jamiekulhanek
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That is almost Identical to the charger im about to start making for bigger R/C, except im using 2 LM 350’s.
McDrool….
McDrool….
Steering spring is vital for the steering to work..
Steering spring is vital for the steering to work..
For the price of these babies you may aswell replace the whole motor rather than buy brushes.
For the price of these babies you may aswell replace the whole motor rather than buy brushes.
In the model aircraft world things are slightly different….
I have a boat, its still in kit form and i cbf building it.
Im going to dreamworld on thursday or friday so i’ll have a look then.
$189, where you could get one……hmmm try hobby stores i guess.
Okay where is the cripple cap then? I WISSSSSSHHHH i could find a schematic for the Rx PCB.
Okay where is the cripple cap then? I WISSSSSSHHHH i could find a schematic for the Rx PCB.
Quote:Quote:Only 35 watts?? I think some 540’s have a bit more power than that…. closer to 100 watts.Ahh… talking the “standard” Mabuchi RS540SH here… 🙂
Above was only ruff-as-gutz calc, based upon equivalent
Johnson 05 is rated at “0.05 horsepower” (thus the name)
and 1hp = ~700W…? (can’t remember exact figs).Anyway, this is what the factory says:
RS-540SH/SF (model 5045)
OPERATING RANGE 4.5 – 12.0
NOMINAL (COMMUTATOR POSITION) 12(CCW+)
NO LOAD Speed/Current 17500rpm 0.95A
AT MAX EF 15080rpm 5.93A Torque 31.8N/m 324g/cm 50.1W
STALL 230N/m 2345g/cm 37.0ASo yeah, it does 50.1W if run on 12V… :p
Assuming linear power/V relationship, if we run it at
7.2V that should give us 7.2/12 X 50.1W = 36W.Wahey, whaddya know… :smiley2:
I have done so much calculating wattage to horsepower etc. over the years that iv’e got the figures firmly lodged in my head.
746 Watts = 1 horsepower
1.341 Horsepower = 1 Kw (1000 watts)
Remember boys, a motor at maximum power is only around 50% efficient, that is, half the power is waste in heat, friction and noise before it gets to the pinion.
I always thought that the johnson 0.05 was meant to be equivalent to a 0.05 Glow Plug motor…..well thats the theory with “Astro” motors.
a current regulator with a timer should work great.
The fastest motor i own is a TOMY lucifer rotor 3.0……..
The joy of the first drive justifies the $220+ price tag (to me it does anyway :))
A pair of 7000MCD white leds is VERY bright, you can see 5+ metres in front of the car. SMD LEDs are too small and not bright enough. If you use the car battery, the headlights will dim significantly when you acclelerate.
t00l you don’t need 12×2 fets, 6×2 is more than enough for a plasma dash.
VR-4 i don’t expect any australians will be interested in buying.
Hey?? So it isn’t a current regulator?? Just a voltage regulator??
Hey?? So it isn’t a current regulator?? Just a voltage regulator??
First thing to consider: Track surface…..
Second thing to consider Size/Layout/Corner Radius.
Third thing to consider: Scenery:p A replica track (Mount Panorama :)) would be nice. Bridges (dont make the bridge too sloped, or you’ll hit the car’s front bar).Good Luck.
Quote:after months and months of wondering if i wanted to go larger than a bit char-g, i finally sipped into my pockets and dished out some large wad of cash for a sleek red ferrari F40 mini-z.These are bloody terrific…! now i know what you guys are on about.. i can seriously see myself at ausmicro mini-z gatherings.
I decided to perform sacrilege and i opened my untouched Initial D Redsuns Palm runner and stole the shell for the mini-z..
ok.. i cant type no more.. have to play more.
Oh yes, i remember the day i got my majestic mini Z too, absolutely buckets of fun, now, 8 months later its had a $500 facelift. Full blown racer.
Quote:I too use a custom LM317 charger. I use a pot to control the rate of charge so I can do a standard quick charge like the controller or do a 5mA 12-16hr trickle charge. I am a tight ass so an intelli peak charger or similar was out of the question. For $1.80 for the LM317 plus a couple more bucks for the other components I have a charger that is pretty much indestructable (chip has thermal cut off). Get yourself a multimeter so you can check which positions on the pot are what rates.With NiMH batts you should NOT fully discharge them as you should with NiCad batts. It is possible to over discharge a NiMH which does some serious damage. To stop fully discharging the NiMH batt, you need to take it out of the car or put in a switch. The NiMH batts have no major memory effects so you can half charge or fully charge with no side effects. NiCad’s on the other hand do have memory effects, ie if you do a full charge you should only fully charge it from here on, likewise if you do a partial charge you should do the same from now on. You can mix you charge rates around but the performance will change quite a bit.
With the smaller batteries, the longer more gentle (low mA) charges are better in the long run. I don’t like to do a full charge in less than an hour, but as long as the battery doesn’t get hot you can charge it faster.
If you think you batt is stuffed try putting it in the freezer for 24hrs then try it again. May fix your problem. (This works on Mobile phone batts too).
Dave,
I am in the process of making a charger with 4 independently operated bays (for different batt sizes). Will keep you posted.
Cheers
Using a pot ain’t a great idea, you can only flow 1/4 watt through them. A 5 watt ceramic resistor should work great.
Huh? you haven’t ever used a 1.0/1.6/2.2/2.6 with the stock battery?
The circuit….hmmmm i got it out of my “National Semiconductor Data Book”, just trying to think where i could find it….ah! found it!
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