PandaBear

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Impreza on 04November2002

Be very careful with the spring, it tends to pop out on you. I would suggest doing what PandaBear suggest either over a large white sheet of paper or on a large flat surface. I almost lost a spring in the carpet when I first tried to re-glue a coil on one of my clones.

Ya- agree! (warning in ALLCAPS too!)

When you take the car apart, you can do some preventative medicine by using your soldering iron to melt down the spring post a little, so it cannot come off. Or just put a small drop of glue on the spring’s coil, same thing.

If you know you’re clumsy and hamfisted, just work inside a large transparent plastic bag. I’m not too bad and I’ve never (yet) managed to dislodge the spring; just be very careful.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by jrc2005 on 02November2002

I used to race 1:10 scale rc’s and we used to have a transponder clipped to thebonnetof each car in the race (upto 10). I wonder if the same thing could be achieved with the bitchar-gs? The 1:10 scale transponders were about the size of the bitcharg themselves, its worth pointing out.

I dont know exactly know howthe transponderswork but the main transponder receiver beeped when the leader had passed a set no. of laps, signally that he had won the race. It also recorded every lap time of every car on the track! most impressive.

Most if not all RC transponder systems are made by company called AMB. They’re also used in various forms of 1:1 motor racing, from gokarts upwards.

Transponder unit in the car (size of matchbox) contains a rechargeable battery and emits a radio signal. This signal is picked up by a wire loop on the startline and relayed to the processor box at race control. Processor then sends this data to the race control PC which does the rest of the data crunching.

Times are recorded to 1/100ths of second, and the system can be modified to suit the local racing styles. Usually its time (eg most laps in 4, 5 or 6 mins) or sometimes set # of laps for the final (more common for gas cars).

For your homegrown races… the AMB system is nice, but a bit pricey. The transponders would also be bigger than your BCG and double its weight. :smiley3:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by DaveF on 04November2002

A freind got one and his always drove off to the left. He found the spring inside was a little bent. he straigtened it with some long nose pliersand it runs dead straight now. Mind you, this doesn’t sound like your symptoms, so it’s probably not the same problem.

No, this is probably about right.

If you’re willing to muck about getting it right, take the front end apart (DON’T LOSE THE SPRING!!) make sure the steering is working properly.

If the white lever doesn’t give enough adjustment to help, you can also try padding the sides inside where the centering spring touches with tiny pieces of sellotape.

It does take a fair bit of time to get right… do you have the patience?

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by lancer_evo on 04November2002

i dont have this prob so ha ha but how i fixed mine was takeing out the crystal and putting in im my futaba 3pj then i just hit my menue on my remote and used the str. trim and fiwne tuned it. works kick ass only thing i had ta do was take the charger dock outta my con. and put it on my duratrax intellipeek pulse charger at the lowest setting but hey im useing 2 batts anyways. but you can pick up a remote for like $50.00 and with a few mods you can get it ta work just make shure it uses the same mhz. mine is a pcm so i can use it on any car as long as i have the crystal. remember fm wont work on these so get a am or a pcm

What the F@*K are you on about, thief? :smiley7:

This is the Bit CharG section!!!

re:- http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=3&TopicID=1291&PagePosition=1

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Impreza on 02November2002

Panda does that 350z have 2 speeds? drool…

Yeah it does… kicks ar$e on the racetrack. :smiley9: Can’t use boost except on the straight anyways, but the slow/stutter speed is cool for racing… just hang back and wait for the corner stacks (like I do in ‘real’ RC) then sneak through with some clean driving.

Boost is quite hard to use, like a ‘nitrous’ button on a videogame. Track is designed to penalise messy drivers (see other thread on ‘evil’ track dividers) so to get around fast you can’t bounce off the sides or cut any corners.

To be fair, Booster car shouldn’t been allowed to join in – its somehow (we dunno why) faster than normal cars using the same 2.2 motor!! I had even bought the kit for collection, not play… but got too tempted dug it out to use that night. Then again what could the others say… we needed another car/freq plus it was (1) my place and (2) my track! :smiley2: Heh heh heh…. its Good to be King!

