Geo-Z
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
To those with the H2 body:
Are the wheels wider than the Pajero Evo/H1/Landcruiser? and if they are, do they handle better? I’ve always suspected the wheel width is a little on the narrow side.
Honestly, I think a good US Military-style hummer, complete with camo paintjob and .50 CAL on the roof would be sweet 🙂
Porsche Cayenne Turbo, where are you? Kyosho made a few a while back……
On another note, take a look at this ULTIMATE overland crawling course. It has 3 levels and a nice snowy touch –
http://www.minizz.com/article288.html
Didn’t know it was so popular in spain……..
Dayem, I thought I was gunna b the only one with an overland (this was way back when when they were just released ;)) looks like my 15 minutes of privaledge within AUSMICRO sydney are UP.
Oh, and I’d recommend any other body bsides the pajero streets and EVOS cuz they are quite high and the chassis-setting is tooshort…. . They flip over during high-speed turns.
I’ve found the best results with H2,bmwx5shells (longer)and perhaps the Cayenne (good luck finding it), although they all display somewhat sluggish steering due to the lack of Ball diffs.
From my experience the shock stays break rathar easily if u like doing mad ramps just make surethey’re not too steep. (The alloyshock staysaretoo heavy)
IMO the lowdown shocks are quite useless in my opinion, they almost rob the car of it’s suspension altogether!
another thing: DO NOT BUY THE CLEAR CHASSIS yes u heard me. IT’s simply not worth the effort or cost. For a start, there are almost 2X the amount of screws (compared to an MR02), and the stock ones are crappy and strip too easily. The clear chassis itself is made of more brittle plastic IMO and screwing screws in is like breaking ur wrist. I’ve changed chassis bfore on MR01’s and 2’s, but the overland was like doing jail time.
The ball screws are also screwed in too tightly and i destroyed most of mine (cuz i wanted to change thechassis to clear….boy)when I tried to unscrew them. Be prepared to buy the better quality stainless ones if u plan to unscrew them.
The main gear, situated between the diff gear and pinion, also takes a beating and breaks.I use the delrin-alloy-enforced one from GPM but it’s costly.OH and did i mention the shock stays ?:)
BTW if u are running anx-speed on it, i recommend you don’tramit intotoo much dense dirt or steep hills……thefets are moreeasily burnt out than other Z’s, cuz of our immediatetendency to display it’s torquey side……I upgraded mine to a pair of 4562’s….and usea stock pinion of 10 if ur still on stock fets…..
Have fun with ur overlands! Peace out. :)Jay-Z ur right: it’s a damn pity it’s not 4WD
azza2000…..i also have a gpm v2 external turbo, and it’s an acceptable torque booster – for motors in the 40t range. It is best to NOT yoke it to any motor hotter than 40turns…..I know for a fact that it really struggles (slower speed/torque, LOTS of resistance and power-sucking heat) when trying to run a PNSO3. In short, I’d not pair it with the following motors: PNSO2 PNSO3 PNSO4, Xspeed PRO (iwaver), any ATOMIC AR-18 variant (T1 T2 or Z2), NML’s motors (DEFINITE no-no), or a Plasma Dash variant (this will cook ur V2 turbo in quite a short while).
A safer Turbo for faster motors are the TWIN TURBO ones from GPM And TLP respectively. They allow more amp draw than the V2….but are also heavier.
Or better yet, go internal and swap the iwaver fets from a 2×3 stack of 4562 fets.
Heck, seeing as we’re on 2 external turbo’s, get the absolute best- ph2t’s whoanellys.
empirebayjmt…..99 bucks is a ripoff. Then again, hobbyco in the city used to sell a porshe 911 palm runner for 89.95…..buying z stuff in sydney is the pits, like dgs said, u can probably buy an official readyset or iwaver for around that amount.
True. But me oldies actually think my mini-z is worth less than twenty bucks. A grown man like me spending hours on a kmart cheapo that can reach speeds of 50kmph? To them, it is still a slightly evolved pullback car. My sis thinks her digital alarm clock has more complex electronics.
