oldtamiyaphile

[oldtamiyaphile]

I commend your efforts, but it’s time to buy an Overland I think.

[oldtamiyaphile]

Meh, Victor had an onboard data logger in the mid 90’s…

The air unit can measure altitude, no more guessing how high you jumped 😀

Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 09 March 2004 19:49:29

[oldtamiyaphile]

Not really a Bit since the only bit part was a servo driven steering system. Full propo, lots of articulation, Epoch motor that could go all day long. About as fast as an X-Speed Mini-Z
😯

I needed some parts for another project so I stripped this one, but I may re-build it having seen various videos 😀

[oldtamiyaphile]

Not really a Bit since the only bit part was a servo driven steering system. Full propo, lots of articulation, Epoch motor that could go all day long. About as fast as an X-Speed Mini-Z
😯

I needed some parts for another project so I stripped this one, but I may re-build it having seen various videos 😀

[oldtamiyaphile]

I always find it interesting when toy makers make models of cars sponsored by other toy makers, like Tamiya doing a Kyosho sponsored Skyline (or was it the other way around?):shock:

I’m going to spend my $800 on this instead (for Micro-Z Land of course):

[oldtamiyaphile]

$800? A well used Mountaineer chassis of course. I’m hoping Tamiya release it again soon, it’s been ten (or 15?) years 😛

[oldtamiyaphile]

This comes from a guy that built a WORKING Bit Heli, and a Nitro Tamiya Mini 4wd, all without taking a single picture.:question:

[oldtamiyaphile]

What do you mean by hardcore? It’s all pretty basic and logical stuff.

Fewer turns will result in:
Increased current draw
Increased power output
Higher peak RPM
Less torque

It should be noted that the difference between a 13 and 14 turn motor is more noticeable than the difference between an 16 and 17 turn motor. This is because the change in wire length becomes a greater percentage of the total length as turns decrease.

Fewer strands will result in:
more torque
more current draw (esp. bottom end)

More strands will result in:
Less torque (esp. bottom end)
smoother top end power
reduced current drain

[oldtamiyaphile]

Tin motors are labeled 130k rpm. Doesn’t mean they actually spin that fast, and if they did, they’d barely have the torque to move a car.

[oldtamiyaphile]

I think just pressing down on the car would work without burning your fingers!

[oldtamiyaphile]

You can take the balls out of the diff. Won’t slip anymore!

[oldtamiyaphile]

You’ll forgive my cough coughdon’tsupportcompaniesthatexpectyoutospendgoodmoneyoncrapcoughblackeye:

[oldtamiyaphile]

Quote:

-wharfies… did you know Aussie dock workers averagen $100k each??!?

Yes I do, what I would like to know is how do I land such a job?

Quote:

-transport… Oz is a huge place, we are still highly reliant on truckies. When you pay these guys $1+ a kilometer to move a bigrig… not cheap!

Even if it’s Sydney to Perth that’s $3000, or about $1 per unit. It all adds up of course.

BTW, Bits cost US$80 in Switzerland.

[oldtamiyaphile]

Holden will sell you a shell really cheap if you aren’t going to register it (something to do with ADR approval I guess).

The Hilliers build utes based on wagons, but the one I’m thinking of was a purely parts build, no body work. The builder was an engine man.

The $$ disappear when you have to pay $30+ an hour for labour, but DIY, well it’s all ‘free’.

And it seems WA isn’t getting the mag, at least not yet…

[oldtamiyaphile]

I got you beat, the coolest auction ever:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2454839870&category=26432

[oldtamiyaphile]

Same story as the NMT, which is a great truck once fixed.

[oldtamiyaphile]

You know HR/CDR motors are brushless, right? They can be very tricky to get to work.

Recently discused at WGu, with some links to experiments.

[oldtamiyaphile]

I want to see you try this at MRCC [:P}

[oldtamiyaphile]

One of the big Ford builders who’s name escapes me, built a V8 ute (before Ford sold them) entirely from new parts, so it probably isn’t that expensive. A complete body costs $8000, another $8k on an engine, so you’d have $14k to finish the rest of the car…

[oldtamiyaphile]

I’ve kinda given up, it’s quite a lot worse than a Z, generally, people who like them don’t have Z’s (hence the anti XM sentiment of Z folk). After a bit more use, it’s the famous problem of stuttery electronics 🙁 And for Aussies there’s the fact that you can’t get parts to consider. People who come from Bit/Zips, sure, they’ll like them.

My AWD XM can’t even hope to keep up with my +100 grams Z (stock just 100g of ballast – heavy body + big cells).

As I’ve said before, even with the resistor mod, radius is a joke and the only thing the XM is good for is drifting…if you have a spare room with hard floors.

Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 14 February 2004 16:07:18

[oldtamiyaphile]

I was wondering when this would happen. I was hoping for an LXX Mini-Z type deal and as the weeks go on, you’d get ball races a ball diff and so on. I think that would have been worth getting.

Don’t forget, you get free gifts! :p

Quote:

Despatch 1 – Stopwatch/FM Radio
Despatch 2 – T- Shirt
Despatch 3 – Toolkit
Despatch 4 – Diecast Subaru Impreza Model
Your first delivery comes with two magazines and your Stopwatch Radio.Thereafter,you will receive 4 magazines every 4 weeks along with the relevant free gifts.
Please allow up to 28 days for each delivery. You are free to cancel at any time, giving 28 days notice.

Who’s planning on getting the issue with the body? HEHE.

[oldtamiyaphile]

I like how the XC is ‘scale’ (IFS, live axle rear) and fairly dirt/water proof thanks to it’s guards.

I still think the TB-01s are the best rally cars ever.

[oldtamiyaphile]

Every electric car (within the same type – ie 2wd buggy or 4wd touring) is going to do that same speed with the same motor and rollout. Within a k or so anyway, that can be lost from (mostly) aero drag – take off the wing and get ~3km/h.

[oldtamiyaphile]

Well, this topic just keeps going.

Aaron, no real risk, I’d only order what I like, keep what I can’t sell 😀 I actually used to do something like that, not with R/C though.

Panda, I hardly buy anything from the LHS(s) anymore, because I just can’t justify their prices. Mostly, I buy large plastic kits, general supplies, mags, planes and Oz frequency radios (not much choice there) from the LHS. Most other things I can get 1/2 price or close to it, in a few cases, I can get stuff for 1/4 of the Oz price. I’d be more than happy to support local business more, but why should it come at my expense? But, that’s all another thread…

[oldtamiyaphile]

Tomy motors aren’t all that great, mostly because of a huge lack of torque, EM had the most torque, but you can’t get them anymore. I suspect it would outperform a fictional Tomy.

Regardless, all motors end up in the trash :smiley2:

Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 09 February 2004 20:52:46

[Author]

Posts