jamiekulhanek
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Yep, TOMY is Japanese, but BCG’s are made in china…
Translation anyone?? 😀
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA RANG AN ELECTRICIAN HAHAHAHAHAA oh that made my day!!!:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
I’m willing to bet it’s the FETs replace it with a Whoa Nelly turbo now!
Quote:i managed to boil water on the bbq and i powered my little b&w telly with 2 stick packs!:DNo doubt about you…
The Mr Resourceful Award goes to……:D
Yeah looks sweet IMO, looks like a Top Secret (japanese tuning company) Widebody Kit!
That putty is smooth as, looks very symmetrical too!! Thumbs up man!
Don’t take Z-Beam’s comments to heart, everybody has their own opinion.
Holy shit….
They are crazy good drivers, if I made it around the first corner i’d be proud of myself :D.
I noticed one of the cars that flipped was running a stock diff…blackeye:
Also loved the george bush bit at the end…
BB’s can be fitted to plasma dash’s, but it’s tricky and theres lots of little tricks you need to get it right.
The plasma dash with neos and BB’s was a favourite of mine, massive torque on 6 cells even with huge pinions! (13t)
One more thing, dave, what are “neo brushes?” :smiley2:
Good point bk!
Nice but howcome everything on the roof is so clean?
Well they are basically the same thing chassis wise, just with wider track etc for a monster truck…
Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 28 January 2005 18:29:43
Dan, I can look at it for ya…..
I’m only about 3km away…
My cat is terrified of bits, especially biff’d dual cells 😀
If you drive at a constant speed (try it slowly) the car should go straight, but as soon as you nail it it will veer off to one side…
A ball diff fixes this problem.
kevsta if it takes 40 mins to charge an 1100 pack at 0.5, something is seriously wrong, either the batteries are stuffed and only partially charging or something else is…at 0.5A it should take closer to 1 1/2 hours…
And a 3300 pack at 1.5A…should take 2 1/2 hours….something is weird…
I charge my AAA’s at around 3.5A in a plastic bag dunked in a cup of water to keep temps down and prevent false peaking…
My Sub C packs…4-8 amps, depending on how impatient I am feeling…
hahaha yeah ’tis a pitty the biff is gone…
leave it as is, looks ghetto, flick some brown paint on it to simulate med!
The stock diff is the problem, there is no way to rectify it without locking it up.
A ball diff will solve this and generally make the car much easier to drive hard!
And if the motor runs backwards, just switch the terminal wires around!
That’s the MR0-1.5 chassis, basically it’s an MR02 with MR01 battery placement and rear motor pod, feel free to give me a dozen lashes if i’m wrong :p.
I agree with ya Priest,
Nothing irritates me more than going into an LHS and talking to some knobhead that has no interest or experience in the hobby (salesman/woman), then he/she quotes absurd prices…I have almost completely given up on my LHS’s.
Some say support your LHS and it will support you…bugger off, I don’t call extortion ‘support’!:angry:
I have no problem with buying from an LHS if the price is reasonable, and they know their stuff, therefore, I’m more than happy to support AusMicro.com shop! :approve:
Quote:team dirty indeed! check out the sponsor stickers they have used, classic! not to mention the custom body protector:shock:
hehe thats funny shit!
lol!!
Nice work, but that spare wheel ain’t gonna be much use :smiley2:
I say upgrade the tyres and diff will solve the problem…
merc you gotta learn a bit more about the scale system…
to convert weight and power from a 1/28 scale you have to cube 28!
multiply the weight/power of a mini Z by approximately 21,952…
so say a mini Z weighs 180g RTR, scale that up to 1:1 and you get 3,951kg!
The stock motor pumps out around 3 watts of power…1:1= 65.85kw.
Lesson here is you can’t really scale physics…
Also in a 1:1, if it has an open wheeler diff, it can be very unpredictable, an LSD diff helps a lot…
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