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Quote:

Originally posted by Shypo on 03January2003

white altezza here i come

Just buy the cheapest ‘ReadySet’ you can find, Dan – don’t worry about the body. You can get spare bodies very cheaply from about A$20 and if you’re gonna run the thing, you’ll be buying spare bodies pretty quickly too.

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Ok, me confused too.

Is THIS ONE RIGHT HERE the old one or the new one…!? 8)

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Wear-n-tear to the hooks and bumps (on car) is common.

I have a feeling the wear rate also has something to do with how one removes it after charging. There seems to be some improvement if you don’t just anyhow yank the car off, but instead tease it off nose-first.

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GT:- microwaves, radiowaves, lightwaves, soundwaves etc are *all* ElectroMagnetic Radiation… they only differ in Frequency.

:smiley2:

Handphones run at anywhere between 450-900-1800MHz. Antennas are tuned to intended frequencies, so it’ll be off by about a factor of 30 to 80.

Think 1:1 cars… the external mobile’s antenna is never the same length/design as the one for the FM radio (88-108MHz).

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Quote:

Originally posted by Shypo on 06January2003

…but the thing about clones whcih annoys me is people dont know how much better the real thing is …

Same drama with fake Rolex/Omega etc watches and fakeo Gucci/LouisVuitton gear… bad clones is worse becoz it can turn ppl off RC altogether.

:smiley6:

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Haha, cute!

Did it start life as an RX7?

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Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 10November2002

Okay i want to make areally fast bit and i want to use bit racer gears. Anybody know where i can get some?

Tomy Bit Racer = Hot Wheels K.I.T Racer; they’re easily available at your nearest KMart/Target etc. Found them at every 1 I’ve been to in the last 3 weeks, car kits are A$24.

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Too right – so they jolly should; I’m a CML shareholder!! :smiley9:

There’s even a huge difference between returning a faulty good and one that you’ve just “changed your mind” on… there’s no legal obligation even to refund on the latter, but the big stores do it just for customer satisfaction.

What I *don’t* get is, with all those losers who do the crime and get caught… sure we lock them up but in there they then get taxpayer-paid food & lodging, peace & quiet, cable TV, gym, videogames, videos etc etc… gee whiz, sounds a lot like paradise.

If not for the crim record, one might be real tempted into moving in. :smiley2:

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Quote:

Originally posted by Drift_Tiger on 08November2002

why isnt anyone into the mini z racers?? because of the price or performance or what…..??

It really depends on where you are… certainly MiniZ racing is big in some parts Oz, but not that active in others. Internationally, its huge in Hong Kong.

For an organiser, its easier to have stock races with a box stock MiniZ for beginners. With the HPI Micro RS4, its a lot less likely that all cars are built equal with the same gear.

Trouble with these baby cars are – the fans are all racing each other in their doublegarages, so its a lot less visible than screaming your nitro down the suburban street.

There’s a huge heap of bodies available for MiniZ, certainly the AE86 and RX7 are available as standard shells. (KittyKat… where are yoo??) Not hard to decal one up in the right tofu livery if you have some modelling skills.

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All:- hey, who here’s got the 1st order into Trading Direct?? :smiley3:Give us the true lowdown on how your experiences went — Hope its all good!!

Mr Evo:- we’re all still eagerly awaiting your pictures of all your whizbang wheels now that you say your digicam is all fixed. Please don’t just scan in magazine pix or giving us links other ppl’s webpix – that’s as cool as Joe Camel coughing.

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Quote:

Originally posted by daviej37 on 09November2002

if your just worried about the idler moving back and forth, turn the gear on the motor the other way around so the flat wall is on the outside, that’ll do the trick methinks:smiley14:

Yeah, some of the clones are built like this.

But you shouldn’t have to anyway, the axle is good enough to hold the idler gear on. When you change axle/gear combo, you don’t want to need taking out the motor too, just to release the idler gear.

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Quote:

Originally posted by siroompalot07 on 10November2002

…What on the circuit board acctivates the boost.

Impossible to say – Booster cars & the black controller are totally different inside compared to the previous Bits. There is no tacked on part to their circuitboards, its a whole new redesign.

Here’s a pix of the Booster Car… just compare it to your normal Bit and you’ll agree the PCB is totally different too.

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I usually get about 20-25 ‘standard’ charges before the alkalines drop to about 1.4V each. Time for fresh pair after that.

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Quote:

Originally posted by arabicryda on 10November2002

but them it wont rotate!!!!

The shaft does *not* rotate on the chassis. The idler gear only rotates on the shaft. Fix the shaft so that it cannot move left/right and there’s enough shaft for your idler gear to sit on, and you’ll be fixed.

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Quote:

Originally posted by leadhead2001 on 10November2002

help! I just bought a drift axel and the car seems to turn for no reason.

Welcome to Physics 101.

Drift axle removes just about all grip from your rear; everytime you steer the rear will breakaway. Anybody would know that the bit also bumpsteers each time you hit a bump, so that won’t help either. Your challenge is to keep the car going sideways, not doing donuts – nobody said it was easy.

Try putting the hardest tyres you have on the front. The hard Bit Racer ones are the hardest Tomy ones available.

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Quote:

Originally posted by GT-ahh on 10November2002

$30 US for 6 UV LEDs? ripoff. In aus they are $2.50retail which is ~$1.25 US

It *might* be possible… :smiley3:!!

There are some special LEDs made for “voltage”, not current. These have a little microchip inside (can be seen if you look closely) so you can connect them direct to a voltage source with infinite current (read 12V battery) without them blowing up, you don’t need resistors. Some also blink, or glow/pulse etc etc. They’re targetted at the ICE crowd so most of them run only on 12V DC.

Pricing on these aren’t cheap, they sell for A$5-10 each here in Oz even for the basic ones. Superbright & UV ones might be even dearer (as superbright ‘normal’ UVLEDs are already A$5-7 each).

ps: UV is bad for your eyes. You may be young and immortal now, but you may regret it bad when you get cataracts in 20 yrs time.

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Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 08November2002

NSX? 911? s2000? evo6? u joking?

Actually no… have got friends who chucked me keys to the 1st three. Quite fun they were too:-

• canary yellow NSX targa with tiptronic 3.0 – this was great in the Yarra Valley’s winding roads. Wow, an excellent highway cruiser – effortless overtaking!! Drives like a big Prelude,a little noisy in the cabin at high revs… I’m not gonna say what we saw on the speedo.
• white 996 cabrio – only had this in ‘cafe’ traffic and you would not believe how many “w**ker” stares we got, heh heh heh
• silver S2000- looks good on specs, but this is a real pain car to drive fast. There’s no power below 6000, and then it all comes in a rush -Its pretty dangerous in the wet. Did some excellent donuts…

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And I have a job that made us go out to inspect a newly grey-imported red Evo6.Who was I to refuse??? Highstrung turbo engine is not my style, interior looks just like a stock $20k Lancer with riceboy Recaros. Same shop had a used Veilside Supra with supposedly 500kW+ and windscreen stickers from some Jap drag… whatever. Don’t like carbonfibre dashes.

Another friend just took delivery of a new B4 last month. Nice wheels, but inside still just looks like any other leather’d Liberty.

Nah, I’ll just stick to RC. Its cheaper and safer!!

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Allow me, Aaron…

EVO:- if your hobby shop is interested in some OnLine advertising then by all means get the proprietor to contact Ausmicro re: commercial advertising rates. This site does not come for free and the dailytraffic bandwidth is substantial, all $$ income would be welcomed.

Short answer – no free advertising.

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Quote:

Originally posted by Gomisan on 08November2002

I’ll have to get some better motors anyway, but at least i know what is in it to start with.

This is where the *bad* news comes in, G.

Have tried the 2.6… it ain’t much better than the 2.2. When freerunning, it sounds like it revs higher… but Dragged it side-by-side (orange gear) and after about 8′ its only about 2″ ahead. Not much difference… get about the same result over 8′ as a 2.2 + higher gearing.

The torque on them seems to fall off pretty fast… haven’t even bothered unwrapping the 3.0 yet. Got no place big enough to use it.

The 1.6 might be handy for racing… 2.2 is too fast for my track. Yeah, slower is much better for laptimes.

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What decal paper did you find, Daniel? Any good?

I think what I’ve been using before (inkjet white film) for 1/10 is a little too stiff for the little Bit.

Starting to think I might have to paint it by hand, that’ll be a pain.

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koala Steve:- just visited the site again and wondering… how do I know what’s in stock and what’s not? Is everything that is pictured always in stock?

ta!

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Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 08November2002

Ohhhhh so today you own a supra rz? whats it gonna be tomorrow?

Just depends on what his dreams are of, tonight.I too tend to get funny dreams when I fall asleep in front of the TV whilst watching Fast & Furious…

What *I* find really intruiging is… ok, I have friends in both camps. Some like big V8s (boofy Ford/Holden fellas), the others like fancy riceboy Jap cars with their pssshaw turbos. Wierd thing is… You seldom get guys with nickname being “Evo” with a liking for big blocks. They’d usually be called “SHO” or “GTHO” or “352”, something along those lines.

Hey fella… just a hint. When/if you ever do find a woman to even dream of marry ya, take it from me that women aren’t dumb – they got enough brains to think for themselves what they wanna drive. Think differently at your own peril.

(Most of the time women don’t mind being chauffeured either, but mine dared enough to make me swop seats in the NSX and 911… but not whilst in the S2000 and Evo6. She got taste…)

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Red 1993 Mustang? This one?

So… are you CORY ROTH??

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Quote:

Originally posted by -ccw- on 08November2002

Hate to tell yoy but if you connect a diode the wrong way around for too long or at too high a voltage a diode will kill itself ( depends on what type of diode) have look in any electronics textbook.

oh yea, totally agree with you. If the voltage is too high across a reversed diode then funny things can happen too. Usual safe threshold depends on the LED, but usually <6V is pretty safe.

Circuits actually use some diodes in reverse for this special property (ie they don’t conduct up to certain voltage, then they conduct). They’re called zener diodes.

Quote:

Originally posted by -ccw- on 08November2002

and led a special diodes and when used with out a resister or current limiting device you can expect to see a led draw infanit current ie a short. the only reason most people get away with putting a led direct to a battery is that the voltage is faily low andd/or the internal resistance of the batery is hight enough to limit the current going into the led.

Yup, that’s definitely spot on the money too!

Little button cells won’t push out enough current to hurt a LED, especially if you put several in parallel. Anything capable of more current, like a nicad, you should have some resistor in line. What value of resistor – you need to work out given the voltage & intended current.

LED’s brightness is also proportionate to their colour and current – check their specs. More current = brighter… up to the max recommended limit.

Quote:

Originally posted by -ccw- on 08November2002

have fun

I have!! :smiley2:

Ever seen a LED blown up so bad, the top dome has flown off??! :smiley3:

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Nah, its not hard to find them under $45, just takes a bit of patience & luck.

I think my average is about $42; most of them bought at TRU in Sept when they had them for $44 incl 2 Energizers. Finding stock then was the hardest bit.

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