ball:
croikey!!! you’re on too!:8ball:
apparently kyosho servo gears are not compatible with i waver servos. so i think if you wanna replace any part of the iwaver servo you’re gonna hafta buy the whole unit.:8ball:
bring it on ya phat tyred woosy!:8ball:
word to the bird! i’ll get some pics as soon as i can. i’m painting the porche body for fun so hopefully that will be done by the time i get snapping. i rilly should buy a digi cam instead of waiting to borrow someone else’s!
as for the servo madness, turns out the vr was a little dirty or making a poor contact. a little oil solved my dilemma, if i had some crc i woulda used that. steady as a rock now!:D:8ball:Quote:damn man, what u driving it into walls?funny you should say that……:dead:
had a spectacular crash the other day! fullspeed into a chair! wound up breaking the steering bulkhead and the h plate snapped clean off! but i’ve replaced all the busted bits and now that the steering is steady again it’s a killer! there’s barely any i waver left on it, ph2t was correct with his prediction that soon the only stock part will be the rx:smiley2: so far i’ve installed:cambered knuckles
bb’s
kyosho clear chassis and front end
nimh batts
x speed motor
delrin 9t pinion
real good diff (i forget what brand…. jamie?)
cf h plate
yeah racing crystals
pretty purple wheelnutsso i dunno whether to call it an i z or a wanna z! some may scoff at the fact that i’ve bought a lotta kyosho and aftermarket stuff to get it like this, but it was fun outta the box anyway and i got my foot in the door for only $25usd! so jam it up yer tailpipe:8ball:
eeeyup!:approve: i hads me a breakthrough! i tried the paper, caps across the terminals, replaced the wires. but the problem was in the variable resistor in the servo. it musta got a little dirty cos after a little bit of teflon oil on the contact she’s steady as a rock again!:smiley16: i only used the oil as i don’t have any crc or wd40 around (sacriledge!!!!) if it stuffs up again i’ll use crc to flush it out. big thank you to ken for his invaluable help!:smiley2::8ball:
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