PandaBear

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Hey hey – is that Steve from TradingDirect??

Abig welcome to you, matey!!

Yeah, we’re all been talking behind your back… :smiley3:

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I’m with you too G.

AustraliaPost isn’t too bad, their rates are reasonable. I’ve sent whole 1/10 cars interstate for less than $20… and have even gotten huge boxes of 500+ litres (imagine 2x wheelie bins!) thru the mail for less than $30. My local postoffice just *hates* me… :smiley9:

A$6-10 mailing for a full BCG kit is pretty decent I’d think, as if you were to drive 40-50kms to find one, that’s the same thing… but little parts do need rethinking. Lotsa options out there, and not shy to vote with my $$$.

But its a pity A&D @Ausmicro can’t do it anymore, since I’d be thinking with these same prices + shipping they’d be able to do better. I’d be first to admit their prices of before was pretty ‘generous’, market could probably bear a little more than that.

Then we’d be sure that every cent would be channelled back to this place. Otherwise I’d just keep looking for the cheapest place worldwide, delivered to my door.

[PandaBear]

hi hi! Welcome!!

Real Tomys (I don’t like clones) can cost you as little as $40, they’re sold as “Compact Char-G” in KMart, Target, Myers, TRU etc. (Usual RRP is $49.95 but I’m sure you’ll be ingenious enough to find a sale or special etc)

The car kit comes with 4 ‘medium’ tyres, which are pretty sticky.

There is a “drift” axle option available (its hard plastic rear tyres), but imho this a waste of $$. Hard plastic has too little grip and you’ll just do donuts.

You can spend a few bux to buy the Bit Racer tyre set (not the color BCG tyre set) which will give you several harder grades. You’ll be able to drift with the ‘medium’ Rears from the Racer set, leave your original fronts on.

if you don’t want to spend $$$ on tyres… you *could* always just wrap the rear tyres with some electrical tape. Does the same thing.. :smiley3:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by lancer_evo on 07November2002

um towerhobbies is a flat $6.99 s&h

Yeah, but only to *US* – d’uh!! And its up to $7.99 now too, check your facts.

Outside US, its “add $10” for Canada even… so that’s $17.99 minimum.

International orders are even more, depends on weight/size.

Hope they’ve improved their logistics lately too… On one ‘urgent’ TH order, I didn’t trust their $6.99, sopaid “2-day” extra $12 – I needed the parcel to arrive within 7 days at a US address. Even after paying $18.99… the parcel didn’t make it.

Compare that to our regular HK vendors… I have had boxes arrive within 2 days (order Fri, arrive Mon). Can’t complain with that!!

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Gomisan on 08November2002

i just got an Australian Compact CharG. (The Silver Honda)

I couldn’t see anything that mentioned the motor speed? The colour is Lime Green … so I’m wondering, is this the 1.6 motor i saw mentioned in the FAQ?

no, the 1.6 is an option-part only. It does not appear in any kit.

The Oz Compacts all come with b2.2s, it should be “fluoro yellow”. However I have noticed amongst my 2.2s some of them are a slightly different yellow. Performance-wise there isn’t any difference.

When the 1.6 turns up, its green is much darker ‘leaf green’; this is “greener” than the BCG’s nicad colour. :smiley9:

Quote:

Originally posted by Gomisan on 08November2002

(ohh and the control range seems terrible…. too close and it cuts in& out, a couple of meters and i have to run after it… i thought the Compacts didn’t have a limiting cap? Am i wrong?)

The silver S2k is 27Mhz… bad luck, we’re having the same probs with all our 27Mhz Compacts too – the range is nowhere near as good as the 40Mhz cars.

Even after some tuning I only get 5-6′ of reliable range, stutters to nothing by 8′. The 40Mhz cars (blue Skyline, yellow S2k) I can run to same distances even without the antenna up.

There is no cripple cap found on the Compact TXes.

[PandaBear]

I think you’ve damaged something in the rear end.

Take it apart, then check the chassis carefully for cracks… anything even broken off?

Sounds like your axle is bent too… see if you can straighten it back. Find something flat that’s 1cm wide (I use a little metal ruler) and roll the axle on it, you’ll soon see where its bent.

Also check your gears, there may be a broken or damaged tooth.

It is not a good idea to fall onto the floor, especially if its a tiled or hard floor. That 1m drop is like driving off a cliff 200m high in your 1:1!!

[PandaBear]

The idler gear (yes you are right on the spelling!) has nowhere to go. If you put it in correctly then it should be trapped between the axle and the chassis. It cannot fall out even if you remove the motor.

Have you double-checked your instructions?

In any case, I don’t see how anyone could put the idler gear wrongly, it just won’t fit in * your car would not work.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Genspec on 08November2002

Check that the uninsulated wires running from the Left and Right contacts do not touch any other uninsulated wires. These wires (L & R) go from the board to the coils in the front that control the steering.