Then again, i’m dealing with ppl who didn’t know where the ‘on’ switch was on my pc.
I am in the process of finding the larger resistors for the ‘tite turn’ mod (the type u solder onto the pot’s 2 wires)…. i hope this improves the steering radius. Oh yeah, just tried the centering pot fix, that helped a bit….turn radius is still quite large…..
Neway…..any miniature car that runs via transmitter is always a ‘toy’ to the untutored eye of the ignorant layman (i:e girls in general and my family ;)) lol they still think my mini-z is a kmart cheapo.
Seatbelt, the overlands should all be 149 bucks, I was there late last year when they just lowered the price on all mini-zs…..perhaps you just saw an older price tag. Hobbyco has priced all mini-z stock, both mr01 beetles and overlands to clear, they shouldn’t be over 150 bucks methinks.
BTW hobbyco used to sell overlands at exhorbitant prices during 2003-early 2004…..well in the 299.99+ range…….
If you asked the guys behind the rc counter, they are not always the best informed, and they change almost every 3 months……IMO i’d refrain from asking about mini-z advice, it is shunned there.
oh yes, do get the overland if you plan on racing on carpet, and if you do, order a few extra shock stays, as these break easily. Happy racing.
dgs…..u’ve got a tc3? whoa…..what transmitter do u use with it?
NML has seemingly finalized his latest design – the SSv3. Supposedly, there is no other motor faster than it (?). Some dude at mini-zracer.com claimed that he saw a drag race between nml’s ssv3 pro-z and another person’s buffed up mr02 with PNSO4…..v3 led the way. I await the final verdict; many americans swear by this guy.
perhaps this motor will wrestle the plasma dash from its mightly throne?
Seatbelt…..the PCB, from what i’ve heard, is slightly different. There are some complaints from IW02 and IW04 owners of some erratic servo problems….wish i could tell you more on that, but i don’t personally have an iwaver. I do, however, have an MR02 and the servo is just fine.
The plastic chassis, however, seem to be more brittle in iwavers, so it probably couldn’t withstand repeated head-on collisions without cracking. Again, i speak from what i’ve heard….
Hey guys!
Just a little note from ur recently sabbatical ausmicro sydney member….i’m once again overseas, my sis is getting married, so been busy lately…..haven’t seen y’all for a while but i’ll be back in mid jan. Hows the the plasma dash dgs? Got nething newer that i’ve missed out? Sorry haven’t been there to help with the steering issues petewah, i’ll be sure to look into it when i get bak next yr; talldude, JAY-Z, miniking, roedoner, mocky, kevsta….hope everything’s been ok. Have a merry xmas and a happy new year. Damn, everytime Aaron or someone from outta town comes over, i ain’t there 🙁
On the plus side, things are quite cheap in HK and Taiwan….they are mad on Z’s here. The awesome MR02 M3’s and mclarens gt’s are here in abundance, as are mod motors and fets galore. Oh yes, I got a battery mod done on my overland, its now capable of being yoked to a 7.2V Li-on batt. Coupled with a 35T motor, the thing is stupidly fast! Now i know why those with lithium mods are so pleased with the speed increase.
i am also dangerously close to being sucked in by micro RC helicopters….they are cheap here, the 46cm ESKY Honeybee is only $200 au…..yow…..
KFC gravy is indeed made from the same lard-bricks they use in processing the chicken. I remember a couple on the news who once killed their own baby bcuz they fed him kfc potato and gravy for weeks! the poor kid ended up being poisoned with every undesirable preservative in the book, along with a seriously screwed up kidney upon post mortem.
As for maccas, i prefer bk or oportos. The fries aren’t bad tho. Watchout for toilets filled with ice. they use it for…..hmm…….
It’s a pity we don’t have Jack in the Box. That golf-headed mascot is the funniest thing.
