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Backyard tracks can be as simple or as complex as you like. Can be as easy as offering to mow the backyard lawn (this’ll get your parents REAL SUSS!) up to to bringing in a Huski skidsteer to do some earthmoving.

Use your imagination (ya kids still got one, right??). :blush:

Jumps can be as simple as a sheet of plywood with 2 legs nailed on to lift it up. (Ramp surface must be attached to the leg/prop otherwise it will just keep shifting everywhere.)

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Mr Toys? Hobbyrama?
Ahh, you folks must be from BNE. 🙂

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Quote:

i cant decide cn anyone name some good monstar/stadium trucks for under say 400-450

“Good”? Unfortunately they’re all pretty ok nowadays.

Dunno if you’re old enough to drink yet, but its a lot like
“good wine” these days, its just about IMPOSSIBLE to find any
that’s totally undrinkable. Just about everything is decent,
and the better ones ask more dough.

If you’re talking A$400 for car only… might suggest that
going second hand is probably a better bet. A good RC10 T3
could cost $600-750, but about $350-450 used in good condition.
This is a racing truck.

A 4WD monster truck usually starts at the $700 mark, new truck only.
Bit more for RTR ones with radio etc. Depends what you’re after.

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Quote:

yea well does anyone no of some good hop ups

What hopups you need depends on what you’re doing.
And on most new RC cars, you really don’t need much more.
What tyres you run depends entirely on where you race.

What hopups you “want” is an entirely different matter.
Feel free to add any shiny alloy bits etc etc, but most of these
don’t improve performance & just add weight. How big’s yer wallet?

As for brushless… me Xmas came a fortnight ago.
All I can say now is “wow”. 😀

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Yup! 240V is what Oz uses.

Note some countries use 220V, you’ve got a fair chance these will survive working on 240V without any problems.

Avoid plugging anything 110/120V into Oz mains. It WILL blow up, simple as that.

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VR-4? 🙂

Others might go by different login nicks but can
assure you that I – definitely – do – not. :D:D

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You need to revise your crash-avoidance reflex.

Next time HIT THE NEIGHBOUR. :):):)
They are soft, squishy & repair themselves.
(cheaper than buying spareparts)

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Building your RC car is part of the fun & well worth the experience. Take your time, read the instructions carefully and do it step by step.

If you’re inexperienced, its also a good idea to buy it from a local store rather than mailorder/online. That way you have someone who can help if you get into any difficulties. Some even ask you to bring the built car back to them for checkover before you run it, its a worthwhile service.

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Do a google search… or try

Rockhampton Radio Control Car Club

Brisbane Dirt Racing Inc Australia

Oz Club Racing

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Quote:

…curant limiters for useing aus. euro ect. wall jacks

NO! :shock::shock::shock:

All the “current limiters” in the world WILL NOT SAVE YOU. :dead:

UK/Oz household AC is 240V.
US plugpoints supply 110V.

You need something that can accept 240V. If you try plugging something
made for 110V into a 240V powerpoint, you’ll get expensive FIREWORKS. :evil::evil:

Need to find something with “dual voltage”, that can accept both 110V & 240V. Some things are automatic, the rest need a switch flicked to the correct voltage.

Don’t know how many RC AC chargers are dual voltage, probably not many. The only automatic one I know of is Novak’s “Black Box” AC adaptor for their line of DC chargers.

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Wonder if the Japanese know what an AMC Pacer looks like… :evil::evil:

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Save your $$$. 🙂

Just add the 2 capacitors together in parallel.
Piggyback the original one back on.
+ve to +ve, -ve to -ve.
You’ll double the capacitance.

The voltage spec is the “max” it can handle.
At anything below the max, it makes no difference.

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Costed me A$35 to EMS a A4 envelope to Singapore, arrived in 3 days. But still.. owww!

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PD:- hey, ya gotta just decide what kind of car you’re after.

competitive 2WD Racing Buggy? or RTR ‘sport’?

competitive Racing Stadium Truck? or RTR ‘sport’?

competitive 4WD electric buggy?

giant Monster Truck?

All-terrain truck like the Maxx?

real man’s 1/8th nitro buggy?

Maybe even a touring car or F1?? 🙂

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PD: it really depends on what you want from your RC car.

T-Maxx is a great backyard basher and it goes anywhere. Some places even race them, although
that’s mainly in USA. They are not an official
sanctioned racing scale.

ThunderQuake is a giant monster truck. Probably
doesn’t handle as well as a T-Maxx (lower CoG)
but it will run over more things.

New 2.5 engine in the Traxxas probably makes
enough power to put quite a few ‘sport’ 21s
to shame.