Actually those wires *are* insulated – otherwise you’ll have a lot of fun winding the magnets without them shorting out.

Those fine copper wires are painted with clear lacquer, which is the insulator. If you need to resolder them for any reason, use sandpaper and sand the tips where you want to solder, otherwise the soldering won’t work.

Take care not to wreck them – those wires are finer than human hair.

[PandaBear]

Sigh… (1) first you say:

“the wheels are clod the gear boxes are clod that about all thats clod on it”[/quote]

now you say:

“um my truck isent a tamya theres no tamya parts on it” …[/quote]

then, (2) now you also say:

“as for my serpent. if you look at how they race them they race on black top with foam tires and no car is higher than 5mm”[/quote]

which I agree 100% with (as I raced Serpent too in a past life), but we all did read just a bit earlier when you *did* say:

“wanna see my serpent vector to and thats ben lowered 2 inchs for a race”[/quote]

sonow you’re gone from senseless to nonsense. :smiley5:

Could we all ask you to do us a Big Favour and KEEP YOUR STORY STRAIGHT?? Mainly because you’re getting me all confused!!!

Ok, the only pix we’ve been shown “The Ripper”, I can see:-

• standard Tamiya Clod tyres on BullHead chrome wheels
• two silvercan 540 motors (even a newbie could spot those)
• plastic Clod gearboxes, who knows what’s inside
• gearbox-mounted steering servo, fixed rear
• centre lowdown mounted battery
• custom cantilever chassis
• non-Tamiya bodyshell, looks like lexan

[/list]

Anything else I have missed? Fill us in please!

You sure no Tamiya in there at all?? For I think all guys the world over have decided – if you call it a “Clod” then we’d still call it a Tamiya, even though you’ve modified every part in the whole kit with enough leftovers to build your original ClodBuster.

As for “you dont know sh*t about trucks” heck I won’t disagree, I’m always open to learning more. That’s why I surf the web, I hang out at hobby shops, I lurk around the tracks. But I can only learn from ppl who can prove they actually know more than me, otherwise I’m happy to share what I already know.

[PandaBear]

Nah (and we’re waaay off topic)… 23cc petrol engines are already used in the big-muthas 1/5ths… they don’t actually give out that much power for the size/weight. They’re 4-stroke and they really purr nicely (no screaming like a crying baby) but the cars don’t look too fast because they’re so big.

We’ve got a huge track down here for the 1/5ths, but truthfully the 1/8ths which also run there will lap the place faster. But with 4WD, sponge tyres and 3hp 21 engines, you’d expect that too!!

At least with petrol… unleaded is only $1/litre Vs $15 for nitro.

OS Wankel is a glow engine… I hear someone put one in a SuperTen before. Guess there must be pix on the web somewhere, but can’t find them yet.

[PandaBear]

Kiddy slave labour? I think not.

Actually costs more to live Tokyo than it does New York. Wages are correspondingly higher too; you won’t see waitpersons paid a pittance US$4/hr over there in Kyushu. US workers get a real raw deal imho.

Besides, if you really own a Bit, why not flip it over and *discover* WHERE Tomy actually manufacture the things… (hint – its not Japan). Wow, we alllearn something new everyday.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Lazboy on 08November2002

Yeah i have noticed mabye americans have less morals that us down under

I had to returne my compact but at less all the bits were THERE althoght i was VERy tempted to keep the motor but honesty pay at least we wont be seeing lancer_evo in heven lol

Well, let’s not name names here…

I too have returned a BCG just the week before. Tempted to keep major bits, hell yeah… but actually doing it, no thanks -Leaves a real bad taste!!

Yeah I know they’ll just throw it away in the bin etc etc, but the principle is the main thing. Plus the store was good enough to swap it over even withmy 2 mths old receipt -no questions asked, didn’t even bother testing anything; longest part of the whole deal was having the salesgirl go dig for another BCG.

I don’t care as much about heaven as I do about how much shoplifting scums are costing the shops. Especially ones who go destroy the goods too – on purpose. If anyone didn’t hear the news… Winona Ryder just got convicted for Grand Theft!!

[PandaBear]

Hey fella – there’s KIDDIES IN THE AUDIENCE. Watch them foul words, fella, this is a G-rated Family site!

I dun need to swear -n- all, ‘cos I can just go play with them toys… eg:

Well, at least everyone can see I’m having fun with the things… not just jabbering on about them on some website.(think I better go change those BullHead flags too… “USA” gives it a bad name. Dun wan tat truk 2 be the next bin Laden target)
For someone who hates Tamiya so badly, you GOT one?? :smiley5:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Shypo on 07November2002

and what the hell is “caster oil” ITS CASTROL

Calm yourself, kiddo.

