micro_Amps
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Yeah, I’m not sure about the figures quoted on the 3.0 They are crap on single cell cars but are monsters in dual cell or fet modded cars.
I have been watching that thread since the start and it has been interesting, unfortunately he has only done half the job, although he has done a good job given his resources.
No-load current and locked rotor current dont tell you the whole story. Electric motors need to be tested dynamically, not just statically.
To do it properly you need a micro motor dyno. They do exist for 1/10 scale electric, just a little large for our cars though.
I have some drawings and formulas for a micro motor dyno, but I doubt that it will ever eventuate into more than pages in a book of ideas.
:)uAZ beam, my suggestion of the 40c being 57mhz was a guess, perhaps its a 40 or 49mhz that you dont have on the Tomy 4B. I have some of those cars coming so I’ll check them out when they arrive.
:)uALegal? who knows.Misrepresentation? probably.
Keep in mind they are cheap clones, they have improved the chassis on the supers anyway so thats something.
Ok, so lets start a list from cars tested…27A is controlled by..?
27B is controlled by..?
27C is controlled by..?40A is controlled by..35Mhz
40B is controlled by..49Mhz
40C is controlled by..?I’ll add to this as people post results.
:)uA
Thi applies only to the LXX super cars…
Re having 2 cars on 40Mhz, what I am saying is that THEY ARE NOT BOTH ON 40Mhz. The 40A I have here runs perfectly on 35Mhz, I think it is a 35Mhz car.
I think that the 27a,b,c and 40a,b,c frequencies labelling is not correct and (just a hunch) but I think that the frequencies go something like this….
27A = 27Mhz
27B = 35Mhz
27C = 45mhz (or 40Mhz ?)
and
40A = 35Mhz
40B = 45Mhz
40C = 57Mhz
Or something along those lines.
Because in the first generation of Lxx booster cars they did have all 6 frequencies (27,35,40,45,49,57) I think they have just used these and label them (market them) as 27ABD and 40ABC because Tomy do. (Tomy’s cars ARE actually variations on 27MHZ and 40MHZ)
Give it a try, get your LXX super car, charge it up and try and control it with a tomy booster controller (a 4B if you have one). My feeling is that it will control it, unless you are using a 40 or 49Mhz cars that are not on the 4B controller.
Just a hunch, but i’d like to know if I’m right.
:)uAFair enuff, sounds good, I remember now you are a big fan of the R32 shell.
Be sure to post pics.
:)uAWhat shell is going on that Ph2t?
:)uAHappy to help Ph2t, 😀
:)uAGood stuff…
Keep the ideas coming, they are all good, and they are the kind of things we are wanting to gather together.This is just a demo calculation for a set of 12:1 gears.
Motor pinion gear 6 teeth
Large cog on idler gear 18 teeth
So, initial gear reduction ratio = 18/6 = 3.00Small cog on idler 6 teeth
Large cog on rear axel 24 teeth
Secondary gear reduction ratio = 24/6 = 4.00Multiply the two reductions together to get the final reduction through the drive,
3 x 4 = 12.
So the reduction is 12:1
This means that the motor will have to turn 12 times to turn the rear axel once,
or as a ratio (12 turns:1turn) 12:1
I used the 12:1 axel as an example because it is the easiest, the others are calculated the same way but the numbers wont be whole numbers.
So there you go.
:)uAEdited by – micro_Amps on 03 January 2004 17:53:49
Just look and learn my son, look and learn.
And dont say I never teach you anything :smiley2::)uA
Just to make it easier…
When soldering fine enamelled wire, dont scrape the enamel, you just end up breaking the wire.
Here’s how to do it.
Put a blob of solder on the end of the iron.
Push the new (unstripped) enamelled wire into the blob. It will resist going into the molten solder. As you do this ad some more solder to the blob.
What you will find is that the fresh solder contains fresh flux, which is acidic, and this will eat away the enamel and tin the wire.
After about 2 or 3 seconds the wire will be clean and tinned and you can trim it and solder it on to where ever you want.
Its easy once you get the knack, easier than stripping and tinning a standard piece of wire.
Goodluck with it.
:)uAJust to clarify, the 2 black ones go to ‘positive’, one of the others goes to L, and the remaining one goes to R.