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by lancer_evo on 03November2002

hey i got 3 extra bit bords and 3 crystals there 49mhx. you need ta be like me but um strip um and take um back 🙂

THIEF!!
:smiley7:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Chris_Flowers on 04November2002

I would sort of disagree with Caine and say the booster is no better then astandardBit Char-G at racing. Why? Let me explain how the booster works – it doesn’t actually give your car a boost like you would expect it to. For example, I would have expected that it would push your motor to the max for the boost, so if you were racing a 3.0 motor standard Bit against your 3.0 booster Bit – the booster should win – but thats not how it works. Instead, it lowers the RPM of your motor to a much slower speed e.g. put a 3.0 in a booster and it lowers it to 1.0 (approx) then when you press the boost button it knocks the RPM back up to max, which in this case is 3.0. Now this is good if your racing somebody who’s got a motor less then 3.0, but if they have a 3.0 or even a 2.6 at constant speed – they are gonna win the race unless you’ve got your finger constantly on the boost button – and whats the point in that? I’ve not tried a 1.0 motor in a booster machine but it must be dog slow without the boost button (as I said, it lowers the RPM of the motor)!

Umm… have you *raced* a Booster car, Chris?

With the button pressed, somehow the Booster 350Z runs faster than a standard car using same 2.2 motor & gearing.

Nobody knows why…

[PandaBear]

If its a once-off race… err, why not just have someone with a stopwatch? Surely you’re not sitting there alone playing with yourself?

You guys are just *desperate* for a reason to buy the thing, yeah?? :smiley4:

Trust me, I’m a gadget freak meself -I even bought a IR temp gun so I can test temperatures in my RC car… but I still cannot find a good use for the laptimer. Same thing exists for the Tamiya Mini4WD, I still can’t justify buying one even when the shops were selling it for 70% off. It does nothing worthwhile that I can see… still thinking of a plausibleexcuse.

[PandaBear]

Its the WRONG forum, Mitchy boy.

The buy/sell/wanted thread is NEXT DOOR.

[PandaBear]

If you wanna put large wheels at both ends, that’s an eventrickier job.

You need to (1) pull them off a spare axle, (2) drill them through accurately for the fixed axle and (3) replace them onto the front steering knuckles.

#2 & 3 are definitely very tricky operations!! Very hard to make it ‘roll’ properly on the front axles and trueness will be hard to maintain.

Its easier imho to glue front wheels onto the gear & rear axle, that’s only cutting and glueing – you don’t need it to spin freely & truly.

[PandaBear]

Hmm!

How big & heavy do they have to be, to be equivalent of the 50mAh cell?

And given they’re capacitors… they don’t need any special charging techniques right?? just hook it up to voltage.

Just imagine it… how about a BCG refilling station, with pads on the floor. Drive in, voltage is picked up via AFX brushes, drive out.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Shypo on 31October2002

that the blue GTR has a white spoiler

No prizes guessing where the shells came :smiley3:from, Dan… nor any mystery why the white wing. :smiley6:

[PandaBear]

Heh heh heh… Mr DAVIEJ37 scores the Pot!!!
:smiley10:
Yup, sure is… didn’t have anything better to do with a Bit Racer chassis so with a quick snipsnip of lexan to make a new front bumper/mount, a BCG shell fits right on to make our “dummy” car.

Dummy comes out during our racing to cause a moving obstruction… its aka “Melbourne Sunday driver”. It just cuts in always right in front of you, totally clueless where he’s going and causes accidents wherever he goes, makes other drivers swear at him… and thus the ‘dummy’ car was invented.
(I have since painted the front wheels silver to match… but kept the old pix to give you boys a fighting chance. :smiley2:)

[PandaBear]

I was dreaming of building a ‘figure 8’ with a central tunnel crossover… but because its on the floor and there is a chance someone would end up putting his/her weight on the tunnel, that got too hard.

Maybe for MkII… if I snaggle the dining table. But on that racing night, the folks-who-must-be-obeyed wanted to have dinner on it. Hah, who needs eating? :smiley2:

Other consideration is… the std Bit finds it hard to climb gradients. The most we can do is about 50cm of ramp to rise about 3″, otherwise you’re gonna get a lot of “marshall!” calls. (We had a marshall armed with a 1m stick.)

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 01November2002

With graphite lube, it is dry, so no dust or dirt, it has no drag, makes the motor rev higher, and you should be able to apply it once, and almost never have to re-apply it again.

If this is just graphite powder… be very careful. Sniffing in too much of the stuff is real bad for you, its like copier toner and all the old photocopier technicians often get emphysema (aka lung cancer) even the non-smokers.

I use teflon paint. Works better & can’t be wiped off as easily as graphite powder.

[PandaBear]

He’s up to -4 now…

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by DrSYK on 01November2002

…a member with a -2 rating …

err yeah… same guy who has bid & won auctions totalling US$113,000 in the past 2 weeks!! You think he’ll be paying up this time?? :smiley13:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 31October2002

hahahhahahahahaha…dont give osama any new ideas

I’m sure he’s already seen Minority Report on DVD; those ‘crawlers’ are spooky!! :smiley3:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 01November2002

then make everyone start with bog stock cars, and if they win races, they get credits so they can buy better motors and stuff

What’s bog stock? :smiley12:

If its Oz, then it’ll be 2.2s and medium tyres – even then its already waay to fast for the average track (~ size of a door?) and the tyres are too sticky.