1) “Castrol” is the brand, with the red/green logo.

2) “castor” is actually a seed oil, a lot like canola. We use it in gas car fuel to lubricate the engine. Its been around for years, there are synthetic oils available now but none are as protective as castor for model engines.

Well, *some* of us here know the difference.

Or could just be a typo. :smiley2: I can’t spell it meself.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 07November2002

BTW pandabear i asked u about a kyosho motor and i cant find the topic it was in….can u remember?

heh heh, yeah, I just found it 2 mins ago. Its in the MiniZ bit… I replied there.

Gud on’ya, m8.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by lancer_evo on 07November2002

the wheels are clod the gear boxes are clod

I didn’t say the gearboxes aren’t Clod… :smiley3:only those *chrome* wheels.

Funny that, ‘cos my Tamiya Clod Buster comes with WHITE wheels from the factory.

I’ll give ya a hint… the Clod has a close cousin in crime.

[PandaBear]

Oh puh-leeze.

Kitty:- be my guest and whoop diz ass. Ladies first!

[PandaBear]

Jamie:- stock Grasshopper (I or II?) is a Mabuchi RS380, but any 540 size will bolt in too; think you might need some different screws, pinion and remove the 380’s cover plate on the gearbox too.

Not 100% sure as I’m not a big GH fan. I haven’t pulled 1 apart before, I only go straight for Hornets (no 380 in these).

The stock mechanical speed controller should be able to take the load, just don’t drive too slowly for too long – go play in a big place. A 14t-dub should give it some serious go though!!

btw, if you have a GHII then you’re in luck. You were asking for a new chassis, weren’t you? The chassis should be the same as the SuperHornet; I visited our LHS last weekend and they actually still have 1 spare chassis for SH… think they were asking A$25 or so.

If its not a GH2, then sorry – the GH1is totally different, even different front arms. It only looks similar, but not interchangeable.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by KittyKatSmack on 06November2002

He’s a member of http://www.toymods.com.au or org or whatever….

It’s a well known car.

Haha, 1st time I’ve seen it, maybe I should get OUT more… betta stop just playing with my little toy cars. :smiley9:

[PandaBear]

D’uh huh??

Why would we wanna do that?

(hint… maybe think about INTERNATIONAL POSTAGE costs)

Besides, there’s no mention *which shop* you quote from, so are we to assume that your corner 7-Eleven stocks Microsizer parts too?

[PandaBear]

Ya, doncha hear all your fans yelling that we ALL WANNA SEE your toys??? Go ahead, post ’em up, we’re all beggin’ ya.

Don’t wanna spoil your party, fella, but that “Ripper” truck isn’t even have a Clod’s kit wheels. Plus those 2 motors in the pix are definitely standard RS540SH donks, nowhere near Fantom/Cobalt/handwound.

As for lowering a Vector by 2″, yeah right. Sure, pull the other leg. (As likely as Schuey jacking his Ferrari up by 2-feet high to win the last GP.)

Who’s just been reading too many RC magazines?

You’re married, eh? Who would believe… or didya just borrow someone elses’ photo album site.

[PandaBear]

Too all who are too D’UH to comprehend…

Trading Direct is located in Australia and so all those prices & costs are in Australian dollars.

Capisce?

[PandaBear]

What’s a 1.40? As in 1.4cc or 1.4 cu-in?

If its 1.4cu-in, that’s about 20cc… that’s near weedwacker size and just a little bit too big to fit!!? Physically anyway…

Haha, I’m with ya – never possible to have “Enough” power!!

I love the OS Wankel engine too… one of these days I gotta go buy one for sourvenir. Its just too cool.

[PandaBear]

I wouldn’t hold your breath, Dan.

If that FTO is really one of “200”, then how come we haven’t seen any of the other 199 units in existence… hmm?

(oh yeah – tnx for the extra 3 bods too, got ’em fine. Starting now to dream up some paintschemes, some are in the stripper right now)

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by lancer_evo on 07November2002

and the midnight pumpkin did better wheelie than whild willy.

Well, maybe it does and maybe it doesn’t, hard to say – what’s your scientific criteria? (I personally find the Lunchbox/Pumpkin wheelie wheel is a little small and digs into the ground a bit too much.)

All I care is – they both draw a crowd whenever we run these thingsin public. I’m here wanting to promote RC to newcomers, the Willy is easy to drive even for beginners and pretty tough too. I have no worries lending it to newbies and kiddies at the park to play with.

You gonna post a few pix yourself n tell us how YOU bring newcomers to the hobby?? Or youse just gonna sit there recommending freshies to buy only top-$$$ gear and scaring ppl away from RC… you’re not doing the hobby any favours as Normal ppl have to pay money for stuff, not just nick it from a local store.

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