If the steering is opposite after you connect them then reverse the L and R wires.
Goodluck
:)uAOf course there is a difference with the different gears.
The higher the gearing, the higher the top speed, but you are sacrificing torque, and therefore acceleration, for the top speed.
The only way to get the high top speeds is to use a dual cell, or a fet modded car and some of the Bit (or KITT) racer gears.
The ratios for these are…
4.57:1 (blue) rocket fast on a BCG, but the slower of the Bit racer gears
3.95:1 (red) higher again
3.43:1 (green) absolutely super fast, you need a dual cell AND fet mods to push these gears, but your car will fly. I have clocked speeds up around 28Km/h using this combination. Very hard to control, and you need to slow down before turning, but hey its all good fun.
:)uAHey Ph2t, you could sell that mower you got for Christmas.:p
Just joking mate.:smiley2:
uAI am not so sure about those frequencies on the Super Perfections.
I have a 40A here and it is controlled by a 35Mhz controller, and there doesnt look to be any difference in the circuit boards either, all standard Lxx.
I’d like to see a full test of the Lxx SP freqs, I think you will find they are just the standard freqs we have been working with.
Hachi-Ryoku, its not really possible to do the type of receiver circuit that the Lxx use (a super regenerative) in as close freqs as 0.125Mhz, they just arent that sensitive. They would need an Rx crystal for that, and they havent got them.Ph2t, the Lxx cars seem to run better because they are using the D9D/B9D transistor pair, the late version Tomy cars are using the KEY/KIY transistor pair which are slightly higher resistance. They did originally use the 9D pairs in their early cars and booster machines but changed to the KY sets, must have been cheaper for them I suppose.
The Super BCGs are again using the 9Ds thats why they go a bit better than the series 1 bcgs.
:)uAStrangely enough, the server was still logging visits and usernames, even though no content was coming up on the screen.
Go figure.
:)uAYes, you need to be careful with those, they work ok but are too strong for the thin plastic that they clip through.
If you bend them a bit before using them, they work ok.
:)uAAlso a fine fuse wire wrapped around the plastic, just far out enough to miss the hole but not interfere with the mounting of the body shell, works well too.
:)uAOn a 56K dial up connection that would take around 1.5 to 2 hours to download.
*snore*
:)uAA higher value (uF) wont make any difference. The 100uF cap is a minimum capacity to make the DC-DC converter work correctly, increasing the size will make for a slightly smoother DC output but no performance improvement in any way.
One thing that can be done is (as Ph2t stated) is to go to a 6.3V electrolytic which is slightly smaller ‘can’ size. The data sheet on the 3.3v DC-DC converter says that the voltage rating on the capacitor must be 3 times the output voltage (to protect the cap at startup), but I have many clones that have gone for the smaller (cheaper) option of a 6.3v capacitor and they work fine. So I would have no problem changing to this smaller capacitor. As I said before a standard electrolytic with the legs extended can be put somewhere less obtrusive than under the pcb.
My last dual cell that I did I removed and resoldered the capacitor and the tuning coil, relocating both onto the top of the pcb. The underneith of the pcb was then almost flat to allow the cells to fit neatly in there, and the pcb didnt have to be flipped.
:)uALooking good Ph2t, taking out the ‘rear’ wall of the chassis tub is always the way to go. You have heaps more room than usual because you dont need the rear wheel cutouts in the back of the chassis.
The smt cap will be the same can size and might even be more hassle because of the shorter legs. You might want to consider using a new ‘standard’ cap and extending the legs so you can put the cap into a corner somewhere. I have even mounted them on top of the heatsink to get it out of the way.
Just a thought.
:)uANot to mention throwing a few small pebbles under the bra so they same rub holes in the paint all the way thru to the metal. Then you dont discover them until you take the bra off 4 weeks later.
Also to be realistic, the bra would have to ‘buzz’ at high speed as the wind gets under the edges and lifts them.
What a great invention.
:)uAEdited by – micro_Amps on 27 December 2003 08:51:01
Hehehe, yeah, I know….
Hey Hey, four gold stars
Yep, I got your PM, (no problem there)
There MUST be a short on the pcb somewhere.:)uA
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