PandaBear
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Quote:Originally posted by lancer_evo on 01November2002
… i bought another car from meijers riped out the charger deck and everything else i wanted and took it back …
That is called FRAUD and it is a CRIME in all places that I know of. Sh*thead f&ckwits who BREAK THE LAW like you ought to be SHOT and left to rot.
Thieving from shops only increase the prices for the *rest* of the people who are honest citizens earning an honest buck and spending only what they have.
What goes around comes around, sniper fodder.
Counter uses an infra-red beam which the car breaks each time it passes. You can only have 1 car on the track at a time, it cannot identify your car.
The PCB is usually labelled with L/R/F/R, at least the Bit ones. Can’t help you more specifically on clones, there’s too many variations. Common sense would say the contacts are usually close by, on the edge.
Haha, what about we all pool our pocketmonies and buy the whole lot; then we resell them in Oz?? 😉 Only US$6 = A$11 each!!
Haha:- 2000 cars nose-to-tail would be about 10m long!!
How about you lay them all down in a square, put a board over them and then sit on the board… probably be strong enough to hold your weight and carry you along!!
But… if you were to spend 60 secs charging each car individually, it’ll take you… 33+ hrs…!! :smiley11:
Quote:Originally posted by lilgtr on 31October2002my cousins got a tamtech, are these the same as Mini-Z..?? i know that the tamtech’s are quite old too..
Believe me, the old Tamiya Tamtech is far superior to a MiniZ… they go much faster out of box (no one ever needs to hop these up!!), they have better grip with sponge tyres and they look just as good – excellent usual Tamiya quality. They also came in 2 forms: sportscar (testarossa, 961 etc) and Lemans (962, BMW, Ford etc).
Only slight problem with them being 20 years old and discontinued – a bit hard to find spareparts. And since they’ve become collectors’ item, they’re not cheap to buy secondhand either.
Scafy, huh? :smiley10:
Personally I wouldn’t bother with the 2.6…. sure it revs to a higher pitch when running free, but once installed it doesn’t seem to make much more speed over the 2.2 with orange gears. Couldn’t outdrag a 2.2 anyway.
Quote:Originally posted by ExAreSix on 29October2002Yeah, but then they go BACK to Melbourne. Must be pretty bad if they go back to Melbourne… :smiley2:
Some of us have to *work*, unfortunately…
Quote:Originally posted by Derek on 28October2002PandaBear – what size were the servos in those things? Remember what they were called? Would like some pix from inside….
Derek:- the Kyosho Mini Optima/Ultima was designed to use standard radio gear, you can fit a miniservo to steer it. However you also had to get battery, RX and ESC under there – can get micro ESCs like the ones designed by Sanwa and Futaba for Kyosho’s motorbikes.
Some ppl also modified the car to take Tamiya Tamtech CPR (RX+ESC in1) which comes with its own ear-less little servo; the Tampack battery also fits. Interestingly its all directly plug-in – all the plugs are the same! More curiously, the HPI MicroRS4 also uses the same battery & motor plugs.
Well – Silver has the best technical conductivity, but most wires you’ll find are copper.
Quote:Originally posted by z-beam on 23October2002although the voltage is important the milliamperage (mAh) is the factor to be carefull of. some ni-cads at dickies give 1200 mAh and that is a problem if your still powering your bits on single ni-cad (standard) batteries UNLESS you used energiz%r max or ultra d%racells on the first charge. some thing about cell memory and limitations. the % batteries run at 800mAh supposedly.
Huh? :smiley5:Sorry, you aren’t making sense.
Capacity of the AAs don’t make much difference to charging, apart from how many charges you can make before they’re flat. Voltage however, does affect how fast the car charges and the end-voltage of charging.
Rechargeables (nickel+metal) are chemically defined 1.2V; whilst carbon-zincs are 1.5V. Lithiums are usually 3V per cell but with a different metal electrode, they can be made to ~1.6V. Nicad AAs go up to ~1000mAh whilst NiMH are 1800-1900 nowadays.
Generally you’ll find that alkalines will last longer than even NiMH. Lithiums last even longer but they’re still more expensive than the equivalent multiple of alkalines.