Yah josh, a nice mini-tank would be cool 🙂 me want one. As Roe doner points out, it may be an issue with the government…..i remember when my bbgun was taken off me….lol….it even had bright orange bits but no, apparently they didn’t trust me to somehow either pawn it off to crims or become a holdup robber meself. All this when my friend, a caucasian dude, managed to take in 2 gas powered Luger replicas along with a friggin samurai sword BY HAND thru the damn airport. Of course the asian-looking dude is the one who smuggles and is a bigger threat…man oh man……
j/k 🙂dgs, do plasma dash armatures have easily charred comms? Or do they wear thru brushes more easily? My motor states that it must only be used in 10 minute races (max) with an aftermath cooldown period of 15mins! Dunno about the plasma, but i remember they can all get quite hot…..
When I race with HO scale slotcars (Aurora AFX, Tyco, Lifelike, Marchon track), the tiny armatures in those cars needed a cooldown period of 10 mins between continuous 15 min intervals….so maybe a little cooldown could help in prolonging the life of electric motors?
From what i’ve seen, dgs’s rebuilt plasma was quite fast, with top end speed being even faster than my atomic/PN mod motors. Dunno about kevsta’s one tho 😉
Alfonso,
I have the mini-z F1 too (both Panasonic and williams shells) and unless you may be willing to cut a hole in ur body shell, I’d suggest maybe a 2 X 2 4562 FET upgrade. Usually, this is enough to run most mod motors. It’s not as resistance- low as a Nelly methinks, but it looks a bit neater.
If there is enough space, (and long enough wires) perhaps the nelly could protrude from the rear of the shell, though i’ve never tried it….then the body needn’t be butchered methinks.
OMG! That is one PHAT ROXORS track!!!!!:shock:
dgs i gotta hand it to ya mate, it is neat as meat. I’ve been busy the past few weeks (doh, the only time i could’ve come was that time i came too late), as I’ve been antsy to give talldude his diff and iwavers back. Sorry talldude! I”ll be there next month, as this weekend there’s Animania (anime/japanese pop culture exhibit) in town hall. I’ll be taking photos of all the overweight, middle-aged men dressed as Sailor Moon. To the internet! Bwahahah.
Roe mate,
The dc didn’t have an HD…..games were pirated by burning ROMS off warez sites that were streamed from DC’s with modded cables. I have a few, but most of the good games are originals….you’d need a boot disk to play the copies.
HOTD was indeed released for the DC in 2000 i have it and 2 lightguns….mind you, only the second game saw release.
cheers.
Talldude, Sega rally was ace. The peugeout handled like a dream, the tracks were slippery, all the components were in the right place. Good news: Sega’s AM2 division are working on Sega Rally Championship 2005, to be released on PS2 next year, news on http://www.magicbox.com
V8 supercars 2 is pretty nice, i was surprised at the quality of the visuals! Juiced is supposed to be even better but I liken taht to a more NFS type game.
zbeam I remember micro machines it was an excellent party game, I only played the PS1 version i think there was a SNES one too???
Aaron I do indeed have a DC, one of the first Japanese ones. It has over 60 imported games on it, all the shmup favs, 2d fighting ones and sega’s own in house ones (sonic, shenmue, rez, cosmic smash, u know). I wouldn’t part with it for the world, to me, it is worth a lot more than my modded xbox. Bring on Outrun 2!
Talldude, Sega rally was ace. The peugeout handled like a dream, the tracks were slippery, all the components were in the right place. Good news: Sega’s AM2 division are working on Sega Rally Championship 2005, to be released on PS2 next year, news on http://www.magicbox.com
V8 supercars 2 is pretty nice, i was surprised at the quality of the visuals! Juiced is supposed to be even better but I liken taht to a more NFS type game.
zbeam I remember micro machines it was an excellent party game, I only played the PS1 version i think there was a SNES one too???