There’s also the Tamiya Terra Crusher. 🙂

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EMS is usually a bit faster for… my last box was posted Sat 19th and arrived here by Thurs 24th. Have had stuff posted Friday arriving Monday even. Pretty much “within the week”, EMS is worth it for urgent & valuable stuff (methinks less time in mail = less chance of loss).

Airmail usually takes 7-10 working days from HK, about the same from Japan. However from Macau its proven a bit longer… 2-3 wks.

Biggest pain is, it might cost you A$X to send EMS from HK to Oz… but if you ever have to send the *same* parcel pack the other way, OzPost usually comes to over 2x $X… AND asks for stupid IDing requirements. Bleh!!

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EMS (Speedpost) gives you a tracking number, SAL (Airmail) doesn’t. Just depends on how much peace of mind is worth to you – check both rates and work it out. Sometimes EMS might be 40-60% dearer, sometimes its only about 20% more depending on parcel size.

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Calm it, fellas.

Keep it G-rated, there are Kiddies reading. :angry:

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Quote:

…Yes he did buy the car kit for like AU$135

HobbyCo had a bargain special on those 6 mths ago.
They went quick!!! … even I missed out… :dead:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

1. Um, the Evo/414 suspension does fit TB-01 (aka TB-01 Long arm), and the TB-EVO was an evolution of the TB-01, and each evo builds on that. Notice that the guide book makes on mention of the EVOI or II? That’s because it’s a TB-01. It’s true that none of the parts are the same, but that doesn’t mean they’re not compatible.

Haha, if you’re willing to hack away at anything, there’s always a way to make things fit. Or use a Bigger Hammer!! 🙂

Original TB Evo is based around the TGR gearboxes. How many parts left are TB01? EvoII had a few improvements but shares the same basics. But EvoIII is a total redesign.

Stock TB01 runs pretty well, if built right.
TA04 works well even straight out of the box, even the tub ones.
Regular runner has been an 04PRO, hopped-up but mainly handling options only. Its a very adjustable chassis and you can set it up exactly how you like your car to handle.
EvoIII… wow.

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Aaron:- I sure hope AusMicro gets a decent cut for that plug… :blush::blush:

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Quote:

Also consider the TB-01, which optioned to TB EVO-3 spec (or you can get a EVO3 for $700), is the current ITC world champion. I’m definately getting one to replace my TC3 (which is already spoken for).

Sorry… just a few corrections to clarify here… :p

1) TB01 cannot be optioned up to become a EvoIII. The two share no common parts, so makes that impossible. Drivetrain is totally unique to e3; e3’s suspension is shared with TA04/414.

2) EvoIII did NOT win the IFMAR ISTC in Aug/02. EvoIII only came out later than that… the World Champ used a TRF414M belt-drive car.

3) In celebration, Tamiya sold a replica World Champs car called “TRF414M World Championship Replica”. There is also an updated chassis since then called the TRF414M2. All 414s are Tamiya’s “pro” level cars, and not usually found on the shelf of your local hobby shop.

4) World Champ Surikarn Chadyasuriya has since started driving the EvoIII too, and after winning the Thai Champs and the Yamayama Cup this year… there is (only just shipping) the red “EvoIII Surikarn Edition”.

I can’t stand all that red… :smiley16:

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Whereabouts are you peedee?
And which is your LHS?? 🙂

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Do not buy any AC chargers from USA. You’ll need to buy a 240-120V transformer, one which is powerful enough will be expensive and kills any hope of $avings.

Again, Aaron’s right.

That Arlec “housebrick” (no guesses why as to the nickname) is very reliable, pumps 3A into your nicads and never fails to peak detect.

Also pretty sturdy, the electronics are foolproof and the only sure way to kill the brick is to drop it off your table onto hardground. blackeye:

For ~$65, its great value – however I would not use it for NiMH.

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Aaron’s correct. :blush::blush:
(there, that saved a bit of typing)

TT01 is new entry level chassis.
Pricewise it should be about same as TL01.

Have not driven one yet, so no idea how it goes.
Internal gearing differs from TL01… so not
possible to compare speeds from out of box.
Layout is quite like TB01, but TB01 is probably
still better value with oil shocks etc.

A$300 for TT01 kit only is a tad dear. 😯
About A$250 is reasonable local street price.

Protoform/Proline Enzo body has been available
in Melb for many months now. Has nice decal for
the engine in rear window.

Note that Enzo body in 1/10 does not enjoy
much downforce. In 1:1, the Enzo creates its
downforce from the underbody pan aerodynamics.

Haha, anybody spot the Enzo in Charlies Angels II? 😀

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