Quote:Originally posted by biggboy on 30October2002HI! Ive got a G-04 45MHZ skyline and ive just taken cotroller apart and found no cripple cap?but did finda cap with number 8 just behind L3 and and in front of c4 by the tx chip!Is this anything???Cheers
Hard to say.
Is it connected anywhere to anything near the antenna track?
Nup, its crap. You don’t need RC for KIT racing… its a channel track like Mini4WD – do you wanna put guide rollers on your Bit? If so just buy Tamiya’s new “RC Mini4WD” where you can control the speed… smells like ‘slotcar’ to me.
In terms of “value”:- why would you spend $70 to just get 1 lousy 2.6 motor, 1 battery, 3 odd axles, 3prs not-very-useful tyres. I had a close look at it all last week, and thought it a waste of $$.
Perth got a KMart or TRU?? :smiley9:
Tamtech was discontinued 10+ yrs ago now, so its a collectors’ item and current going prices will astound you… :smiley3:spareparts are rarer still.
Heh heh… maybe check the INSURANCE COST of your turbo mobile before dreaming anymore… might scare you off it. Did the job for me…
Traditionally capacitors aren’t really much good at passing current… sure you can charge it up quick and to high voltages, but the current is dumped pretty quickly too. Can get huge 1F (=1000000000uF) ones the size of 1L carton of milk for your car stereo, but they’ve got barely enough power to turn a electric motor.
Plus the Voltage is directly proportional to the charge level… :smiley6:
:smiley4: BLUE R34 OWNERS UNITE oh yeah!!
The other possible fault could be related to how hard you press the buttons. I’ve seen examples where the guy has pressed so hard, its bent the PCB and cracked the case where the 2 board screws secure it. Can’t be too good for the board…
Quote:Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 29October2002and seems to have a high resistance contact, so if i press Xtra hard my car turns tighter circles (only when turning left)
Oh ya, I must have forgetten to mention…squirt some electrical contact cleaner spray into the buttons and that’ll fix it quick. Spray it between the round button and the chromed surround.
This is special ‘nil residue’ contact cleaner (aka RC Motor Spray); don’t use WD40 or any stuff that leaves a layer of oil everywhere.
Would capacitors really have enough capacity to run electric motors?
Otherwise the other way is lithium polymer “bag” batteries… tinfoil bag can be squished into any shape you want. They’re used in new mobiles these days, but they do need sophisticated charging techniques.
Racing primemover?
Or a mockup for a new Optimus Prime – I have no idea what the new Transformers look like now.
Dunno… might have something to do with the fuel you use too. When we played with 49s some 25+ yrs ago, the Cox fuel as sold in little cans was waaay too expensive so we used pure acetone. Worked well, don’t remember any starting problems.
Smaller engines will always be more problematic as you’ll have even smaller tolerances, plus its need to maintain heat and compression.
Quote:Originally posted by biggboy on 28October2002But do they stock these micro switches?
Dunno, I don’t live in Kiwiland… :smiley3:
Quote:Originally posted by BigKid on 29October2002A Blue Skyline GTR 40 MHz and a White Skyline GTR 27MHz.
Same with you here, I’ve bought nearly 10 local Oz cars in both freqs and always the range on the 27s is noticeably less – so much so that the 27s had range problems on our track. I have no trouble with the 40 cars.
There is no visible cripplecap on any Oz TX nor car.
Last weekend tried to tune the car, but improvement is not significant. We’re talking going from about 4′ to 5′.
Your best bet is to always keep fresh AAs in the TX. An extension on the TX antenna might make some improvement, but wouldn’t be much.
Quote:Originally posted by Lazboy on 28October2002Instead of swaping therims why not just swap the whole wheel and the plastic turning thingies with anther set
Yay – I was waiting from someone with a bit of common sense..!! :smiley10:
Definitely, if you’re only swapping wheels between BCGs, then just swap the whole steering knuckle assembly – it’ll take you less than 1 min.
Pulling the axles out will invariably damage something, you’ll never be able to secure it like new again, something will be out of kilter somewhere. Its the only choice if you wanna put non-BCG hoops on, but if you’re just only swapping BCG wheels then that’s pretty silly.
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