Aaron I do indeed have a DC, one of the first Japanese ones. It has over 60 imported games on it, all the shmup favs, 2d fighting ones and sega’s own in house ones (sonic, shenmue, rez, cosmic smash, u know). I wouldn’t part with it for the world, to me, it is worth a lot more than my modded xbox. Bring on Outrun 2!
ph2t,
i haven’t ‘used’ just the can, but i have the entire combo (Atomic AR18 Torque-i motor). It is very much like the plasma dash….if you plan to order these, the heat dissapation is good, but there are too many holes onnit, may help if running in cleaner areas…oh, and the brushes are quite specialized, they use the type that clip to adjacent sides, may help to buy 3 extra pairs of ’em for backup.
Mrbishi,
I have some experience with commercial mod motors. I don’t have the ones on minizworkshop, but i DO have ones from PN, Atomic (egrracing), M’z. The other ones are less well known and thus should be avoided (e:g topcad, gpm motors, although they make GREAT alloy parts, their motors are the achilles heel and never really caught on).
If you are only into faster STOCK motors that can be used on ur stock Z without turbo/fet upgrade, I’d say stick with the Kyosho Xspeed V. OR you can just slap on a turbo or FET upgrade and THAT will give ur stock motor/xspeed wayyy more torque (up the pinion!). I’ve heard twisted tales of other non-kyosho stock motors burning the fets out. There are some who had better luck tho – I’d say the M’z stock motor (i have this, already a teeny weeny bit faster than xspeed) is a good bet. Or the PN speedy practice motor. Beware the latter – it is a known fet-frying culprit.
If your into extreme speed, then the PN RACING series of machine wounds are alright, but generally not fast enough. the PN SO1 and SO2 (35T w/ NEO’s) are capable of 40+kmph, while the SO3 is basically the SO2 in a BB can. EGRRACING and their ATOMIC series of motors are MUCH faster, especially the newer Torque-1 (30T, Neos, 39800 RPM) series. They go from zero to almost max speed quite fast, and NEED a good FET setup. Beware tho; atomic motors are the second most expensive ones, after NML’s SSV2. I’m saving up for a Torque-2 ATOMIC motor, which claims to be over 40000RPM! YOW 😉
DGS’s plasma is way cheaper, but as he said, somethings should be changed before it can used with a Z. Still, the end cost is way cheaper than most FET/turbo motors. From what i’ve seen his plasma has the fastest top speed and is also much quieter than most mod motors.
AS with all motors, it helps to keep the things clean and make sure the drivetrain is as friction-free as possible. Hope this has helped, happy racing 🙂
I thought the flatter MR02 design corrected most handling/COG flaws with the MR01? Perhaps they wanted to make longer bodies in the RAcer series. The prototype chassis displayed above looks a tad longer than the longest settings on MR01 and 2’s.
dgs did u see the union jack skyline? me want.
actually, it looks like spare parts will be a freebie for previous mini-z owners….just need the right MR01 and MR02 parts and u may not need to buy upgrades (?).
talldude, i’m hoping the exact same thing. otherwise, this may be the strangest devolution(?) kyosho have made!
The inside track sounds tiptop dgs! I think the melbourne guys also showed a pic of an indoor small track, barely the size of a small room, and it looked pretty tight. Time to break out the stock motor again, woo. 😉
actually, the guys in kawada hobbies (one of the places i race in taiwan) say that GP has not got enough punch – they use either sanyo or maliba (a hobbyist brand of batteries, available in both aaa and aa). IMO i don’t see much difference, i have both brands.
Yo Jay-Z long time no see too! i hope everything’s ok, sorry to hear about ur wheels!
Mrbishi, be prepared to order a few more sets of servo gears in advance….even the alloy ones tend to break sometimes, especially on an MR01 cos they have no servo saver.
Be ready to bust ur hard earned bucks on another MR01…followed by an MR02…followed by an F1….followed by a Monster or Overland….followed by a FET upgrade…followed by a….
ack. I’m already living off my fingernails. 😉
-
AuthorPosts