Don’t think anyone wants to go and *buy* 1.0s just to make it slower… not when for the same $ you can get the 3.0.

[PandaBear]

Spot on, eagle eye.

Here’s a helicopter view of the whole thing, during our ‘snowstorm’ race.

We had idea of (1) “what if we drove a white car on the white track” and (2) “what if everyone drove the same white GTRs”… thus “SnowStorm”… whatta bunch of silly gits. :smiley4:Nothing else will improve your driving concentration like this… but it still got a bit tricky when overtaking and after every corner pileup!!

Oh, we *also* had a DUMMY car… another white GTR… which would mysteriously appear on the track at times (you see it there, parked in ‘pitlane’). Heh heh heh…

[PandaBear]

Well, you *could* build something like a tollbooth and each car has to pass through its specific lane, each with its own counter… but imho that’ll be too much of a pain to be worth doing. Remember Its only a laptimer – not a ‘lapcounter’. It won’t tell you how many laps over an elapsed period.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by honkhonk on 01November2002

have you done any other mods to try to improve the range? I wonder how much a telescopic antenna helps…

Not yet… have only had that one 27 for the past week. I bought a whole bunch of 27s but gave them all away to family & friends; had 1 left which I then built & turned out had a wonky TX charger. This one’s range wasn’t impressive compared to the 40 – so I had a go at tuning.

Went to exchange it last Sat, TRU gave me a whole brand new one, built it in an hour. Turned out same range, so had a go at tuning this one too withsame results.

The other guys with the 27s have had a go at extending the car antenna. Open the clear cover to trace the grey wire. Unknot and unravel it, that’ll give you about 5″ of wire to stand erect. For $0 & 5 mins’ work, this will improve your range to about 6-7′, however with that extra weight up top your handing becomes top-heavy dodgy.

A telescopic aerial might help, as I find the range is reduced when the antenna goes boing-boing-boing. Gotta stop it waggling…

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by hijukal on 01November2002

• How much did the rubber cost you (per 1m2?)?
• Where did you get it from?
• What did you use to cut it?

[/list]

Remember the old’thick’ mousepads? Yup, same stuff.

Real cheap. Probably about A$1 for a 1m strip x 1″. Cuts with anything – scissors, blade etc. Or if you’re really fancy you could get a special jigsaw for foamrubber. I was lazy and convinced the shop to do it for me, they have the special jigsaw…

You can buy ‘similar’ foam stuff in 1″ strips in different grades complete with self-adhesive backing at hardware stores. Dunno what they’re used for, probably surface protectors or something. Cost about $3-4/m.

Check out local rubber suppliers and hardware stores. They may even have offcuts you can grab for next to nothing.

Quote:

and lastly;

• What are you using for the track itself? I need something that is smooth, will lay flat, and stay flat when put on rather thick carpet.

[/list]

This is a hack track. :smiley9:Quik-n-dirty hacking!

Go ahead & laugh, but its virgin cardboard overlaid with thick A2 paper approx 120-150gsm. Used cardboard was a bit dodgy & lumpy so I cut up some brandnew big cartons instead. Cardboard was a bit dusty and left loose fibres so I glued the paper on top, keeps the tyres clean.

Total cost = 1 large gluestik.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by honkhonk on 01November2002

– pot mod on car (half done at the moment, need someone to help out to do it properly)

Hard to find a willing accomplice too, so I jammed the TX under a chair with the chairleg sitting on the ‘go’ button (Antenna left coiled). Car was 10′ away at this time, brought in slowly until the motor started running – approx 3′ from TX.

Adjusted the pot like focusing a camera (go back-n-forth around the sweetspot), moving away each time you’ve centred it on the tuned spot. I got to about 4.5′ away before tuning did nothing more.

With the Antenna UP, range improved to about 6′, up by about 1′ only.

That’s it, this weekend Mr 27 is going Under the Knife!! :smiley3:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by biggboy on 31October2002

YES IT IS!Its connected to the L3 resister which is conected to the antena track!

Well.. you can always try to discover what it does do… :smiley15:

You don’t have *remove* the item, just snip one of the legs and bend the thing a little bit out of the way. If it does nothing, then just bend it back and put a touch of solder to join the leg back up.

nb:- you’re 100% responsible for your own actions!